Carby Keihin carb clone

Steve:
Jennings, in that paper, said that 16:1 gave the best power and protection. I think you quoted the wrong paper to back up your belief.

You missed the point.
I'm not using a paper to back up any sort of "belief".
I used it as a starting point for learning.

Gordon Jennings is a brilliant and thorough writer and researcher.
He explains his thought process, his reasons, what he did and what he found.
I absolutely believe him that if I want maximum power in a 1970s Suzuki 250 on castor oil, more is better.
Are we in the same place with our China Girls?

I laid out my thoughts, what I did, what I found, and the conclusions I drew from the results.
We need to do more of that, rather than just relying on old paper. Facta, non verba, you know?

Many of your webpages do exactly that:
Lay out the reference material, what you did, and the conclusions you drew from your results.
I am very grateful for the work you have done there.

Steve
 
I see your point but don't think it's wise to discard his findings just because your 2 stroke is not exactly the same as the one he used for testing.
Some findings are universal in their application.
 
Dude i have same sluggish problem with carb. Final conclusion. Not enough air. Havent adjusted but try this. Shut the fuel line off then run it for a minute. Keep running it and just wait. It will top end out. Awesome
Also wanted to ask you about that little hose coming from the bottom you have it pluged in the side by the fuel intake at first thought thats what i thought i was supposed to do so i just let it hang but are you supposed yo plug it in the shaft by the fuel intake?
 
Oh yea. Hahaha. Want a quick ride. Get you a can of whipped cream. Put a filter on a hose and run hose from can to air intake. Get it maxed out in rpms and hit the valve on whipped cream can making sure its upright. Pure NOS and dirt cheap. Hahahaaaa
Also wanted to ask you about that little hose coming from the bottom you have it pluged in the side by the fuel intake at first thought thats what i thought i was supposed to do so i just let it hang but are you supposed yo plug it in the shaft by the fuel intake?
 
I made a thread more vague about this so I'm making a new, more specific post.
So I'm looking for anyone that has used one of these clones with any info they can provide. Mainly I'm looking for jets for it and like tunning advice for the dang thing. Here are a couple pics to show what it looks like and show what markings are on it.
Do search gt 80 jets then kings motor or has bike.net but if you search site it will only show up nt jets why I know? Just do general search. Good luck mine keeps revving even when you let off gas waiting for smaller you get slow and mains 24.99. brilliance011@hotmail.com
 
Also wanted to ask you about that little hose coming from the bottom you have it pluged in the side by the fuel intake at first thought thats what i thought i was supposed to do so i just let it hang but are you supposed yo plug it in the shaft by the fuel intake?
No one is vent and is over flow you even need to use if you plug them or hook them together motor cause it needs vent to allow gas to enter carb
 
I made a thread more vague about this so I'm making a new, more specific post.
So I'm looking for anyone that has used one of these clones with any info they can provide. Mainly I'm looking for jets for it and like tunning advice for the dang thing. Here are a couple pics to show what it looks like and show what markings are on it.
Russ says: I may be too late to get in on this discussion, but here's what I found. I have the GT 80 racing engine with the keihn carb clone from gasbike.net. I operate at 7000 feet altutude +- 2000 feet. My motor pulls 15% grades with a 56 tooth rear sprocket. The main jet is 62 and the slow jet 52. Jets from jetsrus from the N424-24 listing. The motor four strokes from idle up to about two thirds throttle, then...when going up a steep grade with wide open throttle, the engine "sings", just like a 2 stroke should. I've tried smaller slow jets (50, 48, 45,40) and the engine "sings" at the lower RPM's, but bogs down from too lean a mixture a wide open throttle. So, I have a needle problem, but cannot find anyone who sells the 42.11mm needle (length L1 as measured from the top ring to the tip), and also I must step up to a larger main jet if I find a needle. I think this present state is the best I can do with this Keihin clone. I'll just put up with the lower RPM four stroking and be satisfied that I can climb most mountain roads here in the Eastern Sierra. However I'm experimenting with the Walbro HDA 48D 502 carb. My chain saws use the walbro carb and they really work well at this altitude. These carbs have adjustable jets. They require a pulse line from the engine crankcase to the diaphram in the carb, and neither the engine nor this carb have pulse line connections. But I'm closing in on solutions.
 
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the walbro are a far easier carb to use and adjust. whilst genuine keihins (and mikunis) have plenty of alternative jets and needles, the clones are always suspect regards needle tapers, lengths, sizes of needle jets, etc etc. and finding proper matches can be a nightmare. noone wants to help once they discover you have a non-genuine clone carb.

a lathe would help, but trying to machine something as accurate as a needle is bordering on the impossible without some pretty dedicated tooling. steady rests, etc. i believe theyre normally ground on a centreless grinder designed specifically for the job at hand...grinding tapers. all they have to do is set the grinder up. all you have to do, on the other hand, is try to turn a varying taper to micron tolerances and know exactly how much taper is required at each point along the needle... ouch. sure, you can turn the taper with a tool, but then you have to polish out the marks left in it, and simply doing that changes everything. no point trying to modify an existing needles, as all you can do is remove material rather than add it...

back to the walbros. its pretty easy to drill into the crankcase and fit a nipple for a pulse line.

in my experience, most (not all of them)chainsaw carbs have the diaphgram cover plate fitted with a nipple, whereas most brushcutter/hedge trimmer types use an internal pulse line feeding through the intake manifold. its a pretty simple matter to block off the internal pulse line and simply drill and tap for a nipple in the cover plate. tear them apart and you soon see that the pulse line in either case works in exactly the same area, and some of the internal types even have the marks on the covers that coincide with the nipples as used on the external types...

it is possible to try and drill the pulse line into the cylinder itself and use a standard (walbro) manifold, but just fitting a pulse line is far easier. remember to use some type of insulator between carb and engine, there is a reason all walbro carbs are fitted on those "plastic" manifolds. a nylon adaptor plate between carb and (steel)manifold, some aluminium and a nrubber hose,whatever, as long as the carb body is insulated from the engine itself.

best nipples are the tiny ones used on nitro RC fuel systems... you arent after flow, just a pulse.

use the butterfly type carbs, the rotary barrel ones usually do not have adjustable lo jets(some do). and while the shindaiwa brushcutters tend to use slide carbs, i havent seen any other size yet... though i have butterfly walbros ranging from 10mm to 24mm.

engines that run "zama" carbs usually have carb issues. i dont like zama carbs.
 
Great post Headsmess.
I alter my needles by either chucking them in the drill press (don't have a lathe) and emery paper them or I file a flat on them.
 
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