"no-name" 49cc 2-stroke scooter engine

[augidog]

thanks for that, but it no longer matters.

while i was cleaning the engine, i noticed a bad crank-bearing seal (some of the rubber on one side isn't seated) and definite leakage.

after knowing better but trying again...after 4 months of work, hundreds of dollars, 2 used versions & now this new one...i'm finished with engines of certain origin. even with good customer support, no way i'll ever be able to rely on one long-term.

this one's for sale as-is, best offer plus actual usps postage.

augidog@netzero.com

 

[loquin]

A resistor will also use up part of the lower voltage, too.

Suppose you have a 25 watt bulb, and you want to limit the voltage to it to 12 volts when you're revving the motor. (A current of apx. 2.1 A is needed, and a resistor value would need to be (30-12) volts * 2.1 A, or 38 ohms.) But, when you're idling, and only producing 7 volts with the generator, (assuming the same bulb resistance,) the 38 ohm resistor would drop the 7 volts to 2.8 volts at the bulb...

Those voltage regulators are used in conjunction with a 12V SLA battery. If you have a small 12V SLA battery on the output of the regulator, it should provide adequate regulation to keep you from blowing your bulbs, and, the battery would power the lights better when you're idling.

If you don't want to add a small 12V battery, you'll need a regulator circuit. A 3 amp, 12 volt (36W) regulator circuit is what you're after. Now, 12 regulators are available as a single, 3-pin IC, but, they aren't commonly available with output currents over 2 amps. To get three amps (or greater) take a look at the attached pic: the parts are available at radio shack.

Edit: Well... THAT stinks, augi. Had started this post before lunch, then got called away. I'm leaving it up, in case someone else is looking at voltage regulation.​

 

[Pirate88179]

Loquin:

Excellent post! That is exactly what is needed. A battery to take up the slack and absorb the higher voltage from high rpms.

Later, once I get some money and get up and running, I want to add some lights and I will use leds (ultrabrights) and add a joule thief circuit. I have modified most of my flashlights with these cool little circuits and instead of needing 3 AA bats, it will run for weeks on a single AA bat. I have run up to 400 leds off of a single AA battery. (I have many videos posted on Youtube using this same screen name as here showing some of my experiments)

I am glad I ordered the motor without the starter/generator.

Again, excellent post.


Augidog:

I am sorry to hear that too. Gee, I hope my motor is in better condition. I have not started it yet, still waiting on being able to order the drive kit.

Bill

 

[spoom]

y'all know how i feel about honesty in specs...i took advantage of the open exhaust port & confirmed a 44mm bore w/depth-gauge, which makes the engine 49cc.

I'm very pleased to hear this!

43cc engine = 40mm bore, 34mm stroke
"49"cc engine = 44mm bore, 34mm stroke

http://www.bgsoflex.com/displacement.html

43cc engine = 42.7cc
"49cc" engine = 51.7cc

 

[Porkchop]

That engine looks a lot like the ones from Harbor Freight. Check out the photo I've attached of the ID label from my HF engine. Check yours and see if it's the same manufacturer. I'd be surprised to find that any Mitsubishis are made in China. It might be a Chinese clone of the Mitsubishi.
My engine has only about 150 miles on it, so I can't speak in terms of longevity. My engine came off a Harbor Freight Auger. They have the same engine on a Gasoline water pump as well. Parts from HF are very inexpensive. But the draw back is 6-8 weeks delivery time. I ordered back up parts for my engine on June 5th and received them today. To give you an example of cost, whole clutch assemblely $2.34, fuel tank $2.35, complete recoil starter assembley $4.00 I ordered 4 clutches, 2 starters and some other odds and ends. Shipping was only like $4.00. I currently have a Honda GX35 on my bikemotorparts friction drive set up. I'm going to swap back to the Harbor Freight 2 stroke tonight or tomorrow. The HF engine will run circles around the Honda. Bottom and top end. Hope this helps in some way. One more thing, I've never seen that engine from Harbor Freight with an electric starter. I think the rest of it might be the same though.

 

[spoom]

Mine didn't come with a sticker on the engine cover. I would be surprised to learn that the engines were NOT identical. Harbor Freight, Monster Scooter Parts, and various scooter manufacturers probably source these engines from the same places in China.

I haven't installed mine yet, but I hope to get around to it this weekend. So far I've managed to put some rubber spacers between some of the fins (I'm looking forward to see if this makes a difference on this engine,) painted the engine cover black with vinyl dye, swapped over the X-port/muffler, and swapped over the velocity stack/filter:

 

[thescooterguy]

tell me what the rubber spacers will do ? and a little off subject but wow! check this frame out i need one of these
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DBfJl-YJgNY

 

[moondog]

Interesting thread.

I see you can buy starters here and other places.

http://www.partsforscooters.com/Electric-Starter_2?sc=9&category=54

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...370235313869&viewitem=&_trkparms=tab=Watching

Has anyone one put one on a Mitsubishi motor like a TLE 33 ?

Also, has anyone mounted one of these starters on a friction drive kit on the right side ? It wouldn't be much use as a starter but it would charge a battery to run lights.

Thanks

 

[thescooterguy]

total rebuild

if the motor you have didn't come with the eastar , then its a total rebuild . the crank with the estart has inner threads , for the powl the pull start only has outy threads . you have to replace the crank to

 

[augidog]

we used spacers on the HT's fins and it reduced the "ringing"

i got my replacement parts from "monster..." and learned a lot...the new muffler which is offered in their parts section, while visually similar to the one that came on the engine, is obviously larger and better-made. i bet if someone bought every part individually they'd be able to build a nice "version" of this engine.

pair that with spoom's (emissions labeling) info, & i can deduce that this engine is produced & sold under the same conditions as the HT & other chinese engines, many sources most unnamed, broad spectrum in quality, some certifications legit others bogus.

so...mine's for sale cheap, new but needs work...see "buy/sell/trade"