Noob with a frame candidtae question

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by mogogear, Feb 28, 2015.

  1. mogogear

    mogogear Member

    Justjoined and a Noob question regarding a bike type to make motorized. I found a Trek "Woody" with the spring-type old style front suspension. It is aluminum framed. $100

    What i most want to avoid is grabbing a relatively cheap donor bike to add a motor to and find out it is not at all an easy conversion.

    Does any one have any experience with this frame? The weird hump for me mentally to overcome is matching FRAME- To - ENGINE - buying them separately, and installing with little to less major issues. Also with an aluminum frame - simple welding to overcome small things becomes a bigger issue for me. The front down tube is fatter and dont want attachement problems with the front engine clamp.

    Thanks for helping a noob like myself sniffing after this project in Portland!

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Feb 28, 2015

  2. darwin

    darwin Well-Known Member

    Welcome to the forum. Tubes look thick in the pic. Hey that rhymes I should copy write that. With some fabrication folks on here have managed to make a lot of stuff work. There's even bigger brackets you can buy if we're talkin HTs.
  3. mogogear

    mogogear Member

    Thanks- yep getting used to forum terminology, but yes a HT motor will be added. Thanks. Still getting some info from the seller regarding frame size. But the style, suspension in front and a sprung seat helps. $100 aint too bad

    Lots of decals...:ack2:
  4. darwin

    darwin Well-Known Member

    Your going to need a front v brake for safety.
  5. mogogear

    mogogear Member

    yup....I like stopping- always happy to hear good advice
  6. bikejock

    bikejock Member

    I had the same questions about motorized bikes when I joined this forum. If you wanna go with a 4 stroke kit which are now legal pretty much everywhere compared to those 2 strokes, your frame should be 8 inches wide at most where the motor would mount and at least 9 1/2 inches from the bottom of where your mount would go to the top of the frame where the engine would sit. A typical HS 49cc 4 stroke engine is 10 (11 with the mount) inches from it's base to the top and around 7 or 8 inches wide from carburetor to exhaust. If you want a 4 stroke try to make a frame template out of cardboard that's 8 inches wide and 9 1/2 inches tall and place it in your frame to see if it would fit. If it don't fit in the frame then you could try a rear rack mounting option but that would mean sacrificing your rear rack.

    P.S. I'm still technically a bit of a noob to as I have yet to acquire a motorized bike kit. I'm saving up for a Grubee 4 stroke kit tho. I have some experience with 2 stroke kits because I put one together back before they were outlawed in my state. It was a lemon of a kit so I sold it for parts to some guy on craigslist. Also check out YouTube. There's lots of how to videos about motorizing bikes.
    mogogear likes this.
  7. KCvale

    KCvale Motorized Bicycle Vendor

    mogogear likes this.
  8. mogogear

    mogogear Member

    Well the Trek was sold before I could get there. But I snagged a similar one for $90. Some olive paint, a front brake, wheel work , and HT engine kit, Blah , Blah , Bah. Off I go!!

  9. bikejock

    bikejock Member

    I actually like that bike better than that Trek you almost got. Your size limits are probably going to be 2 strokes but if you can get a shop to cut that tube in the middle of the frame you might even be able to fit a 4 stroke. I like the looks of that bike tho. Nice lines and pretty sweet fenders and wheels. I like the red rims. The springer fork is pretty cool to. What's the make and name of that bike?
  10. mogogear

    mogogear Member

    Thanks- I will just be headed towards a 2 cycle HT motor. So no frame cutting. It is a "generic" bike - The wheels say "Motiv, " the name on the bike is "The Realm" -

    Wide enough at the dropouts, fenders, at least a comfy seat, front suspension. I am sure there will be lost on the recommendations check list I have seen that will need to happen.

    Add front brake ( maybe an extra rear one too)
    Zippy the spokes- re-grease the bearings
    Re-Paint the frame
    Re-work the fenders for some left side clearance
    Lay back the to of the seat post
    a rear rack
    maybe sweep the handle bars a bit
    Upgrade tires, add thicker liners, slime or PP tubes
    Like to add F& R lighting ( I am in a "bike" town and being seen more is how I want to roll)
    Maybe even figure out a brake light??
    Twin leg stand
    Then all the engine stuff.......and that alone is a list. Lots to study and learn about

    Slowly but surely
  11. bikejock

    bikejock Member

    I gotta do those things with my bike to. I gotta bend my rear fender a little to aid in chain clearance so the 415 chain isn't banging against my rear fender. My bike has a 24X3 rear tire and the fender is made to match up with that tire size which could cause chain clearance problems. My rear fender is at least 3 inches or slightly over 3 inches.

    I found a turn signal set up I might get for a little over $30 on amazon. For a break light, you could attach one to a break lever so the circuit to the break light is closed when ever you pull on the break lever activating the break light. I've thought about doing this for my bike. I believe some companies make break levers for break lights used on motorcycles that often could fit on bicycles to.

    I'm also trying to find a way to make a disk break compatible for the front. For that I would need an 18 hole front disk break hub (still trying to find one) and a fork that can support the clappers for the disk break. I might try drilling 2 holes in the fork to make them disk break compatible so I can mount the clapper. Front breaks (preferably disk breaks) are important when it comes to motorized bikes.
  12. mogogear

    mogogear Member

    Thanks!! You might want to rethink drilling the front forks.
    GAIN= mounting place for disk set up
    LOSE= fork strength

    You might just try to find a compatible used fork that can do what you want it to. I am a noob and I may not be the best person to give you advice though.

    Stopping is critical- so are unbending forks...

    Your suggestion just makes my spidey sense tingle :ack2:

    Good luck
  13. bikejock

    bikejock Member

    My front fork is pretty sturdy. Two holes for the break clapper shouldn't come to any strength loss. It's a triple tree fork and they are usually built pretty well. It's also a Taiwan made bike from a local bike shop so it's pretty good quality over all. I'm using a red GT Dyno Deuce for my build. Bought it from Craigslist a few weeks ago. Always wanted one when I was growing up so I'm glad I found one. Payed $250 for it. They used to sell for $400 new ten or so years ago.
    Last edited: Mar 3, 2015
  14. bikejock

    bikejock Member

    I recently got an M Wave adjustable universal rear rack for my Dyno Deuce. It has no holes for the stays in the frame so I needed one that attaches to the frame without drilling into anything. Got it on amazon last week for around $30. It looks good on cruisers and fits damn near anything. Also fits just about any type of bike bags or saddle bags that have Velcro straps. It's also got a bracket in the rear I'm going to try modifying to fit a scooter turn signal, break light, license plate set up. Here's what it looks like:

    rear rack.jpg
    Last edited: Mar 9, 2015