Okay, this thing is now dangerous!

[KCvale]

When the bearings are all fine a cheap (one sided action) cable disc will still often "bind up" a bit anyway.
It is not a major problem unless/until you have tried something better!

Good point, heck just cable routing can cause issures.

As for the type of brake system, I will take cable disc brakes over hydraulic disc brakes any day!
Hydraulic is difficult to work with, more expensive, yet provides no performance gain for our MB's stopping ability, just hassle.

I like to keep my builds 'clean looking' and 90% of that is just good cabling.

Other than the throttle cable (it has fitting one each end) what you see with a black cable is just a sheath covering around an actual wound cable with a barrel on one end to attach to a lever.
Clutch, brake, shifter it don't matter, it can be used.

When you lay out where you want a cable to go, all your are dealing with is the black sheathe not the inner cable itself, you just pull that out for actually temp-placing the covering where you want it before cutting that outer cover.

Cutting any extra cable off the end of the real part when it's back in and done is nothing, but cutting that covering requires the right tools.
In short just a cutting tool like side cuter tool, expect it comes down in a circle.

And then I just use a regular poster 'stick pin' to open the cable end hole back up if it needs it so the actual cable slides in nice as it's the perfect size and and has a nice grip.
Just some tips while I was thinking about it ;-}

 

[FurryOnTheInside]

I found hydraulic less hassle except when I didn't have the tools and parts to fit it my way yet. Once fitted they require barely any maintenance ever, just like lubricate the caliper occasionally.
The performance gain on road is noticeable when you are really putting it to the test, trying to stop ridiculously abruptly.

I only paid £15 for a reconditioned Hope C2 #3with the "pro" lever. It's my old favourite and easily good enough for road riding. A BB7 caliper only is about £35.

But I am not recommending the OP Randall gets a hydraulic front brake because he has a single crown fork and a quill stem. A hydraulic hose should be routed through the steerer tube if there's a risk of the bars spinning in a fall (or bike falling over). That's impossible with a quill stem. So the cable actuation is the best for the OP.

For us, being rotary tool owners, I think the rotary tool with the cutting wheel is best for the cleanest cut cable outers. (A tip I picked up here)

 

[KCvale]

No doubt if needed Hyd is better than Cable, I just love the simplicity of cable as I size everything anyway is all.

 

[Randall]

No doubt if needed Hyd is better than Cable, I just love the simplicity of cable as I size everything anyway is all.

Point taken, thanks.