Problem: Robin/Subaru EH035 won't start

[Alaskavan]

That makes at least 4 of us that have had problems with the Staton kill switch. Next time someone speaks to Dave, this should be brought to his attention.

 

[Nuttsy]

This was the EXACT problem I had as well. The switches Staton sends with the kit are pretty cheap. You can buy a new switch as suggested, or take it apart like I did. There's a small brass thread inside where the screw fits that was off center, causing a completed circuit (i.e. "kill" state) with the frame, regardless of on/off position.

Unscrew the screw and detach the wire. Pry off the black plastic backing of the switch and you'll see what's inside. I had to straighten the threads and add some electrical tape in addition to the plastic backing. Try to visualize how the switch opens and closes the circuit, and make sure that the circuit is insulated and "open" when in the "on" position.

OK, played with the switch between rides (hey, a guy's gotta have some fun on the 4th). Found this EXACT same scenario. There IS a nut inside the switch (like so many other bike handlebar attachments) and it WAS cocked and leaning on the switch housing. The end of the screw was slightly stripped too. Thus the ground out. Also, I found the screw seemed a little too long so used a shortend version (common #6 machine screw). Had to do it about 3 times before i got it to thread without cocking over but then all was good! I'll try it like this for a time, but still would rather have a push-button momentary switch.
BTW, I don't fault Dave for this...unless he builds the switches too. (patent pending?) But, I will let him know and so should anyone else with this issue. He can't address that which he knows nothing about. Since not everyone is having this problem it is probably just an assembly fault. Ahhh, quality control.
WC

 

[TracyT]

Sorry ... I missed a few messages there.

I ended up going to a pocket bike (motorcycle) shop here in town to get a kill switch. While searching for one I found a pocket bike kill switch on eBay and then discovered there was a local store.

Once I told him what I was looking for, the owner seemed intrigued by the idea of the motored bike and gave me one for free. It was used, but it's in perfect condition other than being a little dirty. It comes ready to clamp onto the handlebars, too.

It looks just like this:
http://www.scooterpartsrus.com/4_stroke_kill_switch_manu.jpg

Tracy

 

[Mountainman]

pocket bikes stores are a trip !!!!

Sorry ... I missed a few messages there.

I ended up going to a pocket bike (motorcycle) shop here in town to get a kill switch.
Once I told him what I was looking for, the owner seemed intrigued by the idea of the motored bike and gave me one for free.
Tracy

pocket bike stores are a trip

I was looking for a plug a few months back
went into a brand new pocket bike -- made in China scooter store
he didn't have the plug I needed but told me
that he would get one in and give it to me for free !!!

these guys seem to be doing their very best to promote business

ride that thing

 

[bamabikeguy]

On Statons switch, there are two types of nut threads that the bolt could attach to, one brass colored and one aluminum.

Put it in the brass colored side and no problemos, thread it into the aluminum side & its "zip/nada/manana".

 

[motorbikemike45]

I have used two Staton kits and have had no problems with the original kill switches. Just lucky I guess. I replaced them both with keyed switches mounted in plastic pipe caps glued together then ran the wires through the frames. Make sure you get switches that are open on/closed off. I did this because all the neighborhood kids wanted to steal my bikes(One of them is my spy and tells me stuff). I showed them the key and "ignition switch" and explained they ain't going nowhere without the key. So far so good.