Reed valves and torque pipe

[lazylightning@mail.r]

@ Vermhot, Thanks!
@ Fabian, sure will!

 

[lazylightning@mail.r]

Credit needs to be given to Jaguar's pipe calculator! ;-) The cone layout program is very helpful also!

If you notice the little paper notes taped over on the pieces, they are notes to remind me the exact mm inner diameters and lengths that I need to get out of each piece. This is not as easy as it seems because you need to change a half mm here and there of your actual final measurements because there is some drift going on. I used that cutting wheel to grind both edges of the lengthwise surfaces to be welded. When cutting the metal out initially it will be off anyway, so be sure it's a little more than you need. This is easily achieved by tracing the cone layout(printout on thin cardboard) with something hard and sharp to put in a scratch, the piece will be bigger than the printout. When adjusting the lateral edges to affect diameter, just put the piece so that the spinning disc is inside of the crack. If you have a stationary disc setup you can compress the part and have it grinding both surfaces flat simultaneously - removing extra metal ideally so the surfaces match in flatness. Keep those calipers near and check frequently so as to not take off too much metal. Compressing the part so it closes completely, holding it closed, to take an inner diameter is tricky, especially when its hot. Removing metal from the ends leaves a lip that wont let you get a proper inner diameter. Make sure it's removed completely from both ends before you start taking down the lateral edges to affect the cone end or belly diameter. Take note that it can happen that you cut it so that you need to take more off at one end of the lateral edge than the other because your cylinder/belly is having a wider diameter at one end than the other(more excess to be removed at one end of diameter than the diameter at the other end). The same is true with the cones, you have to always check both ends and sometimes take metal off at an angle so as to remove more diameter at one end than the other. Take your time and use your imagination.

 

[lazylightning@mail.r]

By the way, that's not a splitting axe, it's my mini-sledge hammer. Good for tapping on the metal piece thats on/around the old shock absorber/hydraulic cylinder.

 

[Fabian]

I say not only more photos, but please make a video and upload it to Youtube

 

[lazylightning@mail.r]

This is what I mean by cutting disc that I used to grind with. We have a large stationary one at work, but if you have one of these, you could strap it down good and use it.

 

[Deleted member 12676]

I like how you pay attention to detail although pipes are very forgiving with protruding edges, etc. Your pipe looks better than mine!

I hope more people follow suit and make their own pipe. It's a great learning experience.

 

[lazylightning@mail.r]

Thanks Jaguar!

I was just trying to keep the inner surfaces and form ideally to the calculated image. Since we were using an improper welding system - electric coated electrodes- I had to make those edges meet exactly, otherwise a big hole would appear and drip inside when we were welding it.
The outside looked rather rough with uneven welds when it was done, so I decided to grind it down even like and then sanded and polished a bit. Not going overboard since I still had jbweld here and there to fill some micro holes and I would never be able to get a perfect finish with that anyway.

 

[Deleted member 12676]

Incredible for a first pipe! especially impressive since you used a sloppy electric welder. you've just shown that anyone can make a pipe. and with the plans for a torque pipe anyone can have one better than anyone is selling!

 

[lazylightning@mail.r]

Thanks again! %-D))) Well, the important thing to remember is just to take your time. It took a couple weeks to make because I go to work and all and we could only weld a cone or two every day. But when you order a carb or something else, it always takes a while, so it's the same. Just make something nice for yourself. I cut and pounded a cone or belly or two every day, the next day I would finish tapping on them with the hammer on the shock absorber/form and get them perfectly round and then got and work on the inner/lateral edges so as to effect the diameter of each cone or belly end, then the length had to be adjusted here and there, which will make the cone end wider or smaller depending on the end in question, so it's better to do the proper length first, clean up the inner round edges with a file or hard steel blade of sorts(dont let the lip from grinding grow too much or you cant cut it off and will have to file). Then start adjusting the inner lateral seam edges to bring the diameter down to the exact mating edge with the next piece. Note that you should have some wire rigging to hold it compressed while you take measurements and or do the first tack welds on that lateral seam.
These photos were made before I sanded and polished it, the welds have been ground down already. Note, I put all the lateral seams on the back side so they won't be visible when the pipe is mounted. The welds are offset a bit. This is important because it makes it stronger and because when you weld the ready cones and bellies together, there will probably be a little v shaped crack at the very end. Though if you are using proper welding then this may not be a problem. Just grind off any excess that get's into each cone and belly as it's being made and then make a final cleaning or grinding inside (do you have a small enough grinding wheel that you can connect to some kind of rod that fits in your drill chuck?). Then you do the last connecting welds that seal it all up. Try to make sure it doesn't drip at all on the final welds so there will be nothing inside the pipe....

ps. The screen on my camera is out and I cant see to adjust the regime to video, I can only take pics for a while now =-( Something gained and something lost..

 

[lazylightning@mail.r]

by the way...... Nadya is no sloppy welder ;-) She's hot for a granny too)))