(Part 1) So, if it isn't abundantly clear that I am a bit weird and love a challenge, now it should be. I chose my Phantom in part because it had a bad reputation, so when I found out about the 110cc and it's unbelievably crappy performance, I just had to get one! Resistance was futile.
First of all. My Phantom was filled with metal shavings. This engine is just filled with metal dust. Fine dust. It's in and on EVERYTHING. So another tear down here I go. Also, the crank is not as surprisingly untrue lol.
So before I get into a slightly lengthy talk and a good number of pictures, let's go over some numbers.
Squish Gap - 2.77mm. Not even joking. If you remove the nearly 1mm thick head gasket made out of not at all soft aluminum, that actually drops it down to a slightly less turdtastic 1.86mm. Yeah, both the head and jug need quite a bit of material removed. I also need to figure out a head gasket solution. I know the soda can method can work, but I would like something a tad thicker and a bit softer. I'll figure something out.
Port Timing. (My figures aren't the most precise ever due to my degree wheel being annoying, so don't nitpick please).
Intake - Opens 62 BTDC/118 ATDC and 124 Duration. Exhaust - Opens 68 BBDC/112 ATDC and 136 Duration. Transfers - Right Side 53 BBDC/127 ATDC, 106 duration. Left Side 51 BBDC/ 129 ATDC, 102 duration.
Blowdown - Right side 15 degrees. Left Side 17 degrees.
I seriously wonder if this engine would even make much beyond 1 horsepower... if it even would run at all. Not even a slight exaggeration.
Let's explore those ports now so we can get a real understanding of just way it's so bad.
Honestly, the intake timing really isn't the worst ever. It's the iron sleeve protruding from the roof of the port and on the right side that will cause the most issues. The side can be opened up for sure and the port floor could be dropped some and widened, so it isn't all doom and gloom. The roof portion is a huge turbulence maker though, and I may just have to whip out the JB Weld to try and fill that area in and smooth it out. I don't want to remove the lip at all though because it actually sits flush with the bottom of the piston skirt and covers the top ring at BDC perfectly, so it has that going for it. These two pictures show TDC and BDC.
Unfortunately, this is the best of the ports on this whole engine. The exhaust is the worst, or tied with the transfers. Not only does the piston go down all the way to be flush with the exhaust port floor, and actually sticks up about 6mm), but the sleeve is also blocking about 4mm of the top of the exhaust port and a couple, again, on the right side as well. Just removing that iron lip would probably add 5 or 6 degrees of exhaust timing all on its own.
First of all. My Phantom was filled with metal shavings. This engine is just filled with metal dust. Fine dust. It's in and on EVERYTHING. So another tear down here I go. Also, the crank is not as surprisingly untrue lol.
So before I get into a slightly lengthy talk and a good number of pictures, let's go over some numbers.
Squish Gap - 2.77mm. Not even joking. If you remove the nearly 1mm thick head gasket made out of not at all soft aluminum, that actually drops it down to a slightly less turdtastic 1.86mm. Yeah, both the head and jug need quite a bit of material removed. I also need to figure out a head gasket solution. I know the soda can method can work, but I would like something a tad thicker and a bit softer. I'll figure something out.
Port Timing. (My figures aren't the most precise ever due to my degree wheel being annoying, so don't nitpick please).
Intake - Opens 62 BTDC/118 ATDC and 124 Duration. Exhaust - Opens 68 BBDC/112 ATDC and 136 Duration. Transfers - Right Side 53 BBDC/127 ATDC, 106 duration. Left Side 51 BBDC/ 129 ATDC, 102 duration.
Blowdown - Right side 15 degrees. Left Side 17 degrees.
I seriously wonder if this engine would even make much beyond 1 horsepower... if it even would run at all. Not even a slight exaggeration.
Let's explore those ports now so we can get a real understanding of just way it's so bad.
Honestly, the intake timing really isn't the worst ever. It's the iron sleeve protruding from the roof of the port and on the right side that will cause the most issues. The side can be opened up for sure and the port floor could be dropped some and widened, so it isn't all doom and gloom. The roof portion is a huge turbulence maker though, and I may just have to whip out the JB Weld to try and fill that area in and smooth it out. I don't want to remove the lip at all though because it actually sits flush with the bottom of the piston skirt and covers the top ring at BDC perfectly, so it has that going for it. These two pictures show TDC and BDC.
Unfortunately, this is the best of the ports on this whole engine. The exhaust is the worst, or tied with the transfers. Not only does the piston go down all the way to be flush with the exhaust port floor, and actually sticks up about 6mm), but the sleeve is also blocking about 4mm of the top of the exhaust port and a couple, again, on the right side as well. Just removing that iron lip would probably add 5 or 6 degrees of exhaust timing all on its own.