Frankenstein
Deceased - Frankenstein 1991 - 2018
- Local time
- 10:49 PM
- Joined
- Jun 24, 2016
- Messages
- 5,035
Dial the crank in to check for run-out or misalignment?
Crank was true and straight as a high end arrow.
Check for fit on the bearings and install them without putting the load across the rolling elements?
Yes, fit really well actually, with the satisfying snap, I went as far as using poor man's liquid nitrogen and a bit of non-direct heat to slip them (crank on bearing) together.
Check for proper bearing side loads and clearance after assembly?
Uh... No? But it was one of those by feel things, like after torquing the case together with a torque wrench at 25lbs (what I read somewhere) the crank had no play, was centered, was smooth and turned over without any resistance. I did drill holes in it prior, so it was better balanced.
Leak test the whole assembly with pressure to test sealing?
No. However the seals and gaskets were brand new soaked with 2 stroke oil (where applicable) so they made a good seal, this is the method I use always, no problem. Gave up on rtv, messy and doesn't protect the core of the gasket, if anything it's a crutch. Heavy dose of oil keeps the water clear of the gasket, which in an engine hot enough to boil water you might want to keep steam from forming in a gasket and destroying parts of it. Water in a gasket also freezes in the winter months. Oil suffers neither bad quality. Sorry got off subject. New head gasket, installed properly as well.
Do a plug chop to assure proper mixture?
Yes, easy as pie when you have a spark plug wrench and a dozen clean sparkplugs to work with.
The engine had been running previously, no problems, only formed a small crank seal leak. Replaced it, saw my cylinder was getting a little dull, replaced and ported for a full cylinder fill from the transfers (offset the angle out slightly on one side, this results in less turbulence on the down stroke and creates more of a wall that pushes the old stuff out rather than a wet fart sorta push) , towards the back and up a bit you know blablabla. Corrected fill for third transfer (boost) port turbulence. Reed valve cleaned, checked reeds for imperfections, double checked assembly for problems. Motor ran before no problems, so not like I had a hole in the side of my crankcase.
Did not change really anything... Oh wait I did! I pulled out my old bearings, they were getting rough, I think the heat on one side was making the mag seal leak. I also replaced my crankcase gasket with real ones, it was originally a checker board box, basically identical to a cereal box. It came off the engine without hesitation except at the clutch area, but it came off in one piece regardless. Still downstairs on a glass sheet I use for gasket prep, Preserved in oil.
So tell me why after deliberate hard-assed assembly and quality control techniques I end up with a motor that either eats bearings or just runs like s**t. Meanwhile just prior the engine was a genuine half assed project but still ran better with a leak and bit up main bearings!
So the motor went to the junk box, hey somebody pulls the cylinder and Reed assembly it makes their engine run beautifully... Put that new piston and the crank into an old shell of another motor and it runs well enough to be worth a hundred bucks. Used the seals on a friend's bike and no problem. Leaves a crankcase with no found imperfections, and a clutch assembly with new pads in it. Mind boggling..
I did not change my muffler set up, I shouldn't of have to, I'm using an identical motor, with the same set up as the other, with my original muffler, and it runs fine.
I went as far as picking through the grease in the clutch spring area for signs of a leak into that, nothing. As of this time I do not have a tool for pressurizing the motor for a leak check, I do have access to a person who does. For checking that, what pressure do you think I should check to, and as far as the intake manifold goes, just tape it up? Would it be strange to put soapy water on the motor for additional leak checking during the test? Thing's covered in a brown film anyway, think a bit of dawn would be beneficial for it anyhow.
Seriously why me...
Crank was true and straight as a high end arrow.
Check for fit on the bearings and install them without putting the load across the rolling elements?
Yes, fit really well actually, with the satisfying snap, I went as far as using poor man's liquid nitrogen and a bit of non-direct heat to slip them (crank on bearing) together.
Check for proper bearing side loads and clearance after assembly?
Uh... No? But it was one of those by feel things, like after torquing the case together with a torque wrench at 25lbs (what I read somewhere) the crank had no play, was centered, was smooth and turned over without any resistance. I did drill holes in it prior, so it was better balanced.
Leak test the whole assembly with pressure to test sealing?
No. However the seals and gaskets were brand new soaked with 2 stroke oil (where applicable) so they made a good seal, this is the method I use always, no problem. Gave up on rtv, messy and doesn't protect the core of the gasket, if anything it's a crutch. Heavy dose of oil keeps the water clear of the gasket, which in an engine hot enough to boil water you might want to keep steam from forming in a gasket and destroying parts of it. Water in a gasket also freezes in the winter months. Oil suffers neither bad quality. Sorry got off subject. New head gasket, installed properly as well.
Do a plug chop to assure proper mixture?
Yes, easy as pie when you have a spark plug wrench and a dozen clean sparkplugs to work with.
The engine had been running previously, no problems, only formed a small crank seal leak. Replaced it, saw my cylinder was getting a little dull, replaced and ported for a full cylinder fill from the transfers (offset the angle out slightly on one side, this results in less turbulence on the down stroke and creates more of a wall that pushes the old stuff out rather than a wet fart sorta push) , towards the back and up a bit you know blablabla. Corrected fill for third transfer (boost) port turbulence. Reed valve cleaned, checked reeds for imperfections, double checked assembly for problems. Motor ran before no problems, so not like I had a hole in the side of my crankcase.
Did not change really anything... Oh wait I did! I pulled out my old bearings, they were getting rough, I think the heat on one side was making the mag seal leak. I also replaced my crankcase gasket with real ones, it was originally a checker board box, basically identical to a cereal box. It came off the engine without hesitation except at the clutch area, but it came off in one piece regardless. Still downstairs on a glass sheet I use for gasket prep, Preserved in oil.
So tell me why after deliberate hard-assed assembly and quality control techniques I end up with a motor that either eats bearings or just runs like s**t. Meanwhile just prior the engine was a genuine half assed project but still ran better with a leak and bit up main bearings!
So the motor went to the junk box, hey somebody pulls the cylinder and Reed assembly it makes their engine run beautifully... Put that new piston and the crank into an old shell of another motor and it runs well enough to be worth a hundred bucks. Used the seals on a friend's bike and no problem. Leaves a crankcase with no found imperfections, and a clutch assembly with new pads in it. Mind boggling..
I did not change my muffler set up, I shouldn't of have to, I'm using an identical motor, with the same set up as the other, with my original muffler, and it runs fine.
I went as far as picking through the grease in the clutch spring area for signs of a leak into that, nothing. As of this time I do not have a tool for pressurizing the motor for a leak check, I do have access to a person who does. For checking that, what pressure do you think I should check to, and as far as the intake manifold goes, just tape it up? Would it be strange to put soapy water on the motor for additional leak checking during the test? Thing's covered in a brown film anyway, think a bit of dawn would be beneficial for it anyhow.
Seriously why me...