upgrading crankshaft oil seals

[ImpulseRocket]

I'm in Canada but I'm assuming it is similar. I think what it means is that there is supposed to be no ethanol but there is a chance it could contain up to 10%. Sort of like when things say may contain peanuts

Yeah, I would imagine the standards are similar. Your reasoning is likely correct as well. They do also sometimes add a small amount of ethanol for other purposes too.

 

[robe]

I'm in Canada but I'm assuming it is similar. I think what it means is that there is supposed to be no ethanol but there is a chance it could contain up to 10%. Sort of like when things say may contain peanuts

You probably have a greater chance of ethanol around here than you do of peanuts.
There is a cardlock place near me that sells marked diesel and gas. I'll check with them if the mid grade marked has ethanol.
That would add insult to injury to get busted for riding a unregistered machine with a purple carburetor. All good til it isn't. Lol.

 

[EnderbyRider]

If or when I get caught I'll just get an electric bike or another dual sport. Haven't past any local police yet but I've only done 6 5km rides so far breaking in the motor

 

[robe]

I rode mine several times a week to town and back most of the summer without any issue at all. Interesting the different reactions from pedestrians. Some would give the thumbs up, others would have a look of horror but most were oblivious. Just another guy on a bike.
I did mention that I peddle at all times to maintain the illusion of motor assist.

 

[GW's Motorized]

I rode mine several times a week to town and back most of the summer without any issue at all. Interesting the different reactions from pedestrians. Some would give the thumbs up, others would have a look of horror but most were oblivious. Just another guy on a bike.
I did mention that I peddle at all times to maintain the illusion of motor assist.

I'd like to see some guy get busted going 50 and claim it was mostly him peddling lol

 

[Chainlube]

You probably have a greater chance of ethanol around here than you do of peanuts.
There is a cardlock place near me that sells marked diesel and gas. I'll check with them if the mid grade marked has ethanol.
That would add insult to injury to get busted for riding a unregistered machine with a purple carburetor. All good til it isn't. Lol.

I think the police are more oblivious to the law (pedal assist) than we are. They would impound the bike before looking in the tank.

 

[Deleted member 35519]

I found my air leak, it's around the oil seal on the magneto side. didn't even check the other side. i'm looking for better seals. The ones everyone sells for these engines seem dubious. Reviews indicate that new ones wear out easily.
View attachment 203615
has anybody tried these? i keep finding them mentioned. but I can't find anyone giving updates on if it worked or not. i see smolik sells them on ebay, he says they work if you shim the magnet with a washer. but I don't need his price markup. Shall I be the guinea pig?

or are there better ones you know of to use?

Yes they are the best solution and this is a fair price. If you purchase from Smolik Preformance they're gonna sell them for $25 and snail mail them while they order them here then send them to you.

 

[motorized Chuck]

Most people don't. They sell you on the idea that these engines are just ready to go, but so much is half-assed in the name of cheapness that there is much that can be improved if you are willing to put in the work.

I haven't received an engine yet that I've just bolted on and ran. There is so much to gain by mild porting to the cylinder and checking the piston. If only that the pin locks are set perfectly.

 

[Deleted member 35519]

I use the same seals most people use on these engines. If the crankshaft is true, and the crank bearings have all seals removed so oil can get to the seals, and even the tiniest bit of grease was put on them during assembly, they should last a good while.

I'm getting a mixed result after 2 consecutive failures of Chinese seals. The bearings for these seals and others California Motor bottom ends have had the same reoccurring issues. Two identical motors. Consecutive in a row. After 300+ mile break-in.

Some say to have one side sealed on each bearing facing out the case and the other open so they get lubed. The seal itself however just is acted as an extra barrier.

Please elaborate because it's very obvious the friction of the wildcats is destroying my magneto sides seal and neither bearing in these motors have seals themselves.

1. How is the crankshaft trued where can I obtain the information to trueing them here?

2. Should I rip apart the entire crank of these two Wildcat cranks and replace the bearings?

3. Both stopped running after the seals were blown and replaced. One blew the piston afterwards and being run too lean. Another just bogs and makes a whoomp sound after giving it throttle and de-accelerates from trying to start from pedal . Could this mean indefinitely the crankshafts aren't trued? Perhaps if I ripped apart the entire case I would find something else wrong with the crank? Is Or would this mean replacing the bearings help? Does any experienced builder here have information, guides or measures to check these problems? Is this likely to happen when the craft is trued,?


I really want to get to the bottom end of this problem and resolve it.

 

[Chainlube]

I'm getting a mixed result after 2 consecutive failures of Chinese seals. The bearings for these seals and others California Motor bottom ends have had the same reoccurring issues. Two identical motors. Consecutive in a row. After 300+ mile break-in.

Some say to have one side sealed on each bearing facing out the case and the other open so they get lubed. The seal itself however just is acted as an extra barrier.

Please elaborate because it's very obvious the friction of the wildcats is destroying my magneto sides seal and neither bearing in these motors have seals themselves.

1. How is the crankshaft trued where can I obtain the information to trueing them here?

2. Should I rip apart the entire crank of these two Wildcat cranks and replace the bearings?

3. Both stopped running after the seals were blown and replaced. One blew the piston afterwards and being run too lean. Another just bogs and makes a whoomp sound after giving it throttle and de-accelerates from trying to start from pedal . Could this mean indefinitely the crankshafts aren't trued? Perhaps if I ripped apart the entire case I would find something else wrong with the crank? Is Or would this mean replacing the bearings help? Does any experienced builder here have information, guides or measures to check these problems? Is this likely to happen when the craft is trued,?


I really want to get to the bottom end of this problem and resolve it.

Yes, you'll have to separate the case. The crank bearing is installed from inside. There are better bearings and seals, but you have to know the size. vxb.com will probably have them. Here's what the inside looks like. Each bearing has a seal, plus the case has a seal. On this gt4 case, the seal says 14.8x27x3.8 mm. The inside of the bearing is open, as seen in this right side of the case. The outside is sealed as on the crank. Nothing like good quality bearings and seals.