What does your front wheel sound like at speed?

Wow don't all jump in at once.

I have just replaced my bearings, all clean new grease and have tightened it to the point of having no grab or drag in rotation I have about a 16th of side to side play.

I hear a noise that sounds like it did before I did the replacement, Kind of a rum rum rum sounds with some clatter.
Thoughts?
 
Wow don't all jump in at once.

I have just replaced my bearings, all clean new grease and have tightened it to the point of having no grab or drag in rotation I have about a 16th of side to side play.

I hear a noise that sounds like it did before I did the replacement, Kind of a rum rum rum sounds with some clatter.
Thoughts?


Clatter? Not good. What bike is it? Low end bikes have notoriously bad quality hubs. You also don't mention but I'll assume it's a standard cup/cone hub bearing. First off, that's too much play, in fact there should be none at all. Cones should be set so the bearing has just the slightest pre-load. I would bet there is pitting on the races/cones. Check that, new cones can be be replaced inexpensively but if the races are brinelled (though they can be replaced) it probably would be cheaper just to get another complete wheel.
 
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Hi and thanks.
I have had this same trouble with about 5 front wheels.
Trying to decide if this sound is normal for a wheel now going 30 mph that was made to go 10...
Or did I have bigger problems.

I have redone the wheel and have taken out the play.

Funny when I had it a bit to tight, it would spin and then hit a catch and pull on my fingers holding the axle. is this the pitting?

New grease and new bearings... thought I had it licked.

This wheel has loose bearings. 3/16th

So does you wheel make no noise or some and what is a healthy noise?
 
I sometimes wonder if, when you're dealing with much more force than a bicycle is designed for, it is better to find a proper drum braked moped hub. But I know nothing about the work needed to make it fit, I just thought it's going to be engineered for the job.
 
Hi and thanks.
I have had this same trouble with about 5 front wheels.
Trying to decide if this sound is normal for a wheel now going 30 mph that was made to go 10...
Or did I have bigger problems.

I have redone the wheel and have taken out the play.

Funny when I had it a bit to tight, it would spin and then hit a catch and pull on my fingers holding the axle. is this the pitting?

New grease and new bearings... thought I had it licked.

So does you wheel make no noise or some and what is a healthy noise?

You're absolutely spot on about one thing, bikes that made were to be ridden at 8-10 mph under human power have components that are specced by the manufacturer to be just good enough. Folks will argue sometimes about department store bikes thinking they'll be fine. I know everyone must adhere to what their budget allows but truth is you get what you pay for. If you ride at speed and ride enough putting serious miles on a bike, not just an occasional buzzing around the neighborhood or an errand here and there like the majority of motored bikers, you'll have component breakdown and premature failure with low end bikes.

The trick with hub bearings is they cannot be too tight or too loose. Just right is a matter of feel and experience. Rather than go on typing too much about the nuance of bearing adjustment let me let a qualified expert tell about it.

Wheel bearing adjustment
by Jobst Brandt
Bicycle wheel bearings, as most, require a slight preload so that more than one ball under the cone (inner race) will support its load. With proper preload, slight drag should be perceptible. Preload drag is small compared to drag caused by wheel loads, neither of which are significant regardless of adjustment. In contrast bearing life is affected by proper adjustment. Adjusting ball bearings to spin freely unloaded does not reduce operating friction because a bearing with proper preload has lower drag when loaded than one with clearance. For high quality bearings, preload should be just enough to cause light drag when rotating the axle between thumb and forefinger. Low grade bearings will feel slightly lumpy with proper preload.

Wheels with quick release (QR) axles present an additional problem in that closing the QR alters bearing clearance. Closing the lever requires increasing manual force with a slight over-center feel near the end of the stroke. This lever force arises from compressing the hollow axle and stretching the skewer. The ratio of elastic length change between axle and skewer is that of their cross sectional area and active lengths.

Although small, axle compression on QR hubs is large enough to alter bearing clearance and should be considered when adjusting bearings. Bearings should be adjusted just loose enough so that closing the QR leaves the bearing with a slight preload. Excessive preload from QR closure is the cause of most wheel bearing failures not caused by water intrusion. Clearance, in contrast can be felt as disconcerting rattle when encountering road roughness.

To test for proper adjustment, install the wheel and wiggle the rim side-to-side to determine that there is no clearance (rattle), then let the wheel rotate freely to a stop. If the wheel halts with a short (indexed) oscillation, bearing preload is too high.

Although adjusting QR force is a safety consideration, it is also one of bearing life. It should be kept at a constant level once the desired closure force has been determined. Rear vertical dropouts require a lower and more predictable closure force than was formerly required with axles that could move forward from chain tension. Because vertical dropouts do not rely on friction to resist chain load, many hubs now have smooth faced jam nuts that do not damage dropout faces as older knurl faced ones did.

BTW, in answer to your question:
So does you wheel make no noise or some and what is a healthy noise?

A rightly functioning, tuned and lubed wheel bearing is nearly silent, In fact a handy little trick we use at the shop that I'll pass on to you as a diagnostic to judge the state of wheel bearings is to elevate the bike off the floor, put your ear to the saddle and spin the wheel. The bike frame acts as stethoscope amplifying any sound coming from the bearing and with practice you can quickly judge the state of the bearing, if it's properly adjusted, needs lube or discern the grinding noises that mean trouble. Try it.
 
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Like listening to a screwdriver on an engine telling you what's clattering, wahat isn't?
 
Thanks to all!

Yep this is still making one **** of a lot of noise, it is and alum rim, don't know if the hub is alum as well...? But it is the truest wheel I have.
This is my main transpo, so I have to find me a new wheel.

What is the worst case with this wheel making racket ?

Also a new freak out, I began my ride to work and I heard a knock and then the peddles began to rotate. I stopped and braked hard and rotated the peddles I finally got it to stop turning. But rode to work wondering when this going to happen again at 30 mph...!

What is the best wheel for the money?
Ebay seller you'd trust?
Be groovy ya all!
 
I seem to hear everything through my seat when I'm riding my bike. Oh I meant feel.
 
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