Whizzer J

[Jerry Hilborn]

My cousin was working at a sawmill in rural northern Michigan in the mid 80s and told me about a motored bicycle he saw which he described like a Whizzer. We picked it up in 1990 with the blessings of the landowner. It had been half buried in the swamp. I took it home & promptly scattered the motor & stored things away in totes. Fast forward to present a wife three kids three house moves & project revisited. Looks like a Roadmaster 226 WH and a J case with H cylinder? 3/4 valves tillotsen carb and flat points cover, twist grips.

Cylinder honed, painted, valves lapped, skirt clearance checked, (new) rings gapped.

Big holdup is bearing in cover ( I have new one) and crank roller bearings are stuck. Two & three jaw pullers can't get to roller on crank.

Also after years apart the intake tappet seems too big to go in its bore. Not corroded either. Any ideas?

 

[tprjj49707]

All the bearings are removed. I put digital caliper on a new push rod & checked the bore with small T gauge. Don't recall the difference but bore was smaller. I have a friend machinist that recently split with his wife & now lives on other end of county...don't cross paths now without planning. He has been a great resource. I never heard of aluminum "shrinking" like that. The rear wheel was buried in swamp, motor wasn't but it was exposed to the elements for a long time.

 

[tprjj49707]

I drilled the crank end as Quenton suggested on a post & if I read the Whizzer Facts correctly the crank spacer is to be grooved as marked? Any guidance as to groove size?

 

[tprjj49707]

Whizzer Service Facts, page 39, item (2) states to cut two grooves in the spacer at those locations to feed needle bearing. Quenton mentioned it on a side cover discussion. I am comfortable with where they are located according to the text & marked locations with a sharpie. Just wondered what the consensus was for grooves...chainsaw file cuts appropriate or what.

Jerry