Anybody Using this Kit? enginesonlineshop.com/4-Stroke

[Quenton Guenther]

Hi Kayaker58,

I will attempt to answer all your questions.

We are currently upgrading our website, and it will be far more detailed than in the past. It will show the Q-Matic and all the parts needed to make the drive.

The Q-Matic is very different from all other drive systems by design. After extensive research we found the following offered with current drive systems:

Most use the "weed eater" style clutch.
Most install the clutch on the motor crankshaft.
Most have serious issues with the "free wheel" system.
Most have a 90 day warranty [some only 30 days]
Parts are often out of stock and must wait for replacement parts.
Each drive system is completely different from earlier versions.

More information on our research..........
"Weed" eater type clutches enguage quickly and require wild ratios to buffer the quick connection.
Automatic clutches aren't balanced and vibrate if not supported on both sides.
"Weed eater" type clutch systems only use 3 shoes on a pivot.
Primary gear and chain drives are very noisy.
T-Belt drive systems require a working freewheel to avoid ripping the teeth off the belt during de-acceleration.
Free wheel systems work well with bicycle pedal system and often fail when motor driven.

The Q-Matic was designed to avoid all the issues with other systems.
First we located the AUTOMATIC [Max Torque] clutch to the rear of the drive and supported with LARGE bearings [1.375"]on both sides.
We reduced the primary ratio in the process and only spin the clutch at approx. 1/3 motor speed [saves a lot of energy]
By not locating the clutch on the motor crankshaft we transfer more power and reduce vibration.
We use a special balanced secondary drive pulley to increase torque by secondary "flywheel" action.
The Q-Matic has a built-in freewheel system that never breaks [part of the clutch output system]
By design the Q-Matic has built-in "motor braking" to aid in stopping.
Q-Matic drive is American made and uses many "off the shelve" parts.
Drive ratios are high to use the torque peak of the motor, without allowing the motor to over rev.
We claim 30 MPH on level ground with heavy rider, however many report speeds over 40 MPH with minor changes.
Q-Matic drive needs a 56 tooth rear sprocket or larger [larger sprocket will increase "take-off" speeds and also add some to the top end].
All Q-Matic drives use a #41 HD chain, not the problematic #415 chain.
The current Q-Matic drive is version #8, however all parts fit all drives as we make everything "backwards compatible".
The Q-Matic is one of the thinnest drives available.
All stock Q-Matic drives fit the HS 142 and Honda GXH50 motors, only the drive mounting bolts are different [Honda uses 1/4 X 28 bolts to attach drive to motor, whereas the HS motors use 6 MM.
The HS is faster than the Honda on top end as the carburetor main jet is larger. The Honda has more bottom end torque.
The Q-Matic drive uses a HD automotive wedge belt [good for many thousands of miles], or the AX series for other motor options [HF 79 & 99 CC motors].
The Q-Matic has been tested on motors with over 30 HP [B & S Vanguard twin], and did well.
The Q-Matic will fit hundreds of different type motors [all that is needed is a flat mounting surface on the side of the motor and an extended crankshaft].
Many have upgraded motors on their motorbikes and simple installed the drive on the new motor.

The Q-Matic drive price varies depending on which motor it is to be used on. The price differences are centered around which belt and pullies are used on the drive. As an example... The drive can be ordered to fit the HF series of 4-stroke motors, and can be ordered with a primary "fixed" 2.5" pulley, or an adjustable pulley. The Q-Matic for the HF series can also be ordered without a primary pulley and can also be ordered with an AX25 or AX26 primary belt [depending on usuage].

None of the Q-Matic drives require pedal assist, although many tell me they like to pedal assist [I don't want to pedal assist].

We offer a complete kit [minus the HS 142 motor]for the Honda owners [check on prices via email while our site is being upraded].

Because you asked......... I will list some MSRP prices.

Complete EZM kit [includes everything except the bicycle] $599.00 to $629.00
Q-Matic Drive for Honda GXH50 or HS 142 with 5/8" shaft $279.00

Often authorized dealers will offer a better price, you should check with them for savings.

Have fun,

 

[kayaker58]

Quenton, Thank You Sir for explaining it for Me The adjustable Pulley, how does it adjust & why? Would that be the Best or Non adjustable? Does it fit the Honda 50, the adjustable pulley?

I understand the HS Carb , putting on the Honda 50 is Great addition, Would that allow the Honda 50 to Outperform the HS engine?

Also, I have seen the Q-Matic belt pur on both ways aroind the Spring Loaded Tension Pulley. Terryblo Video has Pulley on top of belt, then I see it with the Tension Pulley on top of the belt!

Is there 2 different Versions of the Q-Matic ? If so, Which one is the Best & why 2 different setups?

Thanks again, Appreciate Your Vision & Insight

 

[Quenton Guenther]

Hi Kayaker58,

There are 8 versions of the Q-Matic. All are "backwards compatable", meaning all current production parts will fit all versions of the drive.

The Honda & HS versions [stock drive] use a 2" X 5'8" primary pulley.

The adjustable pulley is only offered on the lower RPM motors to take advantage of the torque peak. The adjustable pulley is pre-set, not adjustable while riding. The adjustable pulley allows the ratios to be manually changed prior to riding.

The adjustable pulley won't work on the hi RPM motors such as the Honda GXH50 or the HS 142 series of motors, as it won't set below 2.1" and the high idle motors [2,000 RPMs] will attempt to enguage the clutch at idle.

The Honda motor will equal the HS top end with the HS carburetor installed, but won't exceed the top end speed. The Honda has more bottom end torque and with the HS carburetor it will do slightly better overall.

Some of the earlier versions of the Q-Matic use the external idler system, however can be upgraded to the better internal idler system. EZM is one of the only companies that actually did research and testing of belt drive systems, and the experts from Gates & Goodyear, helped us with the idler design. Several companies have attempted to make a primary belt system, however they didn't bother to research the options. The experts informed us the "notched" belts [AX and automotive wedge] were designed to travel around small pulleys. Seems when a FHP belt travels around small pulleys it "bunches" up and runs hot. While a conventional external idler works fine on FHP belts it will crack the "notched" belts between the "teeth", and shorten belt life. We were also told bending the belt "backbone" also absorbs power, and lowers the power transfer rate.

The internal idler is currently being used and has also been installed on the last 600 production drives. All series #7 & #8 and most series #6 used the internal idler. Series #1, #2, & #3 were manual drives [Silent Power], and series #4 & #5 used the external idler [many have upgraded to the internal idler]. The only difference between the version #7 and #8 is the new balanced primary pulley.

Have fun,

 

[Samdallas214]

I'm looking at the same kit it's between enginesonlineshop.com and bikeberry.com, but enginesonlineshop.com kits are around $40.00 cheaper then bikeberry
Did you buy the kit. If so was it a good kit?

 

[kayaker58]

That enginsonline was in My first post. Counsel on here not worth it. I have the GEBE and thot I had found the Best, After Quenton Me of His Q-Matic & watchibg His Videos of it in action, that is what I will save $ for it

He Amazes Me that Anything on the Q-Matic is replaced thru Automotive Store And He is Not afraid to tell You that That is Sweet

Watch His You Tube Videos & I think Videos of the Q-Matic thru Terryblo, if Ispelled that rite

The Videos Sell them as You watch them ride Uphill to Prove there Q-Matic is Awesome & Durable

 

[kayaker58]

Quenton, Thanks for the Info I read that You now have the #8 Version out, that is Awesome, Appreciate that You are Always seeking to Improve on the Q-Matic I am trying to make sure before I buy the Q-Matic that I am getting the #8 Version. How do I do that? I have asked several times of someone that sells it and not gotten an answer back to that effect.

Also I thinking to mount the GX50 Q-matic on a FS Elite Elk River MB 26in. Can You tell me will I need the Wider Crank? I have seen some mounts that sit up high enough to not need the wider crank, that would be nice.

Also 2 different GX50 Honda offered, can You tell Me which is the Correct one for the Q-matic?

Thanks

 

[Quenton Guenther]

Hi Kayaker58,


The Q-Matic drives sell very fast, and I doubt any dealer has any old stock. I would think all current inventory is version #8. We ship every drive produced every day and often have issues with staying up with the demand. The only difference between version #7 and #8 is the new expensive balanced pulley. One of the most important features of the Q-Matic drive system is the fact it is backward compatible which allows for any version of the drive to be upgraded to the latest system. As an example..........to upgrade version #3 to version #8 would require the idler to be internal, install the HD automotive wedge belt, replace the cover mounting bolts with the current plastic clips, replace Congress aluminum pulley with the HD steel balanced version, and upgrade the bearing carrier brackets.

As far as needing wider pedal cranks, it depends on the bicycle frame and where the motor is located on the mount. If the motor is mounted high and forward, the pedals should clear. If the motor is mounted towards the rear of the mount and lower a different pedal crankset will be needed. Most often replacing the pedal crank with the shorter version is the easy solution. Most bike shops carry the shorter one piece pedal crank arm [1 inch shorter] for the 24" bikes and normally cost under $10.00. The shorter pedal crank arms travel below the motor mount and provide the clearance needed. If the arms aren't out far enough, you can also purchase "pedal extensions" to bring the pedals outward more.

As long as the Honda has a 5/8" shaft, the Q-Matic will bolt directly on. The only difference is with the drive mounting hardware, as the Honda motors use 1/4" X 28 in the side of the motor and the end of the crankshaft.

Hope this answers your questions, if not just ask again.

Have fun,

 

[Mr.Don]

Any bike with a similar geometry to a Schwinn cruiser should fit the HS just fine. Heck, I got mine to fit on my frame and it's smaller than that!

You can get a lot of life out of a belt if you take care of it - don't overtighten it, don't let it sit in the sun, and keep it "dressed".
Belt dressing you can get at an auto parts store or dielectric grease will help keep a belt from drying out and cracking.

As for that gearbox, a major drawback of those gearboxes is that they have no chain tensioner mechanism inside them.
The chains end up getting loose and breaking, or they might munch a sprocket. Only a few have had success in the long-term with chaindrive transmissions.

In WWI (1914-1918) belts were the way to go. The were an inch and a half wide and thick. Should it break, there was a repair kit that had you cut the broken ends even and "staple" it together with four heavy duty steel "c-shaped" clamps that you closed with a pair of pliers. As chain technology improved, the American Bikes in the war went to chains, carrying extra sprockets in their repair bag.

 

[Frankenstein]

In WWI (1914-1918) belts were the way to go. The were an inch and a half wide and thick. Should it break, there was a repair kit that had you cut the broken ends even and "staple" it together with four heavy duty steel "c-shaped" clamps that you closed with a pair of pliers. As chain technology improved, the American Bikes in the war went to chains, carrying extra sprockets in their repair bag.

And then Harley Davidson said chains are still stupid and continued using belts.

Still makes me question the logic of such a complicated device acting as the connection between the motor and the wheel... Belts really do have a good rep.