Best Motor For Long Distance Trip?

[DetonatorTuning]

ah yes, now that i look at your bio i remember your post of recieving your BOXER bike.

i wonder what kind of exhaust the Morini folks used to get that 5.8HP rating ?

someone recently showed a factory Morini expansion chamber and silencer too, i wonder if it is pretty potent as well ?

Dean is pretty much a wizard at pipes so no doubt his gets about all that's to be had. it's also much more compact than the Morini piece i saw.

thanks,
steve

 

[robin bird]

i emailed Dean and the engine only produces 5.8 hp even with the expansion chamber. On the morini site it rates the engine as 5.8 hp

 

[augidog]

"only" 5.8HP...

bummer

 

[DetonatorTuning]

"only" 5.8HP...

bummer

yeah, i kind of thought that the Morini people probably used as good a pipe as possible to attain as much bragging rights as could be had.

"only" 5.8HP from a 50cc reed ported 12.5:1 CR 2 stroke is pretty good in my book, but the same engine makes 9.4HP at the next stage of tuning !!

steve

 

[augidog]

3 years ago, i din't know squat about small engines...well, 4-stroke i understood but 2-stroke was new for me.

after many HT's, many utility engines, and a cag-47...i still only directly-know enuff about 2-strokes to recognize a quality stock-config & the theory of basic intake & exhaust tweaks.

i've also run a selection of 4-strokes, of diverse quality just like the 2-cycle choices i've had...and, if i ever find the right 4-stroke to strum sabrina down the road, i'd make the switch in a heartbeat, because i do know what to do with a 4-stroke, and i love the future alternative-fueling potential 4-sroke offers.

considering my choices include the high-end, i choose high-end, for all the many reasons we've all pounded into the dirt for months now...

robin', steve...if i strapped 5+hp on sabrina, (boy i'd love a morini-level engine) and it ran fine stock, i'd gear it down to 35mph and never miss the extra tweaks, and then i'd be able to strengthen her even more...

hehe, and saying that made me think to say this...

i was gonna write this big speech about some of the discussions here lately, i lurk and read whatever the crowd is reading...imo, too few people are paying attention to the actual strength of the chassis, and that is where the movement will be hurt the worst...talking about accidents and new laws and such...and still prioritizing speed and power...barely any talk of organization, standardization or self-regulation...where's the safety aftermarket, etc?

anyways, that was just a neat chance to preach and get back on-topic...methinks i offended the OP a while back but i was only talking straight.

my bottom line is that i've been paying close attention to what MB'ing means and where it fits in the vehicular food-chain...sabrina-2 is now as strong (and safe) as a light motorcycle, almost weighs as much, too...and a stock quality 40cc engine takes me down the road at 30mph...i'm not at all afraid to be a hundred miles from help...she's an mb, i think, in traditional form, and no longer just a kit on just a bicycle.

LandSFan...if traveling is the topic, then a serious effort is the only way to pull it off.

 

[DetonatorTuning]

augi,

i agree completely.

my experience ove rthe past 2 yrs has brought me to the same general conclusions.

if we are going to build and use MB's as serious vehicles of choice then it is going to AND SHOULD take more than bolting a sub $200. kit on a Walley World curb cruiser.

even with some of the VERY best of the current commercial offerings you are still reliant for the most part on median (at best) bike parts at the core. like most all things these days standard bike parts are actually engineered to ATLEAST 200% of expected use. IMHO even the HT puts these OVER their reliable safety margin.

there are however MANY EXCEPTIONAL SPECIALTY PARTS available and a number of skilled craftsman to be called on to build a true MB vehicle. i count Sabrina 11 to be WELL within this class in every area.

when i closed my comments on the "twin-belt jackshaft" thread i said i was retiring that build and in fact have. i've even restored the Trek 4500 to pedal only status, because i feel that even $450. bikes lack far too much to be the core of a serious MB vehicle.

right now i'm looking at a recumbent frame and fork that will fill the bill. to be followed by TAG wheels with DT Swiss hubs, Avid "juice" disc brakes, full fairing and fabric bodysock. the engine is still in the discussion stage.

steve

 

[TerraPilot]

Cruz Recumbent Kit meets Wally World Bike meets GEBE Kit.

What do you get when you convert a $100 Wally World Bike to a Cruz Recumbent then add a Golden Eagle Bike Engine kit? Total Cost less labor = $1130? See attached;

Ok, So the Robin Engine is not on there yet. Its in the mail.

Regards

 

[DetonatorTuning]

TerraPilot,

i like the Cruz as a concept but, because i'm very short (5/4 28" inseam) the high crank geometry is pretty hard on me from stops cause i'm tilting the bike over to get a foot on the ground LOL.

there are a few guys here using the CRUZ under both electric and gas assist with success. i think their seat is one of the best for simplicity and function.

i'm going with a LWB, low crank, 26/ 26.

i hope that you will be so successful and satisfied with your conversion that you will feel good about investing in a better base bike for higher grade components and safety.

steve

 

[TerraPilot]

Hi Detonator;
I thought I posted on your comment but I don't see it.
Exactly what do you tune? I tuned radios in the Army. LOL

I've seen 24" and even 20" frames with the Cruz conversion. GEBE allows for 24 as the smallest. I wish I knew more about suspension. Good suspension will turn your ride into a magic carpet. YOu have to admit my rig might come close.
But if you feel you must pursue the other recumbent I like it too. I call them 3/4 recumbents because of the crank position.

About the Avalon, The frame is a diamond in the ruff in my opinion. everything else is probably as you say and can be upgraded. Brakes will probably be the first and perhaps the back wheel. Seeing that my back wheel is actually the old front, Maybe I could improve my braking by getting GEBEs drum brake and rim combo. That would kill a couple of problems with one toss.

 

[DetonatorTuning]

TerraPilot,

DetonatorTuningSolutions is the name of one of my "cottage" buisnesses. i'm a multi make motorcycle tuner, custom project consultant and one off parts fabricator.

smaller frames and wheels are not a solution for me, it makes getting the gear ratios i need more difficult.

the main concern for me with the Cruz conversion and "bargin" bike is the fact that those bikes have shallow steeringhead angles which is made up for by the forward offset of the fork legs. when the forks are turned backwards the angle becomes VERY shallow and as speeds rise the impact of road irregularities tends to become more and more horizontal to the axle rather than verticle. fork tube sheer is NOT something i'd be wanting to experience.

upscale DH style frames with more neck rake would be MUCH safer in this instance.

again, i hope you will enjoy success, safety and satisfaction with your bike.

steve