I went with a piece of red oak, will post some pics later, thanks again guys. My next question is: what did you guys use to remove the extra chain links?, I don't have a chain breaker tool..
Frame too big!
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I went with a piece of red oak, will post some pics later, thanks again guys. My next question is: what did you guys use to remove the extra chain links?, I don't have a chain breaker tool..
Al.Fisherman
Active Member
I myself have both a inexpensive chain breaker (which I don't like or use) and a bench grinder. A 4" grinder with either a grinding wheel or a cut off wheel will work, nice to have around and inexpensive from Harbor Freight...less then $25.00
http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/grinders/4-1-2-half-inch-angle-grinder-95578.html
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machiasmort
Active Member
I used a dremel cut-off to weaken the link and rusty thick nail to drive it out. B-sure to send pic's!
machiasmort
Active Member
Tip: an easy way to line the holes up, is too put the studs in the motor and hold the block of wood centered against them. TAP it with a hammer to leave your marks, only a tap tho!!! Don't slam it. Just enough to transfer the marks!
To cut a chain, waaay back when I was a wee lad, I would file the head of the link pin down very thin. Next I would set the opposite side of the link pin in the center of a 1/4" nut resting on the garage floor. Get an old nail or drywall screw with a dull tip and with my dad's hammer I pounded the link pin out far enough to free the outer chain link plate.
Last, I would stick a screwdriver in between the link plates and pry them until the loose side plate was bent enough to let the chain slip apart.
Last, I would stick a screwdriver in between the link plates and pry them until the loose side plate was bent enough to let the chain slip apart.
More great tips!, got the exhaust on last night, had to do a heat-and-bend to get it to clear the pedals, it looks crappy just hanging there really, once it get going and broken in I might get a SBP chamber. Chain question, if I get the tension nice and tight without a tensioner should I bother installing it (the provided tensioner) at all??
If you can get both the pedal chain and the engine chain properly tensioned without the kit supplied tensioner, then don't use it. Sometimes they are a necessary evil to keep the chain from dragging against a chain stay though.
machiasmort
Active Member
That's good advice! You may however need to re-adjust your chain after a few hundred miles due too stretching.
Here's a link to another thread concerning the chain tensioner. Perhaps it will give you ideas if you end up having to use the tensioner.
http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=27374
http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=27374
OK so here is how I solved it, used a piece of red oak and a small layer of JB weld stick. I could not get the cut to fit as flush as I liked so I spread a thin layer of the JB stick in the cutout and covered it with saran wrap and pressed it to the tube for an exact fit then pulled off and let dry overnight. Also is my solution (for now) to the chain tensioner problem (mine kept wanting to slide back down the slot), I put a small nylon spacer to move the idler out about 1/3 inch that gave me enough space to put another nut/bolt underneath to prevent it from going down again.
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