Staton: What size friction roller?

[SirJakesus]

I just installed a friction drive on my Schwinn High Timber. It was by far the EASIEST MB assembly ever. I think it may have taken me 2 hours to install the whole kit. This included swapping out the original tires and tubes for continental town and country 26x2.1. This thing is fast, light and simple. I'm loving it already. I probably won't keep it on the schwinn since I really like dual suspension MB's but I had been sitting on the kit for months and just had to throw it on there. I was bored
I would totally recommend a friction drive as long as you're not planning on using it in the rain as the roller will slip on the wheel. I originally bought this engine for my girlfriend but I think I'm going to order another one with a smaller spindel. This one is DARN fast with the 1.3/8in roller. Amazingly it'll pull really well up most of the hills here. I have to pedal assist of course but she really moves!

 

[5-7HEAVEN]

dchrist, I am an ardent fan of friction drive. I love its simplicity, versatility and ease of assembly.

BTW, the specs I posted were from an online Spindle Speed-Rpm Calculator. I'm not sure if a 4-stroke 2 hp Honda would have the potential to go that fast. If that same engine's peak is 7200 rpm, with a 1.75" roller it should travel about 33 mph.

Good job, SirJakesus. Which engine are you using? At what speed and rpm does that 1 3/8" roller max out?

 

[Happy Valley]

Yeah, me too, what 5-7Heaven said on the friction drives.

What I was commenting on above was doing a hundred mile daily commute on any MB. It's asking a lot from a bicycle and it'll demand a lot from you. Two hours each way, four hours a day?

IMO, doing 500mi@wk on a decent running motorcycle would be stiff enough.

But who knows. You'll try it and see, right?

 

[dchrist]

I'm not so much concerned about the saddle time (2hrs) as I am the DE living up to DE's stated performance...here's what I have found so far: High end tires are reported to last anywhere from 800 to 1500 miles between replacemnet. Speeds depending on roller size from 20's to 40's, with a special roller by DE for wet weather (I'n not a big fan of wet weather). DE tells me I need the Honda 50cc or the Mit. 47cc to get the higher end speeds...Pumpbuilder stated he was getting the higher end speeds with the Mit. 43cc, eg the ENCORE system....So that's wherre I am...still leaning toward the FD system. I too like the simplicity of the system. Thanks for everyone's input, has been helpful.

 

[dchrist]

PS...I'ven been riding just with pedal power for years mostly a MB and recently a recumbent which I really like, comfort is great. I have ridden the bent to work a couple of times (7.5 hrs seat time ) and hope to eventually add an engine there also. But for now just the MB. Since I have never used a gas assist engine on a bike before I have found it daunting at times to sift thru the natural bias to get to the more objective info on how these systems work. Bottom line at some point I'll just have to jump.....will keep you posted...

 

[pumpbuilder]

I have been through Harrisburg and I seem to recall hills. I would not strart out with the 1.75" drive roller. I would start out with the "standard" 1.25", then try the 1.5". I bet you stick with the 1.5" if your not a heavy person. The 1.5" was my favorite @180', now at 200' if I had hills like before I might have changed to a 1.25"

I like the friction Drive. Its Simple to use. You can change the gearing on the DE system in about 1-2 min by changing the drive rollar and quick leg adjustment. They have an all weather drive rollar so if it rains you just change that, again takes 1-2 min.

A good quality tire lasts me a full season. The reason is unlike other friction drives there is not the massive heat transfer to the tire. There is very little that can go wrong on the DE kit. Your going to love it for those long trips. I have used their kits since 92 or 93.

The belt and chain kits are OK but they have a lot more parts and put stress on bike parts not designed for the extra stress, a friction drive kit just puts more stress on the tire and a good high PSI REAL rubber tire is an easy upgrade.

 

[pumpbuilder]

Yes the Encore is what I have. Speed wise please note this is a high speed bike. It will go a bit faster then a MTN Bike as its a low profile for less wind resistance.

 

[MotorBicycleRacing]

A good quality tire lasts me a full season. The reason is unlike other friction drives there is not the massive heat transfer to the tire. There is very little that can go wrong on the DE kit.

Why does the DE kit transfer less heat to the tire?

As compared to a quality friction drive like a Staton?

 

[pumpbuilder]

Forbisher,

Most of the other friction drives I have seen use a metal Spindel. The DE does not. The metal spindels transfer heat I think from the engine. I just know I have seen heat damage to tires from some metal ones on tires before and never on the DE ones EXCEPT on my very first kit back in 92 before he did the upgrade, [DE Started with metal.] and modified the engine PTO's to take the new style.

 

[dchrist]

Thanks for your input pumpbuilder...I'll go with the 1.50 to start, that's inline with what I was thinking also. Any thoughts on the 47cc Mit. that DE sells vs. the 43cc or even the 50cc Honda? I also ride a Barcroft bent but not sure the frame is up to the stress of an engine....was actually thinking of building my own frame over the winter and beef it up to handle an engine. I was serriously condsidering the Honda for the low end torque.