Almost new RobinSubaru EH035 suddenly stopped and will not restart.
- Thread starter Oban
- Start date
The first thing I did was e-mail David Staton but responding to e-mails doesn't seem to be his strong point and I'm still waiting...
Having said that I have no complaints about the quality of his equipment, I'm very pleased with the crankshift kit.
Motorbikemike45 you may be right about Robin UK doing something for goodwill, the problem is I live in the wilds of Northern Scotland and if I'm not careful I'll spend more in driving/postage than things are worth. I'll give them a try though cheers.
Darwin, interesting that you think it might be a timing issue - it would certainly explain some things - I'm dropping it at a local engineers tomorrow - I'll post what happens.
Having said that I have no complaints about the quality of his equipment, I'm very pleased with the crankshift kit.
Motorbikemike45 you may be right about Robin UK doing something for goodwill, the problem is I live in the wilds of Northern Scotland and if I'm not careful I'll spend more in driving/postage than things are worth. I'll give them a try though cheers.
Darwin, interesting that you think it might be a timing issue - it would certainly explain some things - I'm dropping it at a local engineers tomorrow - I'll post what happens.
Assuming every thing we have read is accurate, your ignition timing could be off.If the ignition timing is off,you have big problems. If its off it means the flywheel spun on the crank, sometimes it ruins both the crank and the flywheel, sometimes one or the other.In rare cases can you salvage the damaged part.
You can clean up a damaged taper in the flywheel but that is bush league at best considering the flywheel can run upwards of 7000 rpm on these engines.
The key to diagnosing the problem is what could have caused the flywheel to spin.Either it wasn't tight to start with or got loose.
You can clean up a damaged taper in the flywheel but that is bush league at best considering the flywheel can run upwards of 7000 rpm on these engines.
The key to diagnosing the problem is what could have caused the flywheel to spin.Either it wasn't tight to start with or got loose.
loquin
Well-Known Member
As others (BigBlue) mentioned, others (myself included) have had issues with kill switches. Try disconnecting the the kill switch to see if your issue goes away.
I had one of these kill switches from Staton that shorted out. (first image below)
When the switch was not fastened to the handlebar, it was fine. As soon as I tightened the clamp, pressure from the handlebar against the back of the switch caused it to short out again...
He replaced it with one of his High Quality Toggle Switches, (second/third images,) and it's been working fine ever since.
I had one of these kill switches from Staton that shorted out. (first image below)
When the switch was not fastened to the handlebar, it was fine. As soon as I tightened the clamp, pressure from the handlebar against the back of the switch caused it to short out again...
He replaced it with one of his High Quality Toggle Switches, (second/third images,) and it's been working fine ever since.
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Problem Solved!!
Guys, I'm very relieved that the engine is now working - yipee!
Between the local mechanic and Bob from Subaru America we found it was.......
An o-ring from the carburettor sucked into the cylinder and preventing one of the valves from closing properly.
According to Bob it has happened before - I'm still trying to find which bit of the carb it was from.
I'm sorry I did not notice that although there was some compression it wasn't as good as usual, this obviously threw some of you.
Thanks again for all of your help and support - it's nice to have some objective views at at time when you are tearing your hair out!
Cheers, Oban
Guys, I'm very relieved that the engine is now working - yipee!
Between the local mechanic and Bob from Subaru America we found it was.......
An o-ring from the carburettor sucked into the cylinder and preventing one of the valves from closing properly.
According to Bob it has happened before - I'm still trying to find which bit of the carb it was from.
I'm sorry I did not notice that although there was some compression it wasn't as good as usual, this obviously threw some of you.
Thanks again for all of your help and support - it's nice to have some objective views at at time when you are tearing your hair out!
Cheers, Oban
Happy Valley
Active Member
I'm glad you found the answer though it is strange, there aren't any o-rings in the carb itself. There are two in the air filter assembly. One large one that acts as a seal where the carb meets the back of the air filter assembly but I can't see how that could get sucked in, it's larger than the carb throat. The other and probable culprit is a much smaller one that cushions the choke lever but it would have to torn in two to become dislodged.
Curious........had you loosened the air filter assembly at any point prior to having the problem?
Curious........had you loosened the air filter assembly at any point prior to having the problem?
D
Deleted Member 4613
Guest
So you had to disassemble the engine to discover this small piece of debris. Right? Never heard anything like this before. but happy you found it.
BigBlue
Active Member
Glad to heat you found the problem - now go ride the heck out of it!
Chris
AKA: BigBlue
Chris
AKA: BigBlue
From looking at the manual it seems to be the smaller o-ring from the 'check valve plate'
The o ring was still intact with a couple of marks where the valve had closed on it.
The larger o-ring was still in position.
No I hadn't done anything to the engine prior to the problem.
I didn't see it but I believe the o-ring was trapped under the valve so the engine didn't need a full disassembly.
I had already e-mailed Subaru America and they flagged this up as a possible cause (they've seen it before) I'm awaiting a reply to see how to make sure it doesn't happen again.
The o ring was still intact with a couple of marks where the valve had closed on it.
The larger o-ring was still in position.
No I hadn't done anything to the engine prior to the problem.
I didn't see it but I believe the o-ring was trapped under the valve so the engine didn't need a full disassembly.
I had already e-mailed Subaru America and they flagged this up as a possible cause (they've seen it before) I'm awaiting a reply to see how to make sure it doesn't happen again.
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