Careful with those plastic Dio reed blocks and the awesome holding power of thread sealent.

[Benchdweller]

Inspires real confidence when the stiction of thread sealent puts too much torque on the corners and they crumble after a quarter turn.

 

[Captain Rainmaker]

I wonder if maybe the plastic reacted with the sealant and made it brittle.

 

[Benchdweller]

I wonder if maybe the plastic reacted with the sealant and made it brittle.

Possible but even then aviation sealent isn't a very solvent heavy or reactive liquid. I'm wondering that myself yet if it is the case then the plastic isn't really up to the task of fuel contact either.
I'm pretty sure they are ABS which rosin based sealants are otherwise fine for.


The plastic on some of these things is pretty brittle and toyish to begin with. Pretty sure it's just them being low grade ABS molded on old equipment.

You can't use any kind of tread locker on or near plastics! Anything it touches will turn to dust if it's plastic! It has an etching acid in them so the sealer can bond to the micro pours of the metal your using it on "Threads". It also dries out plastic and makes it very brittle just like Captain mentioned as the acid eats the plastic! It's actually the same Chemical solvent used in WD40 funny enough

It wasn't thread locker.

 

[Benchdweller]

I wonder if maybe the plastic reacted with the sealant and made it brittle.

Possible but even then aviation sealent isn't a very solvent heavy or reactive liquid. I'm wondering that myself yet if it is the case then the plastic isn't really up to the task of fuel contact either.
I'm pretty sure they are ABS which rosin based sealants are otherwise fine for.


The plastic on some of these things is pretty brittle and toyish to begin with. Pretty sure it's just them being low grade ABS molded on old equipment.

You can't use any kind of tread locker on or near plastics! Anything it touches will turn to dust if it's plastic! It has an etching acid in them so the sealer can bond to the micro pours of the metal your using it on "Threads". It also dries out plastic and makes it very brittle just like Captain mentioned as the acid eats the plastic! It's actually the same Chemical solvent used in WD40 funny enough

It wasn't thread locker.

 

[Frogslayer]

Possible but even then aviation sealent isn't a very solvent heavy or reactive liquid. I'm wondering that myself yet if it is the case then the plastic isn't really up to the task of fuel contact either.
I'm pretty sure they are ABS which rosin based sealants are otherwise fine for.


The plastic on some of these things is pretty brittle and toyish to begin with. Pretty sure it's just them being low grade ABS molded on old equipment.

It wasn't thread locker.

Did it break putting it together or taking it apart?

 

[Benchdweller]

Did it break putting it together or taking it apart?

A little bit was on the bottom of the threads and the bolt wouldn't slip through when I pulled the block out to wiggle it loose it jusy stuck enough to snap the thin corner off. It wasn't even on the plastic. It's no biggie I was pulling it for a better reed anyway, just funny to me.

 

[Benchdweller]

The material is glass-filled PPA overmolded with Hytrel copolyester TPE to be exact lol! Gas has no effect on TPE. Many thread lockers will eat it. But said you didn't use it, w/e you used i have no clue results! Either way metal internal case reed blocks are not a good idea anyhow.the metal fatigue happens very quickly from all the vibration. They tend to loosen up and fall apart. That's why they don't use them anymore. Even in dirt bikes and stuff they're made out of what you have.

This is NOT glass reinforced. I can promise you that.

 

[Wrench]

Inspires real confidence when the stiction of thread sealent puts too much torque on the corners and they crumble after a quarter turn.

Ya gotta ditch that cheep plastic intake spacer. I see them on everything now. They all break or crack especially the bolt holes break off like yours did.

Buy some Phenolic board sheet and make your own intake spacer. It comes in different thicknesses. AMAZON
Phenolic board I'm talking about is Tan in color and it's layered like plywood But It's not plywood
Reminds me of the stuff electrical board is made out of
Phenolic board is what car guys use for their Hot Rod intake spacers.

I use Phenolic board spacer on my Whizzer M/B intake - Phenolic board is also a heat insulator to keep the heat away from the carb

If your not sure what to buy I'll look up a link for ya

 

[Wrench]

I looked and it's for sale on E bay too, available in different thicknesses

This is the stuff you want - Phenolic Natural Canvas Board - Phenolic Laminate

A picture of the Phenolic Laminate heat insulator I use on my Whizzer carb intake it's only 1/16" thick

A picture of thick Phenolic natural canvas board This stuff is so strong it's machined to make gears and pullies

 

[Wrench]

There is also Carbon Fiber Plate available in different thickness. On E Bay
Carbon Fiber Plate is a great heat insulator too

Here is a pic of 2mm thick red carbon fiber plate.