Chain keeps coming off

[Nahom]

No matter what I do, no matter how far up and down the chain stay I put the chain tensioner, no matter how much I vary the height of that while cylindrical pully the chain keeps coming off the back sprocket- I realise I have been doomed from the beginning because my chainstays are not parallel to the rear wheel and the large sprocket at the back- of course it will come off! The two chainstays meet making a V shape with the corner of the V meeting the bottom of the seattube and the two ends of the V getting wider and wider apart as you go towards the back end of the bike
Ignoring the chainstay When I just use my hand to hold the chain tensioner in a position which is in line with the rear sprocket and wheel- it rolls perfectly and there is no coming off at all- it's definitely the V shape chainstays...
solutions?
simply buy a bike which has parallel chainstays in future?
E.g in this video :

It starts off as a V shape but it eventually becomes parallel so it's ok. Is this the only kind which is suitable?
Cheers

 

[Greg73]

I am dealing with this on my bike, I heated the tensioner stay and tweaked it a bit to get the wheel in line with the chainline. Worth a shot?

 

[Nahom]

I am dealing with this on my bike, I heated the tensioner stay and tweaked it a bit to get the wheel in line with the chainline. Worth a shot?

By tensioner stay you mean the metal thing which you bolt to the chainstay and by wheel you mean the white wheel? Did you use a blowtorch or something- would really appreciate some more details- it'd really be a lifeline?
Got any pics please?
cheers

 

[Nahom]

Alright if my next bike I want to avoid this- does anyone have a recommendation for a particular bike with parallel chainstays that I find on the internet please?

 

[crassius]

most kits seem to come with pulley on wrong side of the long mount, turning that around is often enough to make it work - if that isn't enough, then that long arm can be bent a bit in a vise (sometimes just one extra washer under pulley can work, but this needs to be done carefully)

 

[Greg73]

yes, with torch burning MAPP gas. DON'T breathe the fumes, the galvanizing is toxic. Heated it to dull orange then tweaked it with a crescent wrench. I didn't have to give it very much, in fact I had to straighten it back out a bit on fitting. You would want to paint it afterwards for rust protection. I am a total newb with these little tiddlers, but it seems no matter what bike you get there are going to be some engineering problems to solve....part of the fun!

 

[FurryOnTheInside]

.......no matter what bike you get there are going to be some engineering problems to solve....part of the fun!

I couldn't agree more.
Some of the challenges are "a right bastard" but that just means you get an even greater sense of achievement when you overcome those challenges.

 

[Nahom]

The chain tensioner doesn't really seem to be much of a problem anymore but it's seriously driving me mad now. The wheel is true- the sprocket and rag joint are aligned with chain line. Chain tensioner aligned with tensioner and at the right tension and after fixing rear sprocket problems, now the small engine sprocket caused a problem- the master link got stuck and bent- I had to pry out with a flat head.
I'm wondering is it because I'm not using any lube on the engine chain and engine sprocket? Am I supposed to be and have I made a huge mistake not doing this- is this a must?

 

[crassius]

that link probably got a bit bent at one of the times the chain came off - take a very close look at the whole chain to be sure it is still OK

 

[Nahom]

that link probably got a bit bent at one of the times the chain came off - take a very close look at the whole chain to be sure it is still OK

I have another chain I'll try using that- and also another master link - the one I just used is totally warped and the clip is lost.
Should I add some lube this time too?