Chain stretches up steep hills, pops off. What do?

I'll try to get that as close as possible but it really is the bumps on the side of the road.
If everything is lined up straight and there is not too much chain slack, the chain will NOT just pop off because you hit a bump in the road.

Once again, as has been asked a few times already, POST some pics...If we can see things as they are, we may well be able to spot your problem right away rather than just guessing which is obviously not helpful in trying to help you solve your problem here noyo.
 
Usually chains coming off is due to misalignment. If the line from the drive sprocket to the rear isn't straight, you'll have problems
That was my problem at first because I was having a hard time lining up my tensioner. It kept sliding out of place while I was trying to tighten the bolts and being slightly off the chain would pop right off. Finally got it perfect like the 4th time trying to get it on
 
Got a 415 chain that stretches after going up hill. Clutch engaged it's tight. Clutch disengaged and a bump will make the chain pop off. What do? It's after steep hills and it's the hills I have to pedal help with.

No chain tensioner; using a clip pin and a chain breaker; adjusting the motor mounts every time it needs shortened.


Do they make special sprocket adaptor guards to keep the chain on? Seen them kinda on moped tires. There's metal guards going above the sprocket teeth on the left side and on the right side of the sprocket. Blocking the popping off from the left and the right side. Gotta be heavy duty.

I actually did totally bend my rear axle right after reading that guy's comment. Have to take it in to a bike shop and get it replaced. Going to cost 50$ :( but it's a 12g heavy duty rim so i might order a brand new one.
 
Do they make special sprocket adaptor guards to keep the chain on? Seen them kinda on moped tires. There's metal guards going above the sprocket teeth on the left side and on the right side of the sprocket. Blocking the popping off from the left and the right side. Gotta be heavy duty.

I actually did totally bend my rear axle right after reading that guy's comment. Have to take it in to a bike shop and get it replaced. Going to cost 50$ :( but it's a 12g heavy duty rim so i might order a brand new one.
Make sure a cro-molly axle is installed or you'll just have another bent axle.
 
Do they make special sprocket adaptor guards to keep the chain on? Seen them kinda on moped tires. There's metal guards going above the sprocket teeth on the left side and on the right side of the sprocket. Blocking the popping off from the left and the right side. Gotta be heavy duty.

I actually did totally bend my rear axle right after reading that guy's comment. Have to take it in to a bike shop and get it replaced. Going to cost 50$ :( but it's a 12g heavy duty rim so i might order a brand new one.
Did you look into hub mounted sprocket adapters? it might help getting your alignment perfect, but I know if you don't install them right, it will destroy your spokes.
 
Did you look into hub mounted sprocket adapters? it might help getting your alignment perfect, but I know if you don't install them right, it will destroy your spokes.
Yeah I use the CNC one. Pretty okay imo. Instead of drilling a key way since the adaptor wasn't clamping on the middle metal part, I wrapped some electric tape one hundred times around it. Works perfect. Broke a couple spokes though eventually.
 
Yeah I use the CNC one. Pretty okay imo. Instead of drilling a key way since the adaptor wasn't clamping on the middle metal part, I wrapped some electric tape one hundred times around it. Works perfect. Broke a couple spokes though eventually.
Yeah, electrical tape adhesive gets slimy.

Self vulcanizing tape works much better.
 
Any kind of tape is only going to last so long. You really need some mechanical way to attach those to the hub to get any kind of reliability out of it.
There are a few threads on how to do that.
True, I just installed mine today, I believe it was made in the US and it's got a ton of clamping load, so I'll try it as is.

Optimally I would drill through the hub adapter, into the wheel hub, and tap a bolt to just catch the lip of the wheel axle and loads of locktite.

I removed the coaster brake so no worries there.
 
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