Trouble starting 49mm iron sleeve

I’ll try gapping the stock z4c and NGK br5hs I have to .025 they’re both at around .018 now/ out of the box. I’ll probably keep the stock plug in til I can get a good read on the plug then switch to the ngk I have and see how it looks eventually and whether or not I need to change to a different heat range.
I generally like running a slightly warmer day plug depending on what the engine is happy with.

I may play with the jetting a little more and see if I can get it running a bit smoother.

If I noticed the stuttering again I will keep that in mind. I was planning to adjust the jetting some more anyway.
I actually just got back in from a short ride though, and the stutter is alot less noticeable after gapping the stock z4c spark plug earlier this morning from .018 to .024 while comparing it to the BR5HS I have because I was curious what heat range it was ( seems it’s about a 7 by NGK standards)
I chose the warmer side of “the middle range” as I’ve always preferred/ had good experiences with a warmer plug. In the case of this engine it seems my instincts paid off, after reading the spark plug, it seems I need a warmer plug and the BR5HS should be just right. I will see when I eventually run/ read it.
I will probably stick with the stock plug for the rest of this first tank of gas.

One thing I noticed is the stock spark plug has a shorter reach than the NGK which protrudes a past the threads into the combustion chamber.
To my knowledge the the spark plug threads should be flush with the female threads of the head, not protruding or recessed…
NGK’s spark plug chart says H plugs are 12.7mm reach L plugs are 11.2mm reach which after checking the z4c is closer to the correct length. I have not looked extensively but it seems there is a NGK B5L B6L etc. that should have the correct thread reach which are pretty standard copper core/ nickel electrode. Don’t know if there is a resistor version.
The threads of the plug protruding into the head is why I prefer to run bpmr7a plugs in my Phantom. The thread body is shorter and sits flush with the chamber while the electrode is projected back into the chamber. I run one step colder due to the projected electrode, which tends to behave a bit hotter than a standard one. These are the same plugs stihl uses in their saws so they are also shorter overall and fit tight frames better.
 
The threads of the plug protruding into the head is why I prefer to run bpmr7a plugs in my Phantom. The thread body is shorter and sits flush with the chamber while the electrode is projected back into the chamber. I run one step colder due to the projected electrode, which tends to behave a bit hotter than a standard one. These are the same plugs stihl uses in their saws so they are also shorter overall and fit tight frames better.


Thank you, I’ll check them out and more than likely give them a try.
Bike is running great by the way, fires up first try every ride, running nice and smooth. The plug is definitely too cold, ive been pulling the plug after every other ride or so to wipe off some of the excess O/F mixture because it’s barely burning off. It’ll help some when it’s broken in and I lean it out a little and change the O/F ratio.

Has anybody ran the Fuel in a can? There’s TrueFuel and I think PowerCare here, ive heard bad things about TrueFuel. Its the only way to get unleaded here but definitely expensive at $8-10 for what 1L?
Was thinking about trying some 2 stroke oil called Ethanol Guard that supposedly helps with the Ethanol problems, unfortunately I’d have to order it.

I had a Stihl 028 in excellent condition that ran top notch back about 10 years ago, I had to get rid of it in some hard times for some quick cash but I wish I hadn’t, I’d love another one it was perfect for what I need it for. I don’t have a whole lot of extra cash now so cant afford a good used Stihl or Husqvarna, at least not the models I’d prefer or if so likely not in running condition which I wouldn’t mind just a lack of funds, but I have been looking to pick up a cheap used chainsaw, there’s a small tree I have to cut down and some limbing I need to take care of.
 
Bike is running great by the way, fires up first try every ride, running nice and smooth. The plug is definitely too cold, ive been pulling the plug after every other ride or so to wipe off some of the excess O/F mixture because it’s barely burning off.
Give the bike motor time to at least get broken in first, at least two gas tanks full...Stop pulling the plug every other ride.

Not only will you render useless the spark plug gasket used to retain compression, you will also excessively wear and weaken the "Chinesium" aluminum spark plug threads in the head...You are accomplishing nothing useful by constantly removing the plug every other ride, but instead setting yourself up for very preventable future failure points.

As far as getting Ethanol Free Gasoline, I ran a quick browser check for it in your area and this is where it's claimed to be available...You could confirm this with a simple phone calls to these gas stations on these listings.

Ethanol free fuel available in Bakersfield, California.




Also places near Bakersfield.

Places Near Bakersfield, CA with Shell Ethanol Free Gasoline​

 
Give the bike motor time to at least get broken in first, at least two gas tanks full...Stop pulling the plug every other ride.

Not only will you render useless the spark plug gasket used to retain compression, you will also excessively wear and weaken the "Chinesium" aluminum spark plug threads in the head...You are accomplishing nothing useful by constantly removing the plug every other ride, but instead setting yourself up for very preventable future failure points.

As far as getting Ethanol Free Gasoline, I ran a quick browser check for it in your area and this is where it's claimed to be available...You could confirm this with a simple phone calls to these gas stations on these listings.

Ethanol free fuel available in Bakersfield, California.




Also places near Bakersfield.

Places Near Bakersfield, CA with Shell Ethanol Free Gasoline​

That’s the plan, I believe I said I’ll be doing these things when it’s broken in.
Now I didnt mentioned this; I’m only a 1/4 or so tank in so still have a little ways to go. Unfortunately the fuel line popped off and I lost about half 3/4 + of a tank before I noticed and stopped it. Which is why I’m looking to get some more fuel and oil.

As far as wearing out the head/ plug crush washer , it would take a lot more than pulling the plug out a few times to cause any problems with the threads or the “gasket” Spark plugs are removed quite often in the process of building/ testing, repairing etc. even in racing plugs can be removed after each run and put back in if they’re still good ( unless you’ve got a lot of cash just to blow/ or a high end team with endless spark plugs then you’re probably not going to change them every run). I know plenty of people that reuse plugs and even some that clean up slightly dirtier plugs to be reused especially when it comes to more expensive plugs)
I know this is a cheap Chinese metal head but it’s not that bad/ going to get messed up so easily.

I thought back when I said I pull it every other ride, that was misleading so I apologize.
When I said every other ride, I mean more every other/ few riding sessions. I go out for multiple 15-20 minutes rides letting it cool off a little in between, then I put it away bring it out maybe in the evening go for multiple short rides, and then pull the plug and clean it.

It’s been removed twice so far since I decided to clean it and if I hadnt done so it would be close to being a useless fouled plug…
When I first pulled my plug after just a couple laps around my block to get a read on the spark plug it had a good layer of semi moist Oil/ fuel build up that is beginning to foul the plug
( enough that I would estimate the plug would foul out before I’m even through a full tank of gas and would use at least 3-4 more plugs during break in if I just leave it)
So why let a good plug go bad when I can pull it and spend a few minutes to clean off the excess build up until I’m done with break in. I don’t have or feel like spending more money to foul multiple plugs. Thank you for the concern but I know what I’m doing and it’s for a reason.

I appreciate the help trying to find ethanol free gas online but Ive already done a pretty extensive search multiple times at multiple sources. They’re all pretty much dead ends, Yellow pages shows it has search results but the stations listed don’t have ethanol free gas, even “ethanol free locators” show nothing in the area.
I haven’t called every single gas station in town but a lot of the stations that aren’t too far, I drive a truck that gets 12mi a gal and with gas at close to $5 it’s not worth it to go too far.
 
If you have a Murphy's gas station, (they are a large outfit), they would probably have it...When they came into town a few years ago, they built their new station and at this time, they are the only ones in town to now carry it here in Alamogordo, Murphy's stole everone else ethanol free customers...lol.
 
If you have a Murphy's gas station, (they are a large outfit), they would probably have it...When they came into town a few years ago, they built their new station and at this time, they are the only ones in town to now carry it here in Alamogordo, Murphy's stole everone else ethanol free customers...lol.
Never heard of them, it’s too bad there’s not one here. The only place in the past 15 years I’ve know to have straight gas was the VPRacing station back in Ridgecrest where I lived for a couple years when I left the beach in southern Ca. But I heard even they closed down, don’t know why there are a ton of people in town that bought the gas for their bikes boats and race cars. Even out of towners stoped there a lot as there are a few riding and off-road trails in the area. Even the Barstow guys had been known to pick up fuel there if they were in the area.

I actually know how to separate ethanol from gas but before I do that I’ll probably just try some additives or the oil that has them to help or give the gas in a can off shelf a try.
Although what I’m running now is the 91 with ethanol and it’s not doing too bad,
 
if this is like my last couple 49mm cylinders... check the transfer ports. you may have to open them at the top slightly to match the port roof. the opening itself is lower and acting like a brickwall against the air/fuel charge.
 
if this is like my last couple 49mm cylinders... check the transfer ports. you may have to open them at the top slightly to match the port roof. the opening itself is lower and acting like a brickwall against the air/fuel charge.
The transfers on mine do have have a small lip, All of the ports do actually. Right now I’ve got it running great but eventually I want to port the cylinder.
Actually I’m probably going to order a spare piston/ cylinder in a few minutes so I can port that and still have a running bike while I’m working on it.
 
The transfers on mine do have have a small lip, All of the ports do actually. Right now I’ve got it running great but eventually I want to port the cylinder.
Actually I’m probably going to order a spare piston/ cylinder in a few minutes so I can port that and still have a running bike while I’m working on it.
id get it from ebay, the piston... twice ive ordered the $12 so called 49mm piston from amazon and got 50s. the little bearing spacers they come with are nice tho.. lol
 
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