Trouble starting 49mm iron sleeve

[Chainlube]

You can sand that ridge down. Tape a sheet of sandpaper to a piece of glass and run the head on the paper in a figure 8 pattern. Go slow and keep it flat.

Did you check your squish on that head? That head looks like it would have great potential.

 

[Mc2Stroke]

i meant to make another update last night, but when i looked now it was still unposted here in the box for typing.

There was a small dent/ nick on the intake gasket surface, filed it flatter than it was with a hand file unfortunately the dent was pretty deep, it should be good now though. I know it was previously tight because the stupid round end nuts only go so far.
After noting there was gas/ oil seepage on the head and base gaskets I made sure to break out the torque wrench. I did re tap the spark plug hole which is now smooth as butter when putting the spark plug in and it seats fully.

It’s all back together and in the bike, just have to reconnect the wires and try to fire it up.
Hoping now it works as there should hopefully no longer be massive air leaks at the base, head gasket and intake gasket.

First a little nap, I was up for quite a few hours working on this through the night.

You can sand that ridge down. Tape a sheet of sandpaper to a piece of glass and run the head on the paper in a figure 8 pattern. Go slow and keep it flat.

Did you check your squish on that head? That head looks like it would have great potential.

There are multiple ridges on the head and from the imprint on the head gasket I can tell they are complete rings, guess they thought they might help with sealing??? Anyway no I left them for now, I know about the sandpaper/ glass or other flat surface ( I have a granite slab not sure if it’s flat enough) no glass sheet and out of big sheets of sandpaper too.

Thought about checking squish but only have solid plumbing solder, planning to find some resin core stuff to use for that.

 

[ImpulseRocket]

In the future, if you find yourself with a damaged flange that requires a lot of material removal as you describe, you can alternatively use a repair epoxy like JB Weld to fill in the damaged spot before filing. It's perfect for stuff like that.

 

[DAMIEN1307]

stupid round end nuts only go so far.

Most of us throw out those rounded top acorn nuts and just use regular nuts along with lock washers.

The acorn nuts are notorious for bottoming out on the end of the stud before it is ever really tight on the head.

 

[Chainlube]

If the gouge, scratch doesn't go all the way across the mating surface, I just use some high pressure sealant.

In the future, if you find yourself with a damaged flange that requires a lot of material removal as you describe, you can alternatively use a repair epoxy like JB Weld to fill in the damaged spot before filing. It's perfect for stuff like that.

 

[Mc2Stroke]

In the future, if you find yourself with a damaged flange that requires a lot of material removal as you describe, you can alternatively use a repair epoxy like JB Weld to fill in the damaged spot before filing. It's perfect for stuff like that.

You know, that is a great idea… I’ve actually done that on other projects ( ie. most recently, filling a hole i drilled in something I shouldn’t have)
Don’t know why it didn’t cross my mind to do that last night. I know some people have used it to stuff cases, even getting creative using it while porting heads. Some question reliability when used in the cylinder but seems there been quite a few cases it seemed to work well.
Anyway thank you the tip, I obviously would have completely forgot otherwise.

 

[Mc2Stroke]

Most of us throw out those rounded top acorn nuts and just use regular nuts along with lock washers.

The acorn nuts are notorious for bottoming out on the end of the stud before it is ever really tight on the head.

I hate those things, the first thing I did when I knew I was going to be getting one of these engines was get some belleville spring washers and regular nuts.
I’ll have to get the correct size for the intake.

 

[Mc2Stroke]

If the gouge, scratch doesn't go all the way across the mating surface, I just use some high pressure sealant.

I was going to use some black oil resistant permatex but the tube I had dried out.

Maybe I’m just a little slow but what are you referring to by high pressure sealant?
The only thing I can think of is high pressure thread sealant for hydraulic fittings.

 

[Chainlube]

I was going to use some black oil resistant permatex but the tube I had dried out.

Maybe I’m just a little slow but what are you referring to by high pressure sealant?
The only thing I can think of is high pressure thread sealant for hydraulic fittings.

I use it more as general purpose sealant that is oil resistant. It is mostly used for cases on modern cars and trucks.

I will coat a gasket with it and let it set up, then it will just meld into a scratch or mark.

 

[Mc2Stroke]

I use it more as general purpose sealant that is oil resistant. It is mostly used for cases on modern cars and trucks.

I will coat a gasket with it and let it set up, then it will just meld into a scratch or mark.

Oh ok, I was thinking maybe there was some new/ or undiscovered product I was missing out on. I’ve definitely never heard of it used like that but sounds like it could be worth a try.

One thing interesting about forums is reading about all the little tips and tricks and methods that other people use that are different from what I use or the people I’ve been able to learn from in the past.