Thanks for the information, seriously, thank you.
I have a torque wrench. I'm hesitant to use it because I was torquing the rear sprocket bolts to spec and snapped one.
Here is the actual correct proceedure for installing the rear sprocket with rag joints to spoked wheels.
Installing the Rear Sprocket:
Installing the Rear Sprocket is the first task required because the alignment between the Rear Sprocket
and the Motor is key to where the motor needs to sit in the frame and whether or not the Rear Wheel
needs to be offset. Before fitting the Rear Sprocket, make sure the Spokes are in good condition and are
tight, and that the Wheel runs true. The extra weight of the motor on the bike and the power produced,
puts extra stress on the wheel so it needs to be in top condition. The motor weighs roughly the same as
the bike, so you are effectively doubling the total mass! Your local Bike Shop can true the Wheel for you
or there are some good ‘HowTo’ articles available on the Web. Also, is the rear tyre up to the task?
1. Find the two Rear Sprocket rubber packing pieces. Cut only one of
them between the drilled holes, as shown image right.
2. Place the cut packing piece inside the spokes.
3. Place the other packing piece on the outside of the spokes.
4. Place the metal support segments against the rubber inside the wheel
and the sprocket on the outside, with the teeth offset inwards. That is,
the step on the teeth is towards the wheel spokes. Overlap the split
of the inner rubber with one of the plates (see images below).
NOTE: Some bikes with large tyres may need to be Sprocket reversed.
5. Push the nine bolts through the sprocket, outer rubber, the inner rubber and finally the support pieces.
6. Place washers and nuts on the bolts and tighten them so
the assembly is loosely held together with light pressure
on the spokes. All nuts need to have the same amount of
thread protruding.
7. Align sprocket and center hub so the gap is even all
round. Use a block of wood and a hammer against the
teeth to tap the sprocket into position, if necessary.
(Image right shows misaligned sprocket).
8. Tighten the nuts and bolts 2 full turns in a criss–cross or
star pattern and check the hub alignment again and
adjust if necessary Tighten the nuts and bolts another
full turn moving in a star fashion across the sprocket.
9. Repeat this process twice more, checking the alignment
as you go. The nuts should now be tight enough to hold
the sprocket firmly against the spokes but have some
flexing in the drive direction.
10. Spin the wheel and check that the sprocket runs true. Run out of more than 1.5mm may cause the chain to bind
and even jam or jump off the sprocket. Correct any side-to-side wobble by tightening the nuts where the
sprocket is further from the spokes to pull the sprocket back into alignment, and slacken the nuts on the
opposite side a fraction, if necessary. If there is a gap between the two rubbers, tighten all the nuts evenly,
until the rubbers are just touching. NOTE: Do not over tighten the nuts, the rubbers give some degree of
shock absorption, so If over-tight this will not happen. If there is still some run-out, use a large shifting
spanner to bend the section of sprocket giving trouble. You do not need to use much force to do this,
11. Place the wheel in the bike frame and install it as indicated in the bicycle instruction manual. At this time leave
the axle retaining nuts finger tight, they will be tightened later when the drive chain alignment is set. Check the
wheel and sprocket run true and adjust if necessary. Make any further adjustments as necessary.
motoredbikes.com
