clutch problems (i think)

[blckwlfny1]

I would appreciate any and all help n this:
the clutch handle feels very easy to pull and i dont seem to be able to pull the handle far enough to fully engage it. so i took the lever off of the motor, lifted it off of the notched post that goes down iton the sprocket cover, moved the lever counter clockwise a bit and replaced the whole shebang. now the clutch will fully engage, but it seems to be slipping and wont "grab" on the engine enough to start up.
is this because its loose?
how can i fix this?
how can i prevent this in the future?
i dont think the clutch is worn down yet, the motor isnt even broken in
thanks guys

 

[dougsr.874]

where did you get this engine?

 

[blckwlfny1]

Its a skyhawk.
Got it from custommotoredbicycles.com they've always done alright by me

 

[Sgt. Howard]

Let's try this- you ARE aware of the adjustments on the handle and cabletag where the cable attatches to the clutch lever, right? Put the lever back to it's origional position, loosen up the cable nut and pull a bit more cable through the nut before you tighten- see if THAT does not solve the issue. If not, there is a screw cup with locknut right at the clutch handle- back out the cup and push the bike with the clutch handle pulled- eventually, you ought to be able to move the bike if you back out the screw cup far enough. Once you like what you have, tighten the cup with the locknut.
BTW- when the motor and chain are locked together, the clutch is ENGAGED. When the motor and chain are independant of each other, the clutch is DIS-ENGAGED- you had your terminology a little backwards there.
the Old Sgt.

 

[blckwlfny1]

Thank you Sarge.
Tried what you suggested. The problem does not seem to be with the cable. It seems that no matter how far I turn the clutch lever (on the motor) it now does not fully engage (new terminology )and does not grab the motor enought to start the bike.

 

[Sgt. Howard]

Hmmm.... pulling the clutch lever on the motor to the right of the bicycle should DIS-engage the clutch- allowing it to fall back without cable tension should have the clutch engaged. Somewhere between the two extreems there is a position where it will be engaged when the lever on the handlebar is released, yet dis-engaged when the lever on the handlebar is pulled and/or locked- notice the aluminum knob on the handle base, that will lock it in dis-engage when depressed.
I realise that this might sound remarkably rudimentary to many out there, but remember that this guy's (blckwlfny) total education on this sort of a system might well be those crystal clear instructions that we get with the HT motor and it's variants. I am a gunsmith- been one since 1965. I have re-built an 1879 GATLING! Done auto and motorcycle work since high school. Those instructions confused ME!!!! Has ANYBODY done a re-write on those stupid things that an english-speaking person can understand?
the Old Sgt.

 

[blckwlfny1]

Apparently I'm better at describing the workings of the MG 42's rollers locking into battery. A necessity on an open bolt like that. (Turns out I had a problem with the ejector spoon)
ANYWAY...the clutch still don't work....and I don't know why. Clutch won't fully ENGAGE the motor...any suggestion?....Sarge?...anyone? I have a 75lb paperweight in my garage.
Addendum: I took the clutch housing cover off and about 4oz of fuel fell out. Previously, I had left the petcock open but how d it get in there? Could that explain the problem?
Thanks

 

[Sgt. Howard]

... you own a class III?!?... er, anyway... if the clutch will not engage with the cable dis-connected, I suspect the fuel mixture in the housing might have played mischief with your clutch face. Does anybody know if a new clutch can be purchased for these things? I would call Spooky Tooth, they seem the most savvy AND user-freindly of the lot (a bit pricey, but they stand behind their services and merchandise). Let the wretched thing dry off a bit, try it one more time to see what is going on- it might be toast or it might be alright, I really do not know. Without the cable connected, you should be able to crank the engine by the wheel- if so, then it is all a matter of adjusting the control. If not, you are looking at a new clutch. As there is a removal tool with the kit (never used it, not sure how it works) I can only assume it can be replaced.
... and yes, the roller operation of the MG 42 is rather critical, especially given it's high rate of fire- unless I am completly in error, this is HOW it can achieve it's high rate of fire. Personally I would hate to have been the ammo bearer for this beastie...
the Old Sgt.