Continued Learning

[Timbone]

Since I finish my build last month, I find I continue to learn. Here are some ideas I hope some will find helpful:

The stock spark plug boots are not up to the job. I went to AutoZone and got an automotive quality single boot that pressure fits into the spark plug cap. And it only cost a couple bucks! The cheapo kit plug boot was eating the threads off the spark plug stem. I cut the spark plug wire to the proper size, screwed the end into the CDI and used pliers to crimp the fitting into the spark plug. That ain't coming off!

I prefer the RT Delorrto clone carb to the stock NT. Knowing that the air filter tends to work itself loose, I attached a very small zip tie to it to make sure I wouldn't lose it. Well, a few days ago, it popped off. I did some tests and learned that there was a tiny sweet spot for tightening the hose clamp. Any more than a certain pressure and it would jump off. Less pressure and it pops off! Screw it! I chucked the whole thing. Result: my bike is flying! With the air filter, I wasn't getting the power I expected at top end. No 4 stroking, but maybe 5000 rpm. I figured my jet choice was too lean and it wouldn't have the power to turn the 40T sprocket. Wrong! It just needed a bit more air. I am working on a generic air filter that is effectively a screen as sure don't want any big stuff getting in there.

Loctite locktite locktite. Blue is needed nearly everywhere. Especially check your crank bolts. Make an exception for spokes because if one breaks you don't want to fight it off. Also, they need periodic adjustment. Use a grabby oil like linseed or tung.

I made a jackshaft to move the motor chain left for good alignment. I am stunned at how much damage the 415 chain takes on the short run from motor to jackshaft. Inspect it every day. The short run of chain from jackshaft to motor doesn't take nearly as much abuse and it is a huge advantage to not need a tensioner.

Last bit of advice: don't forget to open the fuel valve before you start up!

 

[FurryOnTheInside]

Some good stuff there I can apply to my build. I had forgotten about the plug boot/wire as originally planned to get the Jaguar cdi which I think comes with one.
I will also follow your advice on no cheap aftermarket air filter. I had read that some are actually restrictive. I'd like to come up with something snorkel/trumpet-like between the seat tube and fender where I currently have a great little bag for pump and patch kit.
Oh man, crank bolts.. you reminded me of the night I spent trying to sleep in a pile of plastic packaging I pulled out of a dumpster, waiting for the stores to open in the morning, all because I had neglected to pack the rarely useful 8mm allen key!

 

[Frankenstein]

That Dellorto clone is a cast metal, they all seem to be susceptible to soldering and a couple I put some silver solder 'beads' 5 or 6 along the edge of the rim where that hose clamp goes, keeps the filter clamped on towards the right direction.

That stock filter I found it gets soaked in oil, for some reason the engine burps back a bit and oil/fuel splatters back out to the filter, which clogs the filter up. It's either the carb, or just something that happens with certain set ups, but I noticed I always just kept happening with the Dellorto, while the Cns carb doesn't have this problem at all, and I notice it's not as bad when you have a reed valve.

 

[Timbone]

Some good stuff there I can apply to my build. I had forgotten about the plug boot/wire as originally planned to get the Jaguar cdi which I think comes with one.
!

If you ever look at the stock spark plug boot, it has a seat where a threaded socket sits in, pressured by a dinky little spring.

I thought I was so smart. I screwed in the spark plug and drew it up tight. Then I screwed on the spark plug boot after I had loosened it from the CDI. Then I screwed the CDI tight onto the spark plug wire before affixing it to the seat tube. What could possibly go wrong?

Well, I found that the threaded spark plug boot would simply eat the threads off the spark plug boot. That's most unwanted when you're zipping down the highway in traffic at 35mph and you suddenly lose power! Unacceptable.

Whatever you do, make sure to come up with a good attachment to the spark plug that allows keeping the spark plug cap.

 

[Street Ryderz]

If you ever look at the stock spark plug boot, it has a seat where a threaded socket sits in, pressured by a dinky little spring.

I thought I was so smart. I screwed in the spark plug and drew it up tight. Then I screwed on the spark plug boot after I had loosened it from the CDI. Then I screwed the CDI tight onto the spark plug wire before affixing it to the seat tube. What could possibly go wrong?

Well, I found that the threaded spark plug boot would simply eat the threads off the spark plug boot. That's most unwanted when you're zipping down the highway in traffic at 35mph and you suddenly lose power! Unacceptable.

Whatever you do, make sure to come up with a good attachment to the spark plug that allows keeping the spark plug cap.

I know exactly what your saying here that little connector is frail also SO many times I had customers with no spark issues that they cant find and it's that stock cap and connector!I have seen that brass connector popped out of the threads and the little spring not or intermitantly make contact.Or the wire retainer in there is misaligned or it's broke altogether.If you have ample plug wire length and for any reason the connection in the boot is questioned just heat the wire end and shove it right on the threads of the plug works in a pinch!