Dual Drive Hub

[ibdennyak]

Ok not to sound stupid but im lookign for a solution to whats a hybriped is it a jackshaft or hub kit

Not stupid at all. Merely the result of my spending entirely too much time here rather than do something useful...like....um.....ahhhh....oh well, guess I'm just not useful anymore. Anyway he is one of our sponsors (click on hybriped on the left) who markets a kit to disengage the sprocket on a left drive set up. The purpose is to be able to pedal the bike without drivetrain drag, but might be adaptable for what you have in mind.

 

[DuctTapedGoat]

The hybriped basically mounts the same way the stock sprocket mounts, but you can remove two lockpins from it for pedaling and the sprocket just spins in place. It's basically a ragjoint kit but with better mounts. It's a cool idea, but like I said, it's not the solution I need. It would be a solution to a situation where you pedal a lot and don't like the drag through the clutch, and you don't care how the sprocket mounts. I'm specifically looking for the "dual drive" threaded hub, which I've found one of at staton-inc.com, but now I'm trying to find something cheaper. It wouldn't be shipping out until tomorrow at the earliest, so I figure I may as well shop around first.

http://www.staton-inc.com/store/products/Rear_36_Hole_14_gage_Hub_Left_and_right_hand_threads-885-27.html

 

[loquin]

I know that the Wheelmaster likes staton's hub; He's used them in his 9 gage based wheels before.

If you had the Staton Hub, a 36H Mammoth BFR rim, and had the Wheelmaster build the wheel, it would be totally bulletproof.

 

[DuctTapedGoat]

Hrmmm. Regretting using Staton-Inc's 'express checkout' instead of registering with them first. Ordered very very early Monday morning, took my money immediately, but I have yet to receive a confirmation email from Staton-Inc at all. I contacted them, and asked them when I would be receiving one via email a few minutes ago. I'll post again when I find out, just in case someone else ever wonders this same thing in the future. As well, I'll post some pics of the final wheel build, and I've decided I'm going to go with a dual single sprocket/dual freewheel setup without a pull start, so it's only going to be able to start in reverse via compression, but it'll keep things smaller, less weight and fewer moving parts, so it's going to be worth it. Just going to have to be sure to red locktite the drivechain sprocket on the threads.

 

[curtisfox]

Hrmmm. Regretting using Staton-Inc's 'express checkout' instead of registering with them first. Ordered very very early Monday morning, took my money immediately, but I have yet to receive a confirmation email from Staton-Inc at all. I contacted them, and asked them when I would be receiving one via email a few minutes ago. I'll post again when I find out, just in case someone else ever wonders this same thing in the future. As well, I'll post some pics of the final wheel build, and I've decided I'm going to go with a dual single sprocket/dual freewheel setup without a pull start, so it's only going to be able to start in reverse via compression, but it'll keep things smaller, less weight and fewer moving parts, so it's going to be worth it. Just going to have to be sure to red locktite the drivechain sprocket on the threads.

If you are talking about red locktite the free wheel you don't have to. It is self tightning thats the purpose of the left threads

 

[DuctTapedGoat]

Oh wow! You're right - I know that it tightens when it torques, but my dumb self was thinking that when I'm doing a reverse compression start it would loosen, but due to the reverse threading that would tighten it! I can't think of anything wrong with this setup now, with the one exception being that to start I would have to reverse compression start. But, that's a sacrifice I'm willing to take for full pedal power and long lasting wheels.

 

[curtisfox]

I don't have one of these engines so I am intrested how you can start them in reverse I will be watching.............Curt

 

[DuctTapedGoat]

I recently acquired a girlfriend who came with a video camera, so I'll take a quick video of me firing it up once everything comes in and gets installed.

 

[DuctTapedGoat]

Awesome! Just got a hold of Staton-Inc, turns out they were out of stock, but their order just came in and it's getting sent out today! Should be here Friday or Saturday, I'll take the wheel in to get laced Monday, and hopefully I can get this new build going by the middle of next week!

 

[DuctTapedGoat]

Brain freeze...

What kind of engine do you have. Pull start I hope?

So... I've been thinking about this way too long.

I went out to replace my friction pads, and figured while I'm setting the plate, I may as well try and reverse start - not happening. I coulda sworn I've done it before, but it's okay. I got to thinking about how this is going to work... and now I'm REALLY confused cause there's so much CW and CCW movement with the sprockets and the drive and the wheel and the freewheels, I got all muddled.

Now I can't even think which direction is up and which is down anymore - I'm starting to think that the freewheel is going to act differently when the clutch is engaged. Obviously, I need to drink some coffee and relax, but it's buggin the daylights out of me.

So, as of yet with that clutch business aside, my best idea is this!!!

I drill into the freewheel, right inbetween the outer ring that is the sprocket and between the inner ring that is the freewheel casing. Not far, just far enough to break through the casing. Then, I make a simple ball jointed lock pin that I can put in and take out as I please. This would give me the same effect as the hybriped, but with the perk of being threaded onto a hub.

Of course, if it works and I don't destroy it, I will make two more lockpin points to have the lockpins set in the shape of a triangle. The hard part is going to be finding 2mm - 3mm lockpins, the rest is easy.