Electrically conductive glue

FurryOnTheInside

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EDIT: I feel I should let readers know at the start that this thread doesn't contain information on the use of conductive glue. It does contain tips on learning to solder.


Okay my soldering skills suck, I admit it. :eek: It is just not one of my skills and I have not been bothering to practice like I should have done. I can't get the bloody wire to stay on the damn magneto, I'm not getting anywhere and I'm only making myself frustrated and stinking my apartment out with flux smoke.. :mad::oops:
So is electrically conductive glue the answer? o_O
I see it on eBay listed as model railway set wiring glue "no soldering!" And as PCB repair glue. Will it hold? Will it resist the vibration and is it suitable for the voltage? o_O
I'm sure it can't be much worse than my soldered joints. :oops::oops:
 
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YouTube is your friend, watch some videos on soldering, you'll be glad you did. Not too confident with this conductive glue you speak of.
 
YouTube is your friend, watch some videos on soldering, you'll be glad you did. Not too confident with this conductive glue you speak of.
Oh I did! Thanks for the suggestion but I'm sure nothing short of practice will help me get this right.
It's a learned skill, I believe, and I'm too close to my intended first ride "deadline" to learn this skill now. :oops:

I think I'm going to try the electrically conductive glue and then some JB Weld epoxy resin over it. Just wanted to hear any thoughts on the stuff, or suggestions for alternatives.
 
I would try to make some sort of mechanical connection and maybe just hold that connection tight with the glue. It may also be time to call in some reinforcements. You surely know someone with some soldering prowess.
 
if you are trying to solder the little pigtail wire to the armature, you may find it easier to solder a longer wire to the pigtail, then put a connector on the other end to go under a magneto screw
 
if you are trying to solder the little pigtail wire to the armature, you may find it easier to solder a longer wire to the pigtail, then put a connector on the other end to go under a magneto screw
I don't really know what you mean by the little pigtail wire I guess the short black wire on the magneto that goes to a rivet. It seems to be a single thick filament and it looks okay so I'll leave it on, but I will double up if I can/need to.
My blue wire had a lot of broken filaments, I could see it had been carelessly stripped so it needed to be replaced anyway, and then it actually cracked off the um.. flat bit it was soldered to.. is that the armature? Otherwise I would have left some of it there. So I have a bare (armature?) bit to try to stick the new 16g "blue" wire to. That's the only part I have attempted to do. I just couldn't get the wire to stick to the flat surface. It's a skill I'll have to learn when I have more time.

I have a little short bit of the black wire still soldered where the black wire was. It seems secure and I thought it will be easier to get the new wire to stick to that and the existing solder than try to remove it and risk pulling the short wire off too.
Nothing attaches to a screw as far as I can see. I will attach something to a screw if you advise me I should. :)

IMG_20170925_003143.jpg
 
OK well before you get really toasty take the wire and dip the end in the Flux first, get a bead of solder on the iron and touch it to the fluxed wire, it will wet right on it.

Put a tiny bit of Flux on the part you'll solder the wire too and get yet another bit of solder on the gun and touch that to the point you'll solder to, once the solder wets to that introduce the wire to the hot point or even press it to it with the iron. Once they meld pull the iron and don't move the wire until its solid (a second or 2 usually and don't blow on it if it's still liquid you'll just blow the wet solder off.

Feel free to add a tiny bit of solder to the joint if it doesn't have an actual layer holding the wire down, you'll want the joint to look like the one in your picture.

The most important part is touching the object with the iron and not just the drop of solder, you need to get the object to be nearly the same temp as what it takes to melt the solder to get it to wet to the surface.
 
OK well before you get really toasty take the wire and dip the end in the Flux first, get a bead of solder on the iron and touch it to the fluxed wire, it will wet right on it.

Put a tiny bit of Flux on the part you'll solder the wire too and get yet another bit of solder on the gun and touch that to the point you'll solder to, once the solder wets to that introduce the wire to the hot point or even press it to it with the iron. Once they meld pull the iron and don't move the wire until its solid (a second or 2 usually and don't blow on it if it's still liquid you'll just blow the wet solder off.

Feel free to add a tiny bit of solder to the joint if it doesn't have an actual layer holding the wire down, you'll want the joint to look like the one in your picture.

The most important part is touching the object with the iron and not just the drop of solder, you need to get the object to be nearly the same temp as what it takes to melt the solder to get it to wet to the surface.
I appreciate your efforts to help me with soldering but I don't really want to try again this week. I'll definitely get back to it sometime this winter as I think it's a skill worth having but for right now it's just not enjoyable enough.
So what do you think of electrically conductive glue? If it actually works then perhaps it is something that I can carry on the bike too, for repairs far from home, without resorting to trying to solder with a cigarette lighter lol
 
I appreciate your efforts to help me with soldering but I don't really want to try again this week. I'll definitely get back to it sometime this winter as I think it's a skill worth having but for right now it's just not enjoyable enough.
So what do you think of electrically conductive glue? If it actually works then perhaps it is something that I can carry on the bike too, for repairs far from home, without resorting to trying to solder with a cigarette lighter lol
I purposely gave you tips on what to do as I also doubt that the glue is an acceptable replacement, like how I feel about most things that come in a tube and are intended to replace skills or other well known solutions to problems I would say it's more of a gimmick than anything.

In model trains and stuff like that where there is a super tiny or no vibration at all then sure a glue can probably get by. In an engine with heat, comparatively more vibration, and in an environment that has a high chance of coming into contact with rather powerful solvents while being subjected to heat an vibration? Well I just don't think glue is exactly a good choice for something like that but you are more than welcome to test it out.

Tell me does the glue (and chances of it not working) cost less than a magneto? If not then I see an even better reason not to bother.

Your soldering iron might be a piece of s**t too, or it may need tinning, if the tip is just black and covered in burnt Flux (which is likely since you may have gone overboard with it while smoking the apt out) then you'll have a very difficult time getting the workpiece up to temp. If I'm lazy or don't have tin I scrape the first few millimeters of the tip clean with a razorblade while hot and wet it with the solder. If you started with an old iron you used before and left even a bit of acid Flux on it for a year or two it could just be that it corroded the tip and prevented you from soldering properly.

If you weren't using small gauge wire I wouldn't think something else was wrong, generally anything smaller than and including 14 gauge wire will take solder extremely quickly, especially the stranded core type, as long as you have the right amount of Flux and don't cook the flux before putting solder on it (lot of people seem to suggest adding Flux first and heating it then introducing solder, if I really think I have to heat it before I put solder on I'll heat it, give a quick dip in Flux and hit it immediately with solder on a hot iron rather than adding the solder after the iron's already on it.

I also started tearing apart things and playing doctor on circuit boards with an iron when I less than 10 years old, so maybe it just seems easy to me lol..

You could also build up a bead of solder on the tab you want to solder the wire to, after its there dip a clean portion (like newly stripped) of the wire in Flux lightly and when you have the bead molten on the tab just stick the end of the wire into it and it may just adhere to it like that, there are some wires you just can't overheat before soldering or they will oxidize past what the flux can strip off.
 
I purposely gave you tips on what to do as I also doubt that the glue is an acceptable replacement, like how I feel about most things that come in a tube and are intended to replace skills or other well known solutions to problems I would say it's more of a gimmick than anything.

In model trains and stuff like that where there is a super tiny or no vibration at all then sure a glue can probably get by. In an engine with heat, comparatively more vibration, and in an environment that has a high chance of coming into contact with rather powerful solvents while being subjected to heat an vibration? Well I just don't think glue is exactly a good choice for something like that but you are more than welcome to test it out.

Tell me does the glue (and chances of it not working) cost less than a magneto? If not then I see an even better reason not to bother.

Your soldering iron might be a piece of sh*t too, or it may need tinning, if the tip is just black and covered in burnt Flux (which is likely since you may have gone overboard with it while smoking the apt out) then you'll have a very difficult time getting the workpiece up to temp. If I'm lazy or don't have tin I scrape the first few millimeters of the tip clean with a razorblade while hot and wet it with the solder. If you started with an old iron you used before and left even a bit of acid Flux on it for a year or two it could just be that it corroded the tip and prevented you from soldering properly.

If you weren't using small gauge wire I wouldn't think something else was wrong, generally anything smaller than and including 14 gauge wire will take solder extremely quickly, especially the stranded core type, as long as you have the right amount of Flux and don't cook the flux before putting solder on it (lot of people seem to suggest adding Flux first and heating it then introducing solder, if I really think I have to heat it before I put solder on I'll heat it, give a quick dip in Flux and hit it immediately with solder on a hot iron rather than adding the solder after the iron's already on it.

I also started tearing apart things and playing doctor on circuit boards with an iron when I less than 10 years old, so maybe it just seems easy to me lol..

You could also build up a bead of solder on the tab you want to solder the wire to, after its there dip a clean portion (like newly stripped) of the wire in Flux lightly and when you have the bead molten on the tab just stick the end of the wire into it and it may just adhere to it like that, there are some wires you just can't overheat before soldering or they will oxidize past what the flux can strip off.

Epoxy works for waterproofing the magneto though? "Potting the coil"?
Yes it is cheaper than a new magneto and it will arrive much sooner too.
I still have the old magneto from the kit though it is a bit old and discoloured.. I think it has rusted somewhere. But I still have to connect it to the CDI wires.. and then I'll have no spare.

I had trouble with just about every part of it. Yes the tip got black a few times, though it is a brand new soldering iron. The flux burns instantly when touched by the clean tip, though with the wire as hot as I can get it the flux doesn't even melt. :(
I even resorted to scraping the flux to get some dust and then sprinkling the wire with it. I know that isn't the way, to do it and isn't supposed to be necessary. :oops: I have just been finding it very difficult to heat the wire or the tab. :(
When I can get some solder on the tab it cools down fast and I can't get it hot again and bring the wire into contact with it fast enough. :(
When I can get the wire to stick at all it's just in one tiny bit and the rest is all bent away from the tab and then I have trouble closing the gap because the wire is stiff from the mis-placed solder sticking to the wrong side of it. :confused:
It's a bit like you're giving me written instructions on how to weld, or throw a perfect vase on a potter's wheel! I just have to practice, practice, practice, and it is going to take time.

So I'm going to buy the glue to try for now, and then at least I'll know and I will post a reply about the outcome. :)
 
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