I appreciate your efforts to help me with soldering but I don't really want to try again this week. I'll definitely get back to it sometime this winter as I think it's a skill worth having but for right now it's just not enjoyable enough.
So what do you think of electrically conductive glue? If it actually works then perhaps it is something that I can carry on the bike too, for repairs far from home, without resorting to trying to solder with a cigarette lighter lol
I purposely gave you tips on what to do as I also doubt that the glue is an acceptable replacement, like how I feel about most things that come in a tube and are intended to replace skills or other well known solutions to problems I would say it's more of a gimmick than anything.
In model trains and stuff like that where there is a super tiny or no vibration at all then sure a glue can probably get by. In an engine with heat, comparatively more vibration, and in an environment that has a high chance of coming into contact with rather powerful solvents while being subjected to heat an vibration? Well I just don't think glue is exactly a good choice for something like that but you are more than welcome to test it out.
Tell me does the glue (and chances of it not working) cost less than a magneto? If not then I see an even better reason not to bother.
Your soldering iron might be a piece of s**t too, or it may need tinning, if the tip is just black and covered in burnt Flux (which is likely since you may have gone overboard with it while smoking the apt out) then you'll have a very difficult time getting the workpiece up to temp. If I'm lazy or don't have tin I scrape the first few millimeters of the tip clean with a razorblade while hot and wet it with the solder. If you started with an old iron you used before and left even a bit of acid Flux on it for a year or two it could just be that it corroded the tip and prevented you from soldering properly.
If you weren't using small gauge wire I wouldn't think something else was wrong, generally anything smaller than and including 14 gauge wire will take solder extremely quickly, especially the stranded core type, as long as you have the right amount of Flux and don't cook the flux before putting solder on it (lot of people seem to suggest adding Flux first and heating it then introducing solder, if I really think I have to heat it before I put solder on I'll heat it, give a quick dip in Flux and hit it immediately with solder on a hot iron rather than adding the solder after the iron's already on it.
I also started tearing apart things and playing doctor on circuit boards with an iron when I less than 10 years old, so maybe it just seems easy to me lol..
You could also build up a bead of solder on the tab you want to solder the wire to, after its there dip a clean portion (like newly stripped) of the wire in Flux lightly and when you have the bead molten on the tab just stick the end of the wire into it and it may just adhere to it like that, there are some wires you just can't overheat before soldering or they will oxidize past what the flux can strip off.