Engine does not fire up (ignite)

[Wrench]

I forgot to mention. Timing is set at standard dot.to.dot at TDC. Both valve clearance set at .012"

Thanks for all the info. I just pulled the motor, it’s easier to work on when out of the frame. Going to start checking all the settings

There's no need to take the RH side cover off to line up the timing dots before setting the valve lash
Besides the RH side cover has to be on to hold the cam in place
Set the valve lash as I explained in post #9

 

[Risk Man]

I have a new spark plug and a new coil, producing a strong spark. A new carburetor with new fuel and air filters. The head and cylinder base have been resurfaced. New copper head gasket, new rings. I tried pedaling then disengaged the automatic clutch and turned the engine over using an electric drill on the crank shaft. Not even a splutter! Totally frustrated and about to throw in the towel.

I bought this 2007 SE5 used but not running as the throttle and cable into the carb were broken. Any advise will be appreciated.

I don't hear you mention anything about pulling the compression release lever. The auto clutch has a one-way pully that when the wheels (and pedals) move forward the clutch is engaged. You can freely move the bike in reverse without pulling in the compression release leaver as the clutch will not be engaged. Most of us start the bike on its stand with the back wheel off the ground. First kick is with the choke on (if it does not start, choke off or it can flood) You hold the compression release lever in and with the left pedal just past the top you push down on the pedal (kick start) and then release the compression release lever and give it some gas with the twist grip.

If you are going to pedal start, you need to have the compression release lever pulled in while pedaling and at reasonable speed, release the compression lever to turn the engine over. Not sure how you "disengage" the auto clutch... it is always engage in forward motion.

Excuse me for the basics here (maybe I missed you mentioning this) and not trying to insult but want to be sure you are using the best technique.

 

[Stever]

Advance the cam timing dot one tooth counterclockwise

What size Carb is that ?

19mm with a 75 jet

 

[Stever]

I don't hear you mention anything about pulling the compression release lever. The auto clutch has a one-way pully that when the wheels (and pedals) move forward the clutch is engaged. You can freely move the bike in reverse without pulling in the compression release leaver as the clutch will not be engaged. Most of us start the bike on its stand with the back wheel off the ground. First kick is with the choke on (if it does not start, choke off or it can flood) You hold the compression release lever in and with the left pedal just past the top you push down on the pedal (kick start) and then release the compression release lever and give it some gas with the twist grip.

If you are going to pedal start, you need to have the compression release lever pulled in while pedaling and at reasonable speed, release the compression lever to turn the engine over. Not sure how you "disengage" the auto clutch... it is always engage in forward motion.

Excuse me for the basics here (maybe I missed you mentioning this) and not trying to insult but want to be sure you are using the best technique.

Yep, tried all of that. Thanks for the input.

 

[Stever]

I am beginning to think that the compression is still pretty weak, even after the resurfacing. I have been using a 1” marble slab for sanding. Going to get a piece of glass and redo both the head and cylinder base.

 

[Wrench]

Advance the cam timing dot one tooth counterclockwise

19mm with a 75 jet

BTW by 2005 Whizzer started advancing the cam one tooth at the factory so your cam should already be advanced in your 2007

 

[Wrench]

I am beginning to think that the compression is still pretty weak, even after the resurfacing. I have been using a 1” marble slab for sanding. Going to get a piece of glass and redo both the head and cylinder base.

If the bike pushes forward easily without using the compression release you got low compression
Without using the compression release the bike should be very hard to push forward

BTW compression at the minimum should be at least 90 PSI but 120+ PSI is better

 

[Wrench]

I am beginning to think that the compression is still pretty weak, even after the resurfacing. I have been using a 1” marble slab for sanding. Going to get a piece of glass and redo both the head and cylinder base.

Do a valve leak test while you got your cyl off
Hold the cyl upside down and spray carb cleaner or a solvent into the valve ports to make a small puddle
If no fluid leaks out past the valves you got a good seal

 

[Wrench]

I am beginning to think that the compression is still pretty weak, even after the resurfacing. I have been using a 1” marble slab for sanding. Going to get a piece of glass and redo both the head and cylinder base.

Before you go crazy sanding
Mark up the cyl head and cyl deck sealing surfaces with a black sharpie pen , When you rub on sand paper and plate glass check your progress, The black sharpie marks will be removed and showing any low spots When all the black sharpie marks are gone your work is flat

 

[GW's Motorized]

If you are starting it with a drill, make sure you are spinning it in the right direction. If not it won't start