Engine parts list?

[cayminlast]

I was gifted a Seeutek 80cc engine which looked okay, on closer inspection the top end seems to be in good shape, but the clutch needs replacing. Which parts are recomended for a rebuild, or should I do a complete teardown first?

 

[ImpulseRocket]

I was close, I said 5000 +

All 6000 miles were done uphill, both ways, in 200 degree air temps, dodging thorns and spikey lizards.

 

[ImpulseRocket]

I was gifted a Seeutek 80cc engine which looked okay, on closer inspection the top end seems to be in good shape, but the clutch needs replacing. Which parts are recomended for a rebuild, or should I do a complete teardown first?

I would expect, at a minimum, that the pads themselves just need changed as previously mentioned by chainlube.

Personally, I would inspect the bearings as well, both the case bearings, and the small bearing on the clutch basket/hub (the geared section where the pads insert). They aren't as difficult to replace as you would think and tend to be the number one failure point. The left side bearing (sprocket side) requires removal of the shaft to replace. The right side bearing is installed on the shaft itself. Most of these kits come wth metal shielded (ZZ) bearings, which are not actually that great at shielding against dust - something clutches make a lot of - and tend to go bad very quickly. I replace them with C3 spec rubber sealed units (2RS).

These are my personal go-to choice for bearings. Made in S. Korea, and the perfect specification for use on these engines. https://www.amazon.com/FAG-6202-2RSR-C3-Clearance-14000rpm-Rotational/dp/B006317AIA?tag=mb0ea4-20

 

[DAMIEN1307]

All 6000 miles were done uphill, both ways, in 200 degree air temps, dodging thorns and spikey lizards.

You forgot the dragons..."Thar be dragons"...lol...lol.

 

[robe]

I would expect, at a minimum, that the pads themselves just need changed as previously mentioned by chainlube.

Personally, I would inspect the bearings as well, both the case bearings, and the small bearing on the clutch basket/hub (the geared section where the pads insert). They aren't as difficult to replace as you would think and tend to be the number one failure point. The left side bearing (sprocket side) requires removal of the shaft to replace. The right side bearing is installed on the shaft itself. Most of these kits come wth metal shielded (ZZ) bearings, which are not actually that great at shielding against dust - something clutches make a lot of - and tend to go bad very quickly. I replace them with C3 spec rubber sealed units (2RS).

These are my personal go-to choice for bearings. Made in S. Korea, and the perfect specification for use on these engines. https://www.amazon.com/FAG-6202-2RSR-C3-Clearance-14000rpm-Rotational/dp/B006317AIA?tag=mb0ea4-20

Wow! I checked your link, it jumps to amazon ca, they are $54 Cdn each. On amazon com they are 12 Usd. Do we ever get done up on some items here.

 

[ImpulseRocket]

Wow! I checked your link, it jumps to amazon ca, they are $54 Cdn each. On amazon com they are 12 Usd. Do we ever get done up on some items here.

It's that VAT for some of it I would imagine. Those bearings are a high rpm high temp spec. Remove both seals and they are rated for over 20k rpm. Thus the price. Probably overkill for the clutch, tbh, since it turns at 4 times less rpm. I would still get C3 spec bearings though, they are clearanced for higher temps (200f or more) and will last longer in an engine application such as these.

 

[cayminlast]

I eventually got the time to take a closer look at the unit, it would be cheaper and easier to just buy a new engine. It's awesome to have all of you guys with experience and knowledge, it helps and I do appreciate your time and effort, thank you.

 

[robe]

I eventually got the time to take a closer look at the unit, it would be cheaper and easier to just buy a new engine. It's awesome to have all of you guys with experience and knowledge, it helps and I do appreciate your time and effort, thank you.

Maybe all you need to get it going are some new pads and tighten the inner main spring and the flower nut. If it turns smoothly, you may get more life out of it.

 

[ImpulseRocket]

I eventually got the time to take a closer look at the unit, it would be cheaper and easier to just buy a new engine. It's awesome to have all of you guys with experience and knowledge, it helps and I do appreciate your time and effort, thank you.

I am curious as to what you saw or found that made you determine this? One of the case halves get damaged?