MS660 56mm CDH110 build!

T

TheWizzerd

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I am doing an MS660 build based on the CDH110 bottom end. I thought I would show you guys how I went about correcting the geometry, as well as share some progress along the way.

This engine will have a special purpose when complete. Not going on a bike, and will have many modifications. Centrifugal clutch, pull start, eliminating the stock manual clutch with a new shaft and modified main gear etc.

The CDH110 cases are meaty with plenty of material for big bore jugs making the use of larger saw jugs easier than using the smaller cases. The transfers are "square" to the sides making them a bit easier to close up too.

I welded the transfers and stock stud holes up, then machined a pocket 5.5mm deep for the jug to sit down in to allow for the same geometry (crank center to jug base) as the MS660 in order to get proper rod angle/port timing/dwell relationship. Then decked the case to clear the shoulder on the jug. I did not machine the jug base down, which IMHO is the wrong way to do it. I machined the pocket large enough to allow the stock MS660 base gasket to fit.

I am using the stock ZMH100 rod. Even if I used a longer rod to get the piston where it needs to be without machining the case, it would still be off so dropping the jug into the cases and using the stock rod is the only way to do it properly and maintain proper geometry.

Don't mind the tape. Just for reference for another mod.

It should be a screamer....hopefully.
 

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When I have 200 bucks I'm going to do a similar build. My build however I going to be a CDH110 bottom end with a husqvarna 395xp jug and cylinder with caber rings.

Are you going to add a reed valve to this engine? If so please spill the beans on how you do it because I've been struggling to see how I could add one to a saw jug
 
When I have 200 bucks I'm going to do a similar build. My build however I going to be a CDH110 bottom end with a husqvarna 395xp jug and cylinder with caber rings.

Are you going to add a reed valve to this engine? If so please spill the beans on how you do it because I've been struggling to see how I could add one to a saw jug
I may go reed. It will be case reed likely using a G2 reed block if I do. Then block off the intake on the jug. If I do that I will make a plug that takes up as much of the intake volume as I can.

You can do reed on the jug port, you just need an adapter and window the piston.

I had actually thought of maybe doing a dual intake setup using a case reed and the stock intake with some sort of Y pipe or even dual carb. But that seems a bit silly for no advantage. Would just be for fun and to see how it works out.
 
You may run into a bit of trouble with the 395xp jug due to its base geometry without modifying it. But it may work out. Nice thing about the MS660 jug is the clean square base making it easy to fit into a pocket between the upper case bolts without modification.
 
You may run into a bit of trouble with the 395xp jug due to its base geometry without modifying it. But it may work out. Nice thing about the MS660 jug is the clean square base making it easy to fit into a pocket between the upper case bolts without modification.
I know the troubles. I just like the sound of a 58mm bore
 
It ran today! Without a carb just squirting fuel in the intake for a few seconds. Just as a test. Going to decide on case reed or stock piston port intake tonight and get that finished.
 
It ran today! Without a carb just squirting fuel in the intake for a few seconds. Just as a test. Going to decide on case reed or stock piston port intake tonight and get that finished.
I personally prefer the look of off the cylinder, but if your looking for pure power case intake is the way to go. When building one of these however you do need to keep in mind that the gas contains the oil, and all parts need to be oiled well.
 
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