GP460 Engine On Friction Drive

is the clutch you are using the DDM #WW552, keyed, tapered shaft, 3 shoe ?

the configuration is diff than the 460 unit, non dajustable, hope thos esprings can take it.

steve
 
Steve, I just emailed davesmotors.com with that question, will let you know their answer.

The adjustable clutch SHOULD be able to dial in which rpm it engages.:geek:
 
Almost finished ome major grinding away at the engine channel to clear the Dominator pipe. Pipe bracket had to be amputated and rewelded at a right angle from original.

Damaged the shaft and collar holding the friction roller. New parts on the way. Will run the bike just to see if the pocketbike clutch engages at the correct rpm.

Planning the front friction drive for the second 460 engine. Since BMP does not offer front drive, will have to fabricate.:geek:
 
i got to admit you must be THE most hardened, inexerable, died in the wool, gear head i've run into.

i keep telling myself that you will get ONE of those 460's settled in a configuration that can keep it hooked up and that you'll be so surprized and happy.................................

while YOU keep right on devising and fabbing up the stuff to go right ahead and mount the SECOND one.

let the good times roll baby,
steve
 
Thanks for props, Steve.

The front Staton friction drive on "The Dragon Lady" was specifically made for front drive. BMP makes rear friction drive only so I'll have to modify my BMP engine housing to bolt onto the front fork.

Two methods available. The simplest way would be to PRECISELY!!! drill four engine mounting holes on the other side of the engine housing. Thennn, the housing is mounted BACKWARDS and bolts onto the bike fork.

If the drilled holes are off-center, the clutch and drum will not align properly with the housing's bearing.:sick:


Second method is more labor-intensive but doesn't have to be so precise. Four inches of the FRONT engine housing is cut completely off. The cut piece is then turned 180 degrees and welded to the BACK half of the housing. Two 1/4" holes are drilled up front for the FRONT engagement support legs.

Since the BMP housing is steel, it's easier to weld than Staton's aluminum housing. Furthermore, the severed FRONT housing can be trimmed an inch or two, then welded to the BACK of the housing. This will allow the engine to sit ON TOP of the front tire and closer to the fork. The standard front friction drive positions the engine too far forward to my liking. Shortening the housing should also give less unbalance to the front fork. Should look better, or not as bad.

If you have a solid fork, then using Staton's front support legs bolts the kit to the front axle.

HOWEVERRRR, using a suspension fork takes more ingenuity. You COULD weld an aluminum mounting plate onto the "bridge" of the fork. My fork had a single hole in the bridge. I bolted the U-shaped mounting bracket there, then used two large radiator clamps to secure the bracket onto the "bridge".

The support legs cannot be bolted onto the moving front axle. I used an aluminum pannier mounting bracket which was specifically made for bikes with front suspension forks. The pannier bracket bolts to the suspension fork, then the support legs bolt onto the pannier bracket.

I'll use the same front mounting brackets on this 460 friction bike.

That's how I mounted front friction drive on "The Dragon Lady".

Both engines will have freewheeling 1.25" friction rollers. I'm looking forward to rolling easily.

You would not BELIEVE how much rolling resistance there is on a dual friction drive bicycle!:sick:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I'm Done!

FINALLY buttoned up "The Iron Dragon", my 460 friction bike. Whew!

Cut a HUGE chunk outa the left rear corner of the BMP engine housing to clear the 460 Dominator pipe.

Gassed up, tire engagement set.

I had damaged the collar and driveshaft that the 1.25" friction roller spins on. Replacement parts should arrive next week. I just need to find out if the pocketbike clutch engages at the proper rpm. If not I'll probably order an adjustable pocket bike clutch with tapered shaft and slotted for Woodruff key.

"The Iron Dragon" weighs 53 lbs with 24 ounces of fuel. I also lost five pounds of body weight, so this bike combination weighs 45 lbs LESS than "The Dragon Lady".:geek:

A stock 460 engine is rated at 4.4hp@11,000rpm. This one has an expansion pipe, modified head, maybe ported and 13:1 compression. Probably 5 hp or more.

Should be quite an adventure. The bike's front is very light, making for a hairy ride. Adding another engine up front should add stability and weight where it belongs. Also more hp and torque to climb hills.

Too late to fire up. Also, Hawaii Ed and I are riding a 60-mile trek to the North Shore tomorrow morning.

The Iron Dragon"s maiden voyage will have to wait until tomorrow afternoon.:sick:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Pullstart Problems.

Just got back from a ride with Hawaii Ed. We rode towards the North Shore, then pedalled and carried our bikes around Kaena Point thru the sand and up the cliff.

We ended up on the western coast of Oahu.

After leaving the rocky road and sand dunes we motored 15 miles. I got a blowout on the highway three miles from Ed's home. So Ed went home, got his truck and carried us home.

Not one to sit, I took "The Iron Maiden" friction bike to the park to start it up. It was 6pm but the sun hadn't gone down yet.

Dang pullstart got jammed. The engine tried to fire up but quit. I disassembled the pullstart but it kept jamming. Disappointed, I pedalled easily home, since the roller is on a freewheeling bearing.

Niece and nephew are here, so we're going to the ice skating rink tonight.

I'll change the engine and pullstart tomorrow morning. The high-compression engine is a bear to yank on, so I'll install the stock 460 and pullstart.

Pretty long day today...and it's not over!!:giggle:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Back
Top