Headset Installation

[Rusty_S85]

Ok, I got my reply back from Bicycle-Engines they told me the wave in the headset bearing should straighten out when assembled and that the small plastic ring with the break in it is split for fitment.

So my question is on the GT2A included headsets what is the proper placement of the parts? I tried looking online and I can figure some of it out on my own but I cant find like an exploded diagram of how the parts are to stack. Like for instance the ring I have that is supposedly cut where does that fit? The flat washer where does that go?

So if anyone can help out with a diagram of the exact layout for these pieces I would greatly appreciate it.

This is the head set I have.

 

[Frankenstein]

You have an additional seal that would appear to go over the lower bearing underneath it.

 

[Rusty_S85]

Thanks for the reply. I can see how it should go. Thing is I had to email the guy back at Bicycle-Engine and tell him I cant use this bearing. Its egg shaped and the bearing doesn't even mesh with the race properly. So how am I supposed to measure and cut my steer tube properly if the bearing isn't sitting flush.

If they refuse to mail me a replacement headset I will have to probably ask on here where I can buy this same headset so I can just buy a replacement.

 

[CrazyDan]

You should easily get a replacement bearing at a local bike shop.

 

[FurryOnTheInside]

Thanks for the reply. I can see how it should go. Thing is I had to email the guy back at Bicycle-Engine and tell him I cant use this bearing. Its egg shaped and the bearing doesn't even mesh with the race properly. So how am I supposed to measure and cut my steer tube properly if the bearing isn't sitting flush.

If they refuse to mail me a replacement headset I will have to probably ask on here where I can buy this same headset so I can just buy a replacement.

The headset ball bearing cages are always very soft metal. They definitely do squash flat and conform to the bearing races. It doesn't matter at all that it's soft, unless you really let the headset get loose or completely fail to maintain and regrease the bearings.

You don't actually need the cage. AFAIK it's only there to make assembly and maintenance a bit faster and keep you from losing balls on the workshop floor.
If you can get some more of that size balls you can just drop them in loose into the (well greased) lower cup while the frame is clamped upside down. There should be a space left over (about 3/4 to 1 x the ball diameter) so the bearings don't jam together when it's all tightened.
This would support the weight on more surface, but would make the maintenance a bit more fiddly.

 

[Rusty_S85]

The headset ball bearing cages are always very soft metal. They definitely do squash flat and conform to the bearing races. It doesn't matter at all that it's soft, unless you really let the headset get loose or completely fail to maintain and regrease the bearings.

You don't actually need the cage. AFAIK it's only there to make assembly and maintenance a bit faster and keep you from losing balls on the workshop floor.
If you can get some more of that size balls you can just drop them in loose into the (well greased) lower cup while the frame is clamped upside down. There should be a space left over (about 3/4 to 1 x the ball diameter) so the bearings don't jam together when it's all tightened.
This would support the weight on more surface, but would make the maintenance a bit more fiddly.

So one should be able to reshape the cage by hand? I did some reading and what I read was that the cage was fairly hard material and over tightening the tension screw can damage the head set or even the head tube.

I dont think I can use this without the cage as the bearing cup is flat for the flat side of the cage to sit. I will try to reshape what I have other wise I might just run to the local bike shop and see if they can get me a replacement. if they got a heavier duty one Ill buy both and just swap them out.

 

[Rusty_S85]

Well I just straightened the bearing out. It was actually quite soft. Thing is I dont know if its the design or what all of the balls are free moving but pressing the race down firmly feels like half the balls are frozen and just sliding across the race vs rolling.

 

[Rusty_S85]

Question, the split small plastic ring I believe goes on the top cap. Thing is though is this really needed? My VO threadless stem arrived today and the use of that plastic centering cone keeps the top cap above the stem where as with out it, the top cap fits a little better on the stem and looks better.

 

[CrazyDan]

Instead of using caged bearings you can go to a bike shop and get a couple dozen free bearings of the same size and pop out the ones in the cage. Then put them in with tons of grease in the same spot, just glob in grease first, makes em stick and not try to fall. The weight is transferred better with more surface and its far more durable. Plus you don't gotta worry about the cage fragging and damaging parts.

 

[Rusty_S85]

Thanks for the reply I might do that. Right now I am trying to find a cone shaped top seal that looks like what came in my set but without the Gineyea name. I think it would be better with just a plain black one and just have the VO shield on my stem.