CVT Help! To much power for left sproket? Anyone else?

Discussion in 'Transmission / Drivetrain' started by, Mar 20, 2011.

  1. New Member

    I have repaired my rim and spokes twice. I think whats happening is the engine putting torque on just the spokes for just the left side of the wheel is pulling the rim out of true. It happens on long flat rides when im at top speed for a few miles. My rim starts bending without any clear reason. Upon repair it always has broken spokes.

    Does this happen to anyone else?
    Why is this happening?
    Is the only fix an expensive shift kit, hub, and thicker spokes?

  2. ibdennyak

    ibdennyak Guest

    Some people have had good luck zip tying the spokes where they cross. I like bigger spokes with a hub adapter.
  3. tjs323626

    tjs323626 Member

  4. loquin

    loquin Active Member

    What kind of kit/drive are you using? (Happy Time/Gebe/Staton/... ?)
  5. Went to the local bike shop and told him what I was doing. He ordered a steel wheel with 8 Ga. spokes. Looks like it should handle lots of torque and not break/warp. When I finally get my MB on the road I will give details and report on how sturdy the rim is. My main concern is the wheel bearings holding up under speed.
  6. DuctTapedGoat

    DuctTapedGoat Active Member

    If you're using the ragjoint setup you will continue to have issues. I've tried dual threaded hubs and screwed the motors sprocket on, I've heard good things about clamshell adapters, and currently I'm bolted to the disc brake rotor mount. Open your mind further than the ragjoint and you'll see there's a lot of great possibilities.

    As with the ziptie thing, I've heard you can weld where your spokes cross. I wouldn't do it, but I've heard it works.
  7. When you say rag joint, is that the rubber donuts sandwiched with spokes in between? That's what I have. I think if you torque the nuts in a star pattern like car lug nuts and get them evenly tightened you should minimize problems. I noticed slight warping on mine and re torqued everything. I also replaced all the bolts with grade 8 and nylock nuts. My sprocket came with no instructions but being the analytical mechanic and working with different types of crazy power couplings at work it didn't take much to get it together and figure out the bolt upgrades.
  8. DuctTapedGoat

    DuctTapedGoat Active Member

    Yes, that's a rag joint.

    Honestly, star pattern doesn't make a difference - I've killed near a dozen rear wheels using the rag joint method.

    You can extend the life of your wheel by not using the plates - instead, use washers just large enough to keep the nuts from sucking into and/or tearing the rubber. This maximizes the tightness on the spokes, and keeps it from jerking them when you pedal start and begin acceleration.

    Go ahead and take the sprocket off the wheel that's getting beat up. Look at the rubber - it'll be shredded up from it actually sliding against the spokes! You don't need new ones, just flip them backwards. But, if you want a serious solution, you're going to be looking at a whole new wheel setup.

    Disc Brake Rotor Mount

    Dual Threaded Rear Axle

    These are the two solutions I've done since abandoning the rag joint. As well, look for "Clamshell Adapters". It attaches to the hub, and is relatively the cheapest solution. I'm on the Disc Brake Rotor Mount, just did it up the other day. Tomorrow is going to be a big test ride, but only time will tell how well it works.
  9. Thanks, I'll look at taking the plates off. I have a wheel with 8 gauge spokes the local bike shop ordered for me. I like the DB rotor mount idea.
  10. Another thought...if your local community college has a machine shop lab, perhaps one of the students can take your sprocket and drill holes for the brake rotor pattern.
  11. loquin

    loquin Active Member

    Also, consider one of the Creative Engineering clamp-on sprocket adapters at Pirate Cycles... Then, you're transferring torque directly to the hub.