Chainlube
Well-Known Member
Hold the piece lightly and move it in a figure "8" over the sandpaper. Also sand the top of the jug in the same way.So you think I should go a little more?
Hold the piece lightly and move it in a figure "8" over the sandpaper. Also sand the top of the jug in the same way.So you think I should go a little more?
I'll let Steve Morris explain it for me.
as long as it doesn't flex or you have a solid surface to put it on.
I agree. That whole quarter section is definitely looking a bit low
Yes. You want to go until the entire surface is the same.
I sanded the head down a little more and it looks good. My question now is should I just clean the jug surface and the head surface with some brake clean or something else and put the gasket on dry. I just got a new gasket in the mail today. Just wondering if there’s anything I should do before I put the new gasket on and torque it.I can see where the oil was seeping out. You won't be able to visually see the uneven surface until you lightly sand it for a second and the wear pattern reveals the low spots. You basically sand a bit, check, repeat until the entire surface is a dull shiny metallic finish.
The copper head gaskets can be used again sometimes. Ideally you would simply replace it, but you can always anneal it yourself if you have a torch. Simply heat until it starts to glow and then quench in cold water. This will fully soften the copper and allow it to seal properly. Thin copper sheet can be a bit tricky to heat evenly, so you have to keep that torch moving. Ideally an induction heater could be used, but not many people have that laying around.
Your spark plug shows evidence of both a rich and lean burn. Could be fueling, but could also be from a small leak. Until your head gasket is sealing properly, there isn't much point in trying to read the plug. Trying to judge any running condition while an engine has an active leak from a sealing surface is like trying to play tetris blindfolded.
On the positive side, the timing pattern on the plug is spot on.
Did you grind the top of the jug?I sanded the head down a little more and it looks good. My question now is should I just clean the jug surface and the head surface with some brake clean or something else and put the gasket on dry. I just got a new gasket in the mail today. Just wondering if there’s anything I should do before I put the new gasket on and torque it.
I didn’t sand the top of the jug. I put a good straigh edge on it in all different directions and it looked ok. If I sand the top of the jug I have to take the engine completely off the bike and I really don’t want to do that if I can help it. I got two new gaskets so I’m going to try putting the head back on and hope that was the problem. The head had issues that you could see until I sanded it so I will see what happensDid you grind the top of the jug?
From what your pictures look like, that cylinder should come off without taking the engine off the bike. Disconnect the exhaust and carb and slip it off. That will afford you the opportunity to check the deck for square.I didn’t sand the top of the jug. I put a good straigh edge on it in all different directions and it looked ok. If I sand the top of the jug I have to take the engine completely off the bike and I really don’t want to do that if I can help it. I got two new gaskets so I’m going to try putting the head back on and hope that was the problem. The head had issues that you could see until I sanded it so I will see what happens
Dear Graggy-PM sent-Gearhead437From what your pictures look like, that cylinder should come off without taking the engine off the bike. Disconnect the exhaust and carb and slip it off. That will afford you the opportunity to check the deck for square.