Leaking gasket

Only thing I'd add to this is to keep rotating the head as you work it it in your figure 8 pattern. Maybe you are putting too much forward or whatever pressure as you are working the thing so what I'm trying to say after every several revolutions, you give it a 180.
You could after a few give it a 90 and keep working it like that, but of course don't over do it.
 
I can see where the oil was seeping out. You won't be able to visually see the uneven surface until you lightly sand it for a second and the wear pattern reveals the low spots. You basically sand a bit, check, repeat until the entire surface is a dull shiny metallic finish.

The copper head gaskets can be used again sometimes. Ideally you would simply replace it, but you can always anneal it yourself if you have a torch. Simply heat until it starts to glow and then quench in cold water. This will fully soften the copper and allow it to seal properly. Thin copper sheet can be a bit tricky to heat evenly, so you have to keep that torch moving. Ideally an induction heater could be used, but not many people have that laying around.

Your spark plug shows evidence of both a rich and lean burn. Could be fueling, but could also be from a small leak. Until your head gasket is sealing properly, there isn't much point in trying to read the plug. Trying to judge any running condition while an engine has an active leak from a sealing surface is like trying to play tetris blindfolded.

On the positive side, the timing pattern on the plug is spot on.
I sanded the head down a little more and it looks good. My question now is should I just clean the jug surface and the head surface with some brake clean or something else and put the gasket on dry. I just got a new gasket in the mail today. Just wondering if there’s anything I should do before I put the new gasket on and torque it.
 
I sanded the head down a little more and it looks good. My question now is should I just clean the jug surface and the head surface with some brake clean or something else and put the gasket on dry. I just got a new gasket in the mail today. Just wondering if there’s anything I should do before I put the new gasket on and torque it.
Did you grind the top of the jug?
 
Did you grind the top of the jug?
I didn’t sand the top of the jug. I put a good straigh edge on it in all different directions and it looked ok. If I sand the top of the jug I have to take the engine completely off the bike and I really don’t want to do that if I can help it. I got two new gaskets so I’m going to try putting the head back on and hope that was the problem. The head had issues that you could see until I sanded it so I will see what happens
 
I didn’t sand the top of the jug. I put a good straigh edge on it in all different directions and it looked ok. If I sand the top of the jug I have to take the engine completely off the bike and I really don’t want to do that if I can help it. I got two new gaskets so I’m going to try putting the head back on and hope that was the problem. The head had issues that you could see until I sanded it so I will see what happens
From what your pictures look like, that cylinder should come off without taking the engine off the bike. Disconnect the exhaust and carb and slip it off. That will afford you the opportunity to check the deck for square.
 
From what your pictures look like, that cylinder should come off without taking the engine off the bike. Disconnect the exhaust and carb and slip it off. That will afford you the opportunity to check the deck for square.
Dear Graggy-PM sent:)-Gearhead437
 
If you’re apprehensive or not confident about removing the cylinder then I’d say try it as is.

You’ll find out fast enough if it still leaks.

If it does still leak then you know what to do next.

If it doesn’t leak then you did a job well done.. fixed.

The most it could possibly cost is another head gasket.
 
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