Here's the latest Searcher I've built. It is my first shifter bike on the Searcher and uses a Raw engines kit (from bikeberry) for power. It was a challenge to build and I'm glad it is done. I wish I didn't have to ship it to its owner. I think I'll build another one as soon as this one is gone.
Note the "innovative" use of corrugated plastic to hide the unavoidable scratches that the SBP shifter kit mounts cause to the frame
SBP shifter kit jackshaft required excessive work with emory cloth and file to get bearing and components to slide on it easily. I didn't have to do this on my first shifter kit build.
The raw engine has a wider clutch over and this required me to buy washers for the extra spacing on the jackshaft. I wanted washers to fill in the space between the left sprocket and the left bearing to prevent the bearing from slipping out.
Shifting is via a 7 speed indexed thumb shifter mounted on right handlebar. Unfortunately, the 7th gear is not usable due to chain interference. When I build another Searcher, I will put in a couple of washers between the chain rings on the freewheel so this isn't an issue on future builds.
Raw engine observations:
a. Best casting I have seen on a HT engine.
b. carb main jet was finger tight. Good thing I always tear down carb and locktite the main jet and float bowl assembly.
c. Hinged clutch lever bracket had paint blemishes and was not used because I've had the hinge fail on previous builds with a Dax clutch lever that was similar in design. Didn't want to get burned twice.
d. intake manifold required drilling and some filing to get it fitted to the engine. This is unacceptable
e. I discovered that the brass spark plug clip in the plug boot can be screwed out. I then soldered the retaining clip to the brass clip so it wouldn't back out and cause intermittent connection to spark plug. I've had this little clip completely back out on me and this is a permament fix to the problem and a low cost option to spark plug boot replacement.
f. Excellent paint finish on the fuel tank. Fuel tank had one dimple in it. I was disappointed by the small and short studs coming out of the fuel tank. I had to use alternative steel straps tomount the fuel tank to the oversized searcher frame.
g. Cheap exhaust and intake studs. Replaced them with quality parts
h. Acorn nuts on head..YUK. If tightened to the torque I prefer to use on the engine, they will damage the head threads.
i. Hardest clutch pull out of any build I've ever completed. I hope it gets better.
Build stuff:
1. engine needs to be mounted high up in the frame for muffler clearance. There is about 1cm clearance between the carb and upper frame. As it is, the muffler will still need to be heated with a torch and bent forward about 1/4-1/2 inch. I hate doing this because it discolors the chrome.
2. I JB welded and bolted the little 90 degree aluminum arm on the shifter kit. This helps prevent bending when torquing down the mount bolts.
3. Used a spare seat post to reinforce the seat tube so it wouldnt crush when I tighten down the shifter mounts. I still have 6 inches of usable space for the real seat post My last shifter kit build, I tightened the mounts too much and crushed the seat tube slightly. I also hammered in a spare seat post on this bike to reinforce the damage frame.
4. I installed slime smart tube super thick tire tubes. These things are thicker than the armored plates on a tank! They are 5x thicker than a standard tube and filled with slime. It would take an armor piercing bullet to blow a tire.
Searcher:
1. the contracted company that assembled this bike for Kmart should be fired. Rear wheel bearings were overtightened and pedals and cranks were barely tight. Brakes were not adjusted properly and bike was danagerous to ride as is from store as a pedal pusher nevermind as a motorized bike.
2. Price of searcher has gone up over 50 bucks in past year. This is nuts and I wrote a complaint letter to corporate Kmart. They responded by apologizing and will "look into their bike pricing".
Note the "innovative" use of corrugated plastic to hide the unavoidable scratches that the SBP shifter kit mounts cause to the frame
SBP shifter kit jackshaft required excessive work with emory cloth and file to get bearing and components to slide on it easily. I didn't have to do this on my first shifter kit build.
The raw engine has a wider clutch over and this required me to buy washers for the extra spacing on the jackshaft. I wanted washers to fill in the space between the left sprocket and the left bearing to prevent the bearing from slipping out.
Shifting is via a 7 speed indexed thumb shifter mounted on right handlebar. Unfortunately, the 7th gear is not usable due to chain interference. When I build another Searcher, I will put in a couple of washers between the chain rings on the freewheel so this isn't an issue on future builds.
Raw engine observations:
a. Best casting I have seen on a HT engine.
b. carb main jet was finger tight. Good thing I always tear down carb and locktite the main jet and float bowl assembly.
c. Hinged clutch lever bracket had paint blemishes and was not used because I've had the hinge fail on previous builds with a Dax clutch lever that was similar in design. Didn't want to get burned twice.
d. intake manifold required drilling and some filing to get it fitted to the engine. This is unacceptable
e. I discovered that the brass spark plug clip in the plug boot can be screwed out. I then soldered the retaining clip to the brass clip so it wouldn't back out and cause intermittent connection to spark plug. I've had this little clip completely back out on me and this is a permament fix to the problem and a low cost option to spark plug boot replacement.
f. Excellent paint finish on the fuel tank. Fuel tank had one dimple in it. I was disappointed by the small and short studs coming out of the fuel tank. I had to use alternative steel straps tomount the fuel tank to the oversized searcher frame.
g. Cheap exhaust and intake studs. Replaced them with quality parts
h. Acorn nuts on head..YUK. If tightened to the torque I prefer to use on the engine, they will damage the head threads.
i. Hardest clutch pull out of any build I've ever completed. I hope it gets better.
Build stuff:
1. engine needs to be mounted high up in the frame for muffler clearance. There is about 1cm clearance between the carb and upper frame. As it is, the muffler will still need to be heated with a torch and bent forward about 1/4-1/2 inch. I hate doing this because it discolors the chrome.
2. I JB welded and bolted the little 90 degree aluminum arm on the shifter kit. This helps prevent bending when torquing down the mount bolts.
3. Used a spare seat post to reinforce the seat tube so it wouldnt crush when I tighten down the shifter mounts. I still have 6 inches of usable space for the real seat post My last shifter kit build, I tightened the mounts too much and crushed the seat tube slightly. I also hammered in a spare seat post on this bike to reinforce the damage frame.
4. I installed slime smart tube super thick tire tubes. These things are thicker than the armored plates on a tank! They are 5x thicker than a standard tube and filled with slime. It would take an armor piercing bullet to blow a tire.
Searcher:
1. the contracted company that assembled this bike for Kmart should be fired. Rear wheel bearings were overtightened and pedals and cranks were barely tight. Brakes were not adjusted properly and bike was danagerous to ride as is from store as a pedal pusher nevermind as a motorized bike.
2. Price of searcher has gone up over 50 bucks in past year. This is nuts and I wrote a complaint letter to corporate Kmart. They responded by apologizing and will "look into their bike pricing".
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