My chop chop

Hi im from Oz and this is my 2 stroke Schwinn in progress... I've done the usual mods including a severe dose of heavy porting.

I got bored so I polished the engine covers to a mirror finish - I reckon this looks much better than the same crappy slotted cnc covers that everybody has.... I also did a little porting and port-matching with the inlet manifold...

I've ordered a aftermarket cnc head as well as a 4 litre fuel tank that should arrive very soon... I'm gonna give the head a skim to raise the compression slightly just to give it shooting match a little more oomph... let's see what happens aye... lol

Check it out

 

[Chop-chop]

The new 4 LITRE fuel tank just arrived and instead of those pissy threaded mounting studs, it's got mounting plates welded to the bottom side of the tank... love it. Also got a new carbie.

 

[DAMIEN1307]

The new 4 LITRE fuel tank just arrived and instead of those pissy threaded mounting studs, it's got mounting plates welded to the bottom side of the tank... love it. Also got a new carbie.

Do you have the link to the website where you found that 4 litre tank...im toying with the idea of changing mine for one of those....thanks...DAMIEN

 

[Chainlube]

Do you have the link to the website where you found that 4 litre tank...im toying with the idea of changing mine for one of those....thanks...DAMIEN

Check on Amazon, there's lots. Just get the one with the threads for the fitting on the outside of the pipe. Looks like the monkey bike tank is cheaper and cuter.

 

[Chop-chop]

I sourced mine from AliExpress, lot's of listings for them. I'd just finished fitting it an hour ago and it looks perfect on the Schwinn chopper proportion-wise compared to the stock 2 litre version that originally came with the 80cc kit. Check out the before & after pics

 

[Chop-chop]

As I'd mentioned earlier, the mounting set-up on these 4 litre fuel tanks is totally revised... so instead of the 4× pissy threaded studs that are poorly welded to the bottom of the tank, which we all know can easily be damaged by over-tightening, so instead of having welded-on mounting studs on the 4 litre tank, there are mounting plates welded to either ends of the tank with two holes in each.

Now, to mount the new tank, I drilled holes in the middle of the two supplied 'wrap-around' mounting plates, turned them upside-down and spot-welded them to the top bar of the frame by filling in the holes with the stick welder. I found this works so much better then screwing them to the top bar using self-tapping screws.... as long as the fuel tank is 'bolted' to the frame properly (ie double-nut method OR nylon locking nuts), there will never be any issues, unlike the other tanks with welded-on threaded mounting studs.... these 4 litre tanks kick ass !

 

[DistantWolrld101]

please rid them knock off barry mounts and get a pair of CNC mounts, in time your motor will shift also cnc mounts are much better.

also if your handlebar clamps are not fully closed use a step up bit to open them up some.

if you have a threadless setup use a self tapping screw for extra security for the stock clamps where not made to handle ape hangers well.

also if you can weld reinforce the rear the occ is a childs bike and was not made for adults much less a motor and the rear end is the weak point.

you also don't need a chain puller run the brake in between the chain makes a cleaner run.

 

[Chop-chop]

please rid them knock off barry mounts and get a pair of CNC mounts, in time your motor will shift also cnc mounts are much better.

also if your handlebar clamps are not fully closed use a step up bit to open them up some.

if you have a threadless setup use a self tapping screw for extra security for the stock clamps where not made to handle ape hangers well.

also if you can weld reinforce the rear the occ is a childs bike and was not made for adults much less a motor and the rear end is the weak point.

you also don't need a chain puller run the brake in between the chain makes a cleaner run.

Lol the knock-off mount has been welded to the bottom tube of the frame at a few places so it's definitely not shifting anywhere anytime soon (it's good that I have a tig welder for my other hobby - big power turbocharged Nissans).

I've been looking at an entire new dual disk brake 4-inch fat tyre '3 on a tree' fork setup from Pedalchopper.com and that'll be in the pipeline in the next few weeks so I couldn't care less about the handlebar clamp that's on there atm.

Now with that ass end - the old saying 'it ain't broke .... don't fix it' so I'll worry about it whenever it decides to go pear-shape....And as for the way the brake and chain is currently set up - I like it the way it is because it's running really smooth right now so why change it ? Thanks for your input tho

 

[Member 30571]

Nice looking bike.

 

[Chop-chop]

Well Welcome to the OCC Club

Le


if you ever need new tires save a $$ and go for 16" motorcycle tires.

Yes, I have looked into 120 70-16 or 130 70-16 motorcycle hoops for the rear. 120 or 130 with the lowest possible wall profile would be ideal, anymore would be impractical as the circumference would be too big and possibly cause the drive to slave being a single speed and I have a 32-tooth for top end.

 

[Chop-chop]

Just finished installing the new 'racing carbie'. After a brief fang around the block, I noticed the sliding gate action of this unit much better in comparison to the sliding piston action of the stock carbie that originally came with the kit, the power came on with more usable definition as the power delivery wasn't like an on/off switch.... this new carbie is much more consistent at sustaining part-throttle - which I find just as important as W.O.T if not more so....
Anyways, this new air filter definitely makes it appear a tad more aggressive - I like it.