JerboaJohn
Well-Known Member
I got this nice little cheap spoke tool for like $8. built many wheels with it. it's good bcs fits anything and feels comfy.
Need Advice on Assembling
- Thread starter spirittoo
- Start date
CrazyDan
Well-Known Member
This hobby is like a crack addiction. You say this will be your only bike, we'll see.
Yeah I guess we will Dan
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Wellsir ... having a problem still with the rear wheel. I got the tool needed to tighten and it works I was able to separate the nuts. I followed the video that was posted but when I put the wheel on the bike there is a lot of play in the wheel ... side to side movement. I tried tightening it again going through the same procedure, tightening the nut just enough so the brake will still turn. The spokes that hole the bike chain is hand tighten too. But it will come loose again after I lock the nut.
As you can see in the photo the bearing is showing and I not sure if that is correct. Also when I tried to pedal the bike the chain comes off. What am I doing wrong?
. Wellsir ... having a problem still with the rear wheel. I got the tool needed to tighten and it works I was able to separate the nuts. I followed the video that was posted but when I put the wheel on the bike there is a lot of play in the wheel ... side to side movement. I tried tightening it again going through the same procedure, tightening the nut just enough so the brake will still turn. The spokes that hole the bike chain is hand tighten too. But it will come loose again after I lock the nut.
CrazyDan
Well-Known Member
Don't even try to run it that way, you will destroy the bearing races. You want to get the right side cone and lock nut set firs. Then get the left side set right, tighten the cone nut till you feel drag when you spin the wheel. Then back it out a lil bit till it freely spins again. To finish up, grab the coaster brake lever and cone wrench with one hand, and tighten down the lock nut with the other, making sure the cone doesn't spin on the axle at all as you tighten it down.
On another note, it looks like you have caged bearings. Go to the bike shop with a ring and buy double the bearings in the cage minus 2, empty the bearings out of the cages and put half on each side. I've never had a caged bearing last. The cage always gets mangled on a bump, then its a fun time getting home.
On another note, it looks like you have caged bearings. Go to the bike shop with a ring and buy double the bearings in the cage minus 2, empty the bearings out of the cages and put half on each side. I've never had a caged bearing last. The cage always gets mangled on a bump, then its a fun time getting home.
That's how I have been tightening it ... as you described. Could it be the axle not being centered? It was short on the motor sprocket side where there wasn't another room for the nut so I had to re-adjust it. I will keep working on it.
Can you provide a link to the bearings you are talking about?
Can you provide a link to the bearings you are talking about?
gary55
Well-Known Member
You don't have the cone nut on.the cone nut is the inside race for the bearing. Watch the video again. First the bearing then the cone nut, then the locking nut then put it on the bike, then the washer then the fastening nut.
View media item 61814
View media item 61814
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CrazyDan
Well-Known Member
I agree with gary, something is missing for your rear dropouts to flex in. It does look like your cone is missing on the coaster brake lever side. Did you have "extra" parts when you were done putting it back together?
On the coaster brake lever side, I think the locking nut goes on after the coaster brake lever. Don't listen to this as 100% culinary accuracy. I'm getting older and my brain doesn't function like it used to, and I only ran 1 coaster brake on a motorized bike. Gave up after many coaster brake pad errors... in example: slam on the brake at over 30 and they decide to bend the mechanism that holds them in place, locking up the wheel. Hitting the brakes and somehow the cone nut and locking nut aren't stretching the threads enough, so braking makes the dropouts spread as the nuts unscrew themselves.
I think you should stick to a single speed freewheel (or maybe try to adapt a multi-speed on the pedal side), and toss the coaster brake wheel. For safety reasons. For real. I'm telling this to you as your lawyer.
On the coaster brake lever side, I think the locking nut goes on after the coaster brake lever. Don't listen to this as 100% culinary accuracy. I'm getting older and my brain doesn't function like it used to, and I only ran 1 coaster brake on a motorized bike. Gave up after many coaster brake pad errors... in example: slam on the brake at over 30 and they decide to bend the mechanism that holds them in place, locking up the wheel. Hitting the brakes and somehow the cone nut and locking nut aren't stretching the threads enough, so braking makes the dropouts spread as the nuts unscrew themselves.
I think you should stick to a single speed freewheel (or maybe try to adapt a multi-speed on the pedal side), and toss the coaster brake wheel. For safety reasons. For real. I'm telling this to you as your lawyer.
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gary55
Well-Known Member
Wow what he is showing is the coaster brake side, Only none of the inner coaster brake assy. He really needs to sit down and go step by step while assembling each item while watching the video before he trashes something.
CrazyDan
Well-Known Member
I'm not worried about him trashing the wheel, if he tries a ride as it stands, he will trash himself.
