**!! NEW MAG, NEW CDI, NEW SPARK PLUG, BUT NO SPARK !!**

Caleb Allen

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Dec 1, 2016
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I have replaced the whole ignition (apart from the magnet that spins)
- i have tried disconnecting the kill switch
- i don't have a working multimeter
- i have tested the spark plug by resting it on the cylinder head

!!!COULD SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME , I HAVE SPEND SO MUCH TIME TRYING TO FIX THIS!!!

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I have replaced the whole ignition (apart from the magnet that spins)
- i have tried disconnecting the kill switch
- i don't have a working multimeter
- i have tested the spark plug by resting it on the cylinder head

!!!COULD SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME , I HAVE SPEND SO MUCH TIME TRYING TO FIX THIS!!!

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Well without a DVM (Digital Volt Meter) it is hard to understand whats going on but I will say that something looks like its been rubbing the Mag and the Magnet. Have you got the right air gap on the Magnet and Mag? Check side to side play on the Crank I bet thats a problem
 
while I have replaced a bad CDI with a new one that was also bad, this is rare these days

you could have a bad ground or a wire that was pinched somewhere and looks good but makes no connection

get a meter - cheap to buy or borrow from friend or auto parts store
 
Hi Caleb, it doesn't happen very often, but I had a run of engines several years ago, where the magnet had lost its power. One side should be very strong (North) the other noticeably lower power (South). the magnet will only be in time if it goes back the way it is on there now. It will spark if it is put on backwards, but will not run, because the timing is wrong. We used to test them by using the flat of about a 1/4 inch wide screwdriver, flat side to the magnet, and pull it off. IF both sides are similar in power, bAD magnet. if it is not a hard pull on the North BAD magnet. I still have some new magnets in stock, just for this reason.
BTW ALWAYS test with kill wire disconnected at the mag coil, to keep the kill switch completely out of the circuit.
I hope this helps,
Mike
 
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