Replacing throttle

Discussion in '2-Stroke Engines' started by kathy.ann, Sep 13, 2010.

  1. kathy.ann

    kathy.ann New Member

    I am clueless on throttles, yet it seemed there were only two wires, and it should not be to hard to replace.

    I took apart the old one; where the wires attach to wires on the frame, there seemed to be a connector; thought pulling it would remove the old throttle wire from connector, but instead now the wires that goes to engine are left with just the wires instead of the silver connectors.

    Do I have to have a connector or can I just attach wire to wire and then get those caps?

    Also, the part on the handlebar, that has the plastic which you push in the silver medal ball connected to the wire that goes to engine, do I thread that wire with the ball around the plastic part that has a grove?

    I bought this bike for my son who is 24, and this then broke.

    Am I being totally stupid in trying to do this myself? I am so poor right now, I thought it was worth trying.

  2. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

    Wires (kill switch) can be hooked up one of two ways...

    Wires from switch...connect to wires coming out of CDI..Which one to which one makes no difference.

    Wire from switch...connect to the BLUE wire from CDI, the other wire to a ground.

    Now the cable... The barrel end of the cable goes in the slot that is the same shape (round and long, NOT a ball). The cable wraps over the top in the plastic channel and into the cable housing and down to the carburetor.
    Last edited: Sep 13, 2010
  3. kathy.ann

    kathy.ann New Member

    Your information is extremely helpful; I now understand why the old throttle has hot and ground wires, and the new one has two hot wires.

    One more question: If you consider the hand grip a clock, with the slot for the round-long shape in the plastic area at 12:00 when it is aligned straight up, is there a set position (in time) that this slot is to position? OR, does it all depend on the length of the wire that extends from the toob where the wire with the silver round/long thing comes out of?

    Thank you for all the help. Thanks to you I think I can do this myself.
  4. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

    If you take a look at the throttle clamp, the piece that covers the cable and where the wires come out, on the top section you will see a tit that protrudes. This tit goes into a 5mm hole you drill in the handle bars. The seam from both top and bottom pieces should be as close to being parallel with MOST handle bars. Now depending on handle bar type you may want it rotated a little either clockwise or counter clockwise. This will mean that the hole also needs to be drilled off to either side of center. Slide the grip over the handle bar and turn to WOT and adjust as to where it's most comfortable measure where pin should go and drill hole.

    Another thing... the color doesn't denote if its hot or ground. I rewired my coil, and used black wire for both hot and ground. I don't have but black wires and cables running from engine and brakes to my handle bars. Actually the kill switch wires should be the same color, as a switch of this type is used in series. It would be the same as if you cut your battery (in your car) wire in two and mounted a on-off switch, like my battery switch separates the two batteries in my boat, except my switch is a left, right or both switch.
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2010
  5. kathy.ann

    kathy.ann New Member

    Thank you again for the information.

    I followed your information and have the throttle on the handle bar; and I think it is correct. :)

    As far at the kill switch wires, I removed the screw on the kill switches on the broken throttle and the new one, and the green wire on the broken one is in the same location as the yellow wire on the new one, so I assume this means the yellow one is the ground.

    Is that true? I believe if I get this backward that I blow the engine or something terrible happens; is that true?

    Your knowledge has helped me so much; this should be my last question. :)
  6. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

    On that kill switch, color makes NO difference. One wire goes to the BLUE CDI wire and the other to ground.(could be the BLACK CDI wire).You don't need to worry about wire color.
    What happens when the kill switch button is depressed is that the electrical output from the CDI goes through the wire connected to it (in this case a blue wire), up to the switch, and out the wire connected to ground. Engine dies. The ONLY concern is that the wire from the kill switch going to a ground is in fact a ground that connects to the coil. This can be a wire, or the bike frame as long as the engine is not insulated from the frame. I run 2 wires from my coil to the CDI and connect my kill switch to those, that way there is no question about grounding to the coil. Paint can be a insulator.

    For you to have a better understanding and your limited knowledge, I guess you have been taught that RED is hot and BLACK is ground. Lets say the kill switch has a BLACK and RED wire and the CDI a BLUE and BLACK wire. You can run the BLACK kill switch wire to the BLUE on the CDI and RED to ground, or you can run the RED kill switch wire to the BLUE CDI wire and BLACK to ground. Both gives you EXACTLY the SAME results.
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2010
  7. kathy.ann

    kathy.ann New Member

    Your information matches perfectly to what i see on the bike.

    Last concern; the new trottle has hobby wire instead of the wire size on the old trottle and on the bike.

    Do you think it is safe to use the thin hobby wire?
  8. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

    The main concern about wire size is the amperage going through it. For example a 6 or a 12V car battery has a 2 gauge to a 6 gauge wire...2 being the best because of the starter amperage draw. A starter will draw anywhere between 60 and 150 amps. Smaller wires will get hot. Now look at a battery wire on a 9V battery that goes in many toys. The wire is so thin as the amperage being used is so low. Also amperage output of these coils is so small, about what a "AAA" or a "AA" battery puts out. That is why you can't use many lights for headlights on these engines hooked up to the coil (white wire).

    On this chart you will see that a 2 gauge wire can handle up to 181 amps, where a 1.5 amp system can use a 27/28 gauge wire, and that is some thin wire...when I rewire I use a 20 to 22 gauge, anything smaller is not that easy to find in box stores.

    Last edited: Sep 16, 2010
  9. kathy.ann

    kathy.ann New Member

    Again, great information! Love the chart and link was very helpful.

    Throttle is installed, thanks to you. I do not know how to ride the bike, so have to wait for someone who does to see if it works.

    The funny and totally stupid thing is that now I realize the handlebar plastic was what had broken, and was what only needed to be replaced; i did not have to replace the wires.

    Oh well. Live and learn.

    Thanks one more time for all the help you gave me. I suspect you build and repair motorized bikes to make money. It seems it would be a good business these days, since so many people have to reduce spending, the motorized bike is a great option. And it is better for the air! Maybe one day most people will have motorized bikes instead of cars, once it is realized pollution has to be stopped or we will all die.

    You were a life saver for me, and it was fun to be able to figure this out myself (well, with your help.)
  10. HeadSmess

    HeadSmess Well-Known Member

    :lol: thatll be ten dollars thankyou :)

    (we just like sharing the knowledge ... even if i was no help)