Risky's 2008 Ambassador II Whizzer Rebuild

Risk Man

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So I brought home the new project today. When someone locally advertises a Whizzer for under $500, you have to go look at it. I was lucky enough that the seller was settling the estate of their next door neighbor from Germany and while my lovely wife was in the hospital suddenly for two days last weekend, she agreed to hold it for me for a couple of days before I could go look at it. Was very concerned for that asking price,it would be gone quick. I went to see it two days later, and I bought it for less than asking though it was a bit rougher than the pictures she posted.

I know nothing about the radical mechanics of this " Most Advanced Whizzer" model before they ceased production and distribution of all bikes when they subsequently released the NE-R with NE-5 style and Ambassador upgrades the least of which was the questionable CVT drive.

I know back in 2008-2009 and even later, Quenton has written extensively about this bike and stirred some controversy regarding the CVT drive vs. auto clutch and other nuances of the NE-R and Ambassador "improvements". Ray (Mason Man) has already been helpful with some advice as I am going to need a bunch of it for this one!

Follow my progress as I do a frame off rebuild if my budget will allow it.
 

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The guy probably stopped riding it because the compression release button on the head failed
Button stayed open loosing compression The spring inside the button can't take the heat
Just upgrade the compression release button to one that's made for an old Harley

I think the reproduction compression release button for a Harley even comes with Metric threads like you would find on a 10 mm S/P
So that make's it a direct fit
 
So I brought home the new project today. When someone locally advertises a Whizzer for under $500, you have to go look at it. I was lucky enough that the seller was settling the estate of their next door neighbor from Germany and while my lovely wife was in the hospital suddenly for two days last weekend, she agreed to hold it for me for a couple of days.... I bought it for less than asking though it was a bit rougher than the pictures she posted.

I know nothing about the radical mechanics of this " Most Advanced Whizzer" model before they ceased production and distribution of all bikes when they subsequently released the NER with NE-5 style and Ambassador upgrades the least of which was the questionable CVT drive.

Follow my progress as I do a frame off rebuild if my budget will allow it.
Sweet buy! I would love to get a whizzer eventually.
That is my plan... Might have to paint the wheels if I can not get the rust off the chrome....
If the chrome doesn't come back it would look sweet with a blackout on the chrome parts.
 
#0000 steel wool and tinfoil, write that down.
Those are good tools. I have had pretty good success with "Evaporust". I just need to find small circular "Tub" just larger and deeper than the rim to soak it in. I really don't want to have to take the spokes out and re-lace the wheels but I will wait and see.
 
The guy probably stopped riding it because the compression release button on the head failed
Button stayed open loosing compression The spring inside the button can't take the heat
Just upgrade the compression release button to one that's made for an old Harley

I think the reproduction compression release button for a Harley even comes with Metric threads like you would find on a 10 mm S/P
So that make's it a direct fit
YAR Wrench. I noticed it the first day I looked at the bike and turned the flywheel over with no resistance. I did not mention that I got the original Whizzer folder with the bike. Title, first registration, temp plate, original Ambassador owner's manual, original assembly manual with color pictures (bike on the crate) and repo service manual. Written in pencil on the owner's manual was Quenton Gunther's name and phone number! There was also a regular sized (open at the end) envelope from "Joe Lin" in Taiwan with a new copper head gasket inside!
 
Those are good tools. I have had pretty good success with "Evaporust". I just need to find small circular "Tub" just larger and deeper than the rim to soak it in. I really don't want to have to take the spokes out and re-lace the wheels but I will wait and see.
Those acid chemicals take away metal, it's better to use a more physical means.
If you have to use Evaporust or vinegar just get a box and a plastic sheet for a liner. I did that with many rusty spitfire parts.
 
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