Short Straight Intake Question

FrizzleFried

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Really? If that is the case, then I have no idea how I can fit a speed carb on a short straight CNC intake... are the locations of that pivot different on different motors? I just don't see how ANYONE could install a speed carb on one of those short CNC intakes if that is the case...
 

Chainlube

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What you really need is an offset intake manifold.

Also check out this little bike I did a couple years ago, it has remote clutch cable.
 

Axl Myk

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Really? If that is the case, then I have no idea how I can fit a speed carb on a short straight CNC intake... are the locations of that pivot different on different motors? I just don't see how ANYONE could install a speed carb on one of those short CNC intakes if that is the case...
I use a CNC intake. You can turn that cable mount in until it hits the clutch spring. Then back it out 4 turns.
My cable touches the carb bowl, but I don't worry about it. The spring doesn't let the cable rub.
Double check you don't get air leaks at the bolts. The slotted holes (if that's what you have) can leak.
 

DAMIEN1307

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You can turn that cable mount in until it hits the clutch spring. Then back it out 4 turns.
My cable touches the carb bowl
that clutch mount/pivot bracket
He is not talking about the clutch cable mounting housing/guide...he is talking about the pivot arm that inserts into the front gear casing and is talking about that pivot arm/bar hitting his carburetor bowl when using the clutch.
 

FrizzleFried

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OK... to follow up on the air filter I got from China for under nine bucks (posted above).

As expected, with the standard installation sleeve (which works great with the stock NT carb BTW) it isn't "low profile" enough.

I decided to eliminate all the crap before the actual air filter. I drilled holes in the cover of the filter and I'm on my way to True Value to pick up a couple of longer bolts to hold it in place. Basically.... I hacked it in to a low-profile air filter...

:)

I'll post a photo when I'm done.

EDIT: Here you go...

Worked out decent enough.
Tang.jpg
 

DAMIEN1307

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Worked out decent enough.
I am looking at the clutch actuator arm position and am hoping that that means you have the clutch lever pulled in and locked.

On mine, once the bike is cooled down so the pads won't stick on the clutch plate, I release the clutch lever so the rear wheel is locked in place and doesn't keep the clutch spring compressed all the time which can prematurely wear down the springs effectiveness as well as also not keeping tension on the clutch cable all the time to keep cable stretching to a minimum.
 

DAMIEN1307

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Worked out decent enough.
I just had a thought on your carby...In the pic, I know it was taken at a bit of an angle but is that carby sitting straight up and down when its on both its wheels or is it sitting in an angled postion...Too much angle on these gravity feed type carby's and the motor won't run well as it will getting to much gas resulting in four stroking, poor performance, less throttle response etc. as it is litterally drowning in gas and not enough airflow. for proper combustion.

It is a must to have these carbs as level as possible.

If it does have an extreme tilt to it, and having performance issues as described and cannot get enough clearance within the frame, and since that stuppy type intake manifold pipe doesn't have a bend in it like the stock one does to make it level, then you will need an offset type of intake manifold like the one in the URL below.

The first one is for the 40mm hole spacing for the hold down bolts, the second one is for the 32mm hole spacing for the hold down bolts...You will need to know if yours is either 40mm or 32mm hole spacing.

 
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