Engine Trouble someone please help front engine mount bolt broken inside

[crassius]

actually, I like 2 pieces of angle iron - top & bottom, then usually a u-bolt thru each piece

spacers as needed to fit frame & sometimes a good smack with a hammer (before mounting) to get a slight extra bend to fit angle of cruiser frames

I like 2 pieces because this chinese aluminum really seems to fatigue badly after having studs break out, so extra mounting strength for a damaged motor seems a good idea.

 

[mrbg]

That's a good fix

 

[mrbg]

Thanks for the info, I've got 2 bikes 1runs great the other 1I had running great after I rejetted to #64,then cyl head stud backed out I loctited them by lifting the cyl enough to get at the threads basegasket tore a bit I applied gskt sealer it ended up leaking. So ended up having to pull it apart and do it right what a pain. I let it cure for 24hr,I took for a spin its boggin at wot again, looks like I'm gonna have to spray for leak, drivin me nuts.

 

[crassius]

I never use loctite. These studs do not usually unscrew themselves. What they are doing is stretching because the metal is so cheap - if it becomes hard to keep them tight, I go to stronger nuts and/or studs.

 

[mrbg]

Ya i didn't have a problem with 1st bike I just had to retorque a few times but this bike 1 stud was visually higher than the the others, and I think I read a thread about using loktite. Ya that definitely opened a can of worms on the factory basegasket there was a piece of metal hanging on r side into transfer port at 1st I thought it was self jigging but there's 4 studs holding it in place. My replacement gstkt wasn't close to original, I've got some gskt material but I don't think I could pull that one off

 

[dotcom]

update: I took it to my small local hardware store to find out what I could use to grip the reverse thread bit good enough and they suggested a mini pipe wrench and they actually helped me try to extract it. Thats when the extractor bit snapped inside a few mm inside so im tring to decide which method is next. Im guessing either drill that out and try again or the helicoil method or it seems like a sure alternative would be to buy the 3 or 4 foot long piece of angle iron, cut it to size and get'er going. I just wish I could see one already done.

Also, it seems that I drilled alittle deeper than supposed to. Im not exactly sure how much deeper you can drill beyond the stud depth but when I was drilling to try to get deep enough to the end of the bolt, it seems I went a alittle deeper than supposed to. It was only a alittle bit deeper than the other stud (after comparing), but I could feel it was like I drilled through a soft spot and thats when I know I got to the end of the bolt (and then some). Did ruin it? Can anyone tell me how much further beyond that stud hole can be drilled until it's created "a leak" or what have you?

If that indeed happened, would the helicoil method be able to seal it while fixing the initail issue?

Thanks for all the comments

 

[mrbg]

I saw a thread for motor mount using leather around the frame and 2 ubolts top and bottom, but your motor has to sit tight the frame no mounting plate w ubolt or the angle iron method if your unable to remove broken stud.good luck

 

[dougsr.874]

Would not put up with these many problems....get a new motor or quit the hobby.

 

[dotcom]

I saw a thread for motor mount using leather around the frame and 2 ubolts top and bottom, but your motor has to sit tight the frame no mounting plate w ubolt or the angle iron method if your unable to remove broken stud.good luck

I saw that but I am no way doing that. I see a potential problem with it eventually

 

[mrbg]

Ya they're a pain I've had 3 of them to date 2 of them ran good, I have no license at the present time and taking the bus kinda sucks here in Long Beach, CA. Whataya think about the of the modified engine kits?