Chain Tensioner Spring Return Chain Tensioner

misteright1_99

misteright1_99

Member
Local time
4:48 AM
Joined
Mar 16, 2008
Messages
685
Location
Treasure Coast, Florida
I was having a problem keeping my chain taut, and was very unhappy with the stock chain, so off to Tractor Supply for some #41 chain. Got the chain and got to browsing and also picked up a really sweet ball bearing, rubeer coated chain trensioner, AND spring, it is sold seperatly. After mounting the chain I took some 3/8 althread rod, heated it up and bent it into a U shape to fit around seatpost. I cut a strip of metal ( out of stock tensioner mount) to secure allthread. Then I just mounted the spring tensioner to the end of the allthread, the ID of the tensioner seems to be a good fit on 3/8" rod. Then a little adjustment and done. Spent $40. on everything including new chain. I have put a couple of miles on it an it is a lot quieter, and very smooth...
 

Attachments

  • May 2008 008.jpg
    May 2008 008.jpg
    203.5 KB · Views: 9,623
  • May 2008 009.jpg
    May 2008 009.jpg
    224.6 KB · Views: 7,071
  • May 2008 010.jpg
    May 2008 010.jpg
    201.3 KB · Views: 3,484
  • May 2008 011.jpg
    May 2008 011.jpg
    190.1 KB · Views: 3,627
  • May 2008 012.jpg
    May 2008 012.jpg
    204.6 KB · Views: 6,016
  • May 2008 013.jpg
    May 2008 013.jpg
    244.6 KB · Views: 3,871
Dawg,that's pretty insane! What is that tensioner originally for?
I think we have a Tractor supply here in Colorado.
Where would it be in the store?
And is that chain thinner than the factory chain,thicker? Same size?
It even looks like that can go on the original location for bikes that don't have room below their engine.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
They had the tensioner in the section with centrifugal clutches, and parts for atv's, mini bikes etc. It is made for atv's to keep chain taut. It is rubber and a set of ball bearings inside. As for the chain Large it is the same pitch, but is wider and appears much better made. It is like $14. for 10 feet. I read alot of posts where people were switching, and I only have approx. 50 miles on my bike, but did not like the stock chain. The one thing about the tensioner I did have to remove the front derailer (sp), I might have been able to move it up but would have had to move engine also.. I am thinking now about using the front derailer shifter as a remote choke lol.... but thats another day and another post....
 
Sweet, some great ideas for tomorrow!!!! lol. I wish I had the patience to take pics as I go along. I know it would help other people. But once I "get into it" I have a one track mind. So many of the posts have step by step pics, that have helped me or given me ideas. I liked your idea on the clutch lever, but went for extending the lever that comes out of the engine, and moving it inward (toward clutch cable anchor) that helped immensly on my hand...
 

Attachments

  • April 2008 010.jpg
    April 2008 010.jpg
    470.4 KB · Views: 3,255
I had someone ask me about the parts I used. I looked on TCS website and they do not show them. It looks like they carry them as accessories for their line of mini bikes "Baja Motorsports". Anyone interested the part numbers are as follows:
#165-063 Chain Tensioner with roller.
#165-280 Chain Tensioner Spring...
 
That is a really good looking tensioner. Very nice work!

Go ahead and do the remote choke. The extra (exterior) clutch spring makes and excellent return spring for the handlebar choke lever. I made one for my wife's bike and it works like a charm.
 
That is a nice tensioner- I bought that roller wheel at TSC last year and have not figured out how to use it. Your design is very good, but due to my specific engine and frame, I cannot lift the design intact- you have inspired me though. Thanks!
 
Allthread and chain solution

misteright1_99 said:
I was having a problem keeping my chain taut, and was very unhappy with the stock chain, so off to Tractor Supply for some #41 chain. Got the chain and got to browsing and also picked up a really sweet ball bearing, rubeer coated chain trensioner, AND spring, it is sold seperatly. After mounting the chain I took some 3/8 althread rod, heated it up and bent it into a U shape to fit around seatpost. I cut a strip of metal ( out of stock tensioner mount) to secure allthread. Then I just mounted the spring tensioner to the end of the allthread, the ID of the tensioner seems to be a good fit on 3/8" rod. Then a little adjustment and done. Spent $40. on everything including new chain. I have put a couple of miles on it an it is a lot quieter, and very smooth...
Click to expand...

That is a supurb roller no doubt. I bought everything except the spring (out of stock) and started putting it together. The first thing was bending the allthread, even with a blowtorch and oven mitts, it was nearly impossible to bend. When i did get it around the right shape, the apex had cracked from stress. I also took a few teeth off my hacksaw cutting it.
After i gave up in the allthread, i used the tensioner bracket, drilled to 3/8" cut one end off and used bolts. This almost worked but the screws from the engine got in the way of aligning the rolller, it also pushed the "bottom" chain too close to the " top" chain.
After that failed i tried to mount it where the original one went. This was working fine untill 10ft later the chain had grabbed the roller and bent the arm.

As a last resort, i took out another 2 links of my chain and loosened the back wheel nuts. I originally didn't think i had the wiggle room for my wheel. Put the master link in, pulled the wheel tight and straight, tighten the bolts and Presto! My first bike finally works perfectly!

I would recommend taking out links with a chain tool ( i used a bike chain tool for #50 chain, still worked out okay) than wasting time with a tensioner
 
Back
Top