whatever. sorry. a refurbished norton.
back to the OP and subjects directly relating to the OP...
assuming as it is, the km48 shaft on the left, drive to crank, and crank drives gearbox on the right, as per standard( for the pundit i better mention harley which is on the left or maybe even kawasaki with a primary chain drive)
so, rotate km48, shafts on right hand side, should be spinning the right way too...
and have you got the thing up and running yet? video
I haven't got it running yet, I'm still waiting to get some apex seal springs in the mail (didn't want to risk it with homemade springs and have the tension wrong).
Also, I can't start the engine till it's in the bike. Cuz my ignition is a weed wacker bottom end and flywheel, with a 4 stroke ignition coil atatched, that's going to have it's crank welded to the left side of the e-shaft (and yes, I ground off the counterweights lol). Therefore I can manually adjust the ignition on the flu until I find the sweet spot (just manually rotate the bottom end to change the timing. I'll have a bracket with long slits in it, that the lower end can be bolted in place to, so the bottom end can be rotated and then cranked down onto the bracket when the timing is set. It's hard to explain, I can post a drawing if you want.
The box is off a beat up 89 Kawi kd80x with a blown back tire (burnout), no spark, seized forks, etc.(a rare bike, parts are impossible to get). I bought it off a friend's dad, he wanted $100 for the whole bike, and wouldn't sell just the motor for any less. And there was no chance my parents would let be being home a complete bike, so I was sorta stuck and had to buy just the motor for $100. Still a better deal than getting a box off ebay, cuz this comes with a top end, 2 new wiseco pistons, a carb, expansion chamber, etc. The friends dad agreed to let me keep the bike frame at their place until I sell it for 20$ or something.
It's a 5 speed, 1 down 4 up.
The actual gears are in mint condition, but the actual engine was completely done for. Crank was full of water and the bearings had 1mm of play, big end and wrist pin are pitted beyond belief (good thing I'm not using most of those parts).
The output sprocket will be on the crank, on the magneto side of the case, and I'll be cutting a big hole for the chain to run out of. I'm not actually using the crank because I didn't want to have to grind off the counterweights to balance it. (I have no way to balance test it anyways). The crank bearing ID is a wierd side, somewhere between 3/4" and 13/16". However I managed to find a shaft that fits the bearings fine, it's a gearshaft from that rm125 case I got (which was missing more than half of the parts, but was supposed to be complete).
And I'm just beginning to get into the wierd things about this build, have I mentioned turning down the massive cast steel flywheel on a lathe to make the engine fit in the frame correctly? Yeah, I knew this means having no more counterweight on the flywheel, so I need to build a homemade adjustable counterweight, and experiment with adding washers until it stops vibrating
that old flywheel was too heavy anyways.
But seriously, every part that isn't homemade is modified somehow. When I make a build thread when it's done, the explanation of how it works will take me days to type lol. A lot of that being from my homemade v-tec of sorts with 3 adjustable weedeater carbs, and 1 being used at low rpm, but the others activating only at high rpm:helmet:
I can't wait to see the dyno numbers, with this plus tons other crazy mods I'm doing!
The engine's shaft'll be sticking out the left side. Otherwise it would be spinning backwards (unless I drive it off the fan side of the crank)
I'm contemplating making a custom frame with thick (like 3/8" thick) wall pipes, but getting all the parts aligned and mitered properly would be a huge pain. 1mm change in the position of the headtube and the angle is affected by a lot of degrees, and any side to side misalignment and the headtube is being twisted side to side too