adrian101
Member
Wooo thank god for that, I've been running semi synthetic oil for months now lol
Weird engine noises?
- Thread starter Oddzball
- Start date
Wooo thank god for that, I've been running semi synthetic oil for months now lol
Sounds like the DTG is more knowledgeable on these power units than I.
Good advice from him, IMO.
If the engine runs better overall with the new needle adjustment, that's good.
... but it's more complicated than that... as DTG said, they may run fat in the mid range typically... I don't yet have direct experience with these china engines... No matter, plenty similarities in all 2 cycle motors. it's a cloned design from a russian engine cloned from a german design... Lol
I bet Ole Evinrude is somewhere in the woodpile!
Anyways... with the 'rising sun' bikes, jets were available, along with many different needle options, and some slide mods could be done also...
So not only the size jet is a factor, the change in taper of the needle is an influence, along with the position it is used in.
I just don't know enough about these, yet, so can't make specific advice.
Jets can be drilled larger with a tiny number/letter drill set.
Or, they can be drilled out BIG, a piece of brazing rod drove in, and you can begin again with smaller holes.
If you are fat at midrange, but lean at top, that could mean main jet is too small and needle is too high, or skinny in size.
Lean on bottom end is idle mix adjustment and carb slide shape... try a <1/8" square filed into the bottom of the rear of the slide to stabilize an erratic idle.
Change, modify, or otherwise mess with the exhaust pipe... all the prior changes are OUT THE WINDOW! Lol
A sparkplug change could bring a significant difference !
I agree 100% with the mix oil statements. It's NOT critical on these motors until you really try for top level racing performance. Way back when, I used amsoil at 50:1 when I was trying to wring the most out of a 2 stroke... that was already broke in.
Otherwise, they don't really care long as somethings in there for lubrication.
With crummy oil, mixed too heavy, you'll foul plugs and build carbon in the chamber. Too much oil actually leans the mix, because it replaces that amount of fuel.
DTG is right!!! Pop the top and have a look in there!
Grab a couple wrenches and do it at the curb of the bike shop that has any parts you may need ! Are you in a big city where you actually HAVE a shop that sells the parts? BONUS!
Have some extra plugs on hand, and get a small can of never-seize thread goop to use on the sparkplug thread so the head doesn't strip out. ...You can try indexing your sparkplug, for the 'racer's edge'.
Use the W&D sandpaper method on a flat surface with a rotating motion to clean up the head/cylinder joining surface. Use a thinner/better head gasket to pump the compression a little.
A thinner cylinder base gasket will change port timing a little... try it!
Use a dremel tool or chainsaw file to widen the intake and tranfer ports a mm or so... DON"T raise the top of the port ! Lol
If it's shredding rings, you can round off the very edge of the ports just a very little bit to ease the transition as the rings fly by...
And THIS has gone on FAR too long! Lol
Have fun!
rc
Somewhere in there should be to run the best gas you can get...
Good advice from him, IMO.
If the engine runs better overall with the new needle adjustment, that's good.
... but it's more complicated than that... as DTG said, they may run fat in the mid range typically... I don't yet have direct experience with these china engines... No matter, plenty similarities in all 2 cycle motors. it's a cloned design from a russian engine cloned from a german design... Lol
I bet Ole Evinrude is somewhere in the woodpile!
Anyways... with the 'rising sun' bikes, jets were available, along with many different needle options, and some slide mods could be done also...
So not only the size jet is a factor, the change in taper of the needle is an influence, along with the position it is used in.
I just don't know enough about these, yet, so can't make specific advice.
Jets can be drilled larger with a tiny number/letter drill set.
Or, they can be drilled out BIG, a piece of brazing rod drove in, and you can begin again with smaller holes.
If you are fat at midrange, but lean at top, that could mean main jet is too small and needle is too high, or skinny in size.
Lean on bottom end is idle mix adjustment and carb slide shape... try a <1/8" square filed into the bottom of the rear of the slide to stabilize an erratic idle.
Change, modify, or otherwise mess with the exhaust pipe... all the prior changes are OUT THE WINDOW! Lol
A sparkplug change could bring a significant difference !
I agree 100% with the mix oil statements. It's NOT critical on these motors until you really try for top level racing performance. Way back when, I used amsoil at 50:1 when I was trying to wring the most out of a 2 stroke... that was already broke in.
Otherwise, they don't really care long as somethings in there for lubrication.
With crummy oil, mixed too heavy, you'll foul plugs and build carbon in the chamber. Too much oil actually leans the mix, because it replaces that amount of fuel.
DTG is right!!! Pop the top and have a look in there!
Grab a couple wrenches and do it at the curb of the bike shop that has any parts you may need ! Are you in a big city where you actually HAVE a shop that sells the parts? BONUS!
Have some extra plugs on hand, and get a small can of never-seize thread goop to use on the sparkplug thread so the head doesn't strip out. ...You can try indexing your sparkplug, for the 'racer's edge'.
Use the W&D sandpaper method on a flat surface with a rotating motion to clean up the head/cylinder joining surface. Use a thinner/better head gasket to pump the compression a little.
A thinner cylinder base gasket will change port timing a little... try it!
Use a dremel tool or chainsaw file to widen the intake and tranfer ports a mm or so... DON"T raise the top of the port ! Lol
If it's shredding rings, you can round off the very edge of the ports just a very little bit to ease the transition as the rings fly by...
And THIS has gone on FAR too long! Lol
Have fun!
rc
Somewhere in there should be to run the best gas you can get...
Oddzball
Member
SO i figured out what the noise was.. my drum brake was shot, kept getting stuck and making the noise..
SO i removed my drum brake pads and made it a freewheel.. sorta...
SO i removed my drum brake pads and made it a freewheel.. sorta...
DuctTapedGoat
Active Member
Wow, totally wouldn't have guessed that.
Oddzball
Member
Thats not sarcasm is it?
Nah i wouldnt have noticed except when i was pushing it, clutch was ocmpletely disengaged and back wheel kept getting stuck slightly.
Was not only making the squeeling noise but the added stress of the engine of having to fight the brake was making it bog down.
Now if i could just get the f-ing carb to work right, i would be golden.
Nah i wouldnt have noticed except when i was pushing it, clutch was ocmpletely disengaged and back wheel kept getting stuck slightly.
Was not only making the squeeling noise but the added stress of the engine of having to fight the brake was making it bog down.
Now if i could just get the f-ing carb to work right, i would be golden.
DuctTapedGoat
Active Member
Serious - no sarcasm, that wasn't even a fleeting thought! I'm glad you at least got that figured out though. Now for carb fun!
Oddzball
Member
Seriously, I am gonna take a dman hammer to that carb.
You know I was running it without a air filter and it ran great though... I know i know, dont run stuff without an airfilter, but frankly i doubt that **** black songe blocks much dust anyway.
You know I was running it without a air filter and it ran great though... I know i know, dont run stuff without an airfilter, but frankly i doubt that **** black songe blocks much dust anyway.
DuctTapedGoat
Active Member
Ya know then - you might try taking a drill to your air filter to increase flow - that's the cheap and easy way to increase air to fuel.
If it runs noticeably better with the air cleaner off, that's a sure sign the filter is junk!
and that will stifle a 2 stroke and choke it back to nothing until it loads up so bad it won't run anymore...
No point in messing with the needle or jet until you get a decent air cleaner on it.
See if there's a K & N type filter available for starters that will adapt to it...
Lol
Are we having fun yet?
rc
and that will stifle a 2 stroke and choke it back to nothing until it loads up so bad it won't run anymore...
No point in messing with the needle or jet until you get a decent air cleaner on it.
See if there's a K & N type filter available for starters that will adapt to it...
Lol
Are we having fun yet?
rc
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