Engine Trouble What did I do to my engine?

[YetiWoodz]

Is the motor NEW and broke in. ?. If not they don't like synthetic oil during the break in period.
Synthetic oil is too slippery to use .

It will break in using full synthetic. I used Amsoil full synthetic at 40:1. It was a new cylinder I put on, it had the cross hatch on the walls which is supposed to get removed as it breaks in. And it will be a lot smoother to the touch.

Now after taking apart the engine, the rings and cylinder have been broken in. The walls are smooth and the nitride layer of the piston rings are removed and everything is shiny.

 

[Chainlube]

The jet doesn’t seem to be lose, I opened it and the throttle moves the little cylinder up and down properly and I have checked for clogging, I screwed everything back. However when I was pouring the fuel out from the carb, there seems to of been dirt coming out. The float was clean, all of the little holes were clean. So I’m wondering if that was the issue? Still waiting on my new chain to test. But how could revving it in idle cause dirt to appear in the carb.

Fuel can get silt in it in many ways, #1 at the pump. #2 if you're not careful mixing it up. Take your fuel tank off and remove the petcock, put some straight gas (not much, a cup) in the tank, finger over the hole and give it a shake and drain it out into a clean container and see what comes out.
Take your carb off the engine, flip it over and remove the float bowl and rinse the workings inside with some clean gas too. Then put it back together and test.

Carby - NT Carburetor Assembly Pics

the not-so magic carb okay...let's take this puppy apart here are a couple views of the brass slide/needle & float/bowl full choke no choke assembled pic of slide/needle cable removed. note the funny slotted washer, must be on top of the needle and clip. this allows the...

motoredbikes.com

If you look at the last picture of the first post, there is a double spring board looking thing that the float rides up on, behind that is the float needle and the little orifice can get silt in it and make it function poorly.

 

[zacharyk0511]

Fuel can get silt in it in many ways, #1 at the pump. #2 if you're not careful mixing it up. Take your fuel tank off and remove the petcock, put some straight gas (not much, a cup) in the tank, finger over the hole and give it a shake and drain it out into a clean container and see what comes out.
Take your carb off the engine, flip it over and remove the float bowl and rinse the workings inside with some clean gas too. Then put it back together and test.

Carby - NT Carburetor Assembly Pics

the not-so magic carb okay...let's take this puppy apart here are a couple views of the brass slide/needle & float/bowl full choke no choke assembled pic of slide/needle cable removed. note the funny slotted washer, must be on top of the needle and clip. this allows the...

motoredbikes.com

If you look at the last picture of the first post, there is a double spring board looking thing that the float rides up on, behind that is the float needle and the little orifice can get silt in it and make it function poorly.

I took it all apart today, cleaned it everything was clean. I assembled everything back, it starts okay, when I throttle it, it doesn’t go fast like before. It only starts going fast if I pedal at fast speeds then it stays at that speed or if I’m going down a hill.

 

[mony0_3]

Check the compression, 120 psi. is good.

 

[wan37]

If it’s a NT carburetor pull off air filter . Now move the choke lever up and down a watch it move. The nut might be lose on the choke lever and it stays in one spot . So check it’s opening and closing.

 

[Axl Myk]

Throttle cable might not be attached right. Is there a slotted washer under the spring, and over the needle e-clip.

 

[Joel beller]

Hello guys,

I recently purchased a motorized bike with a zeda engine.

Yesterday, I pulled the clutch and started revving it just to show off the sound.

Now when I go to drive it, it seems to not accelerate and only goes faster if I pedal and when I pull the clutch to rev everything dies.

I’m not sure what I’m doing wrong, it was working just fine until I revved it. I opened the muffler and saw the gasket was cracked so I took it off and waiting for a new one, but even without the muffler the same issue occurs.

Another thing is; when I bought it, it already came with a tank of pre-mixed gas. I am now running a 30:1 full synthetic mix, so I’m not sure if that is making a difference either. I asked the original owner and he had 32:1 lucas semi-synthetic mix in there.

I know others here have experience and knowledge so I am asking for help, it was very fun and I really want to get back on my bike.

My last motor was a Zeda 80 New edition I was using the Lucas semi synthetic motor ran good for 2 weeks shut it off one morning and went to go turn it back on the next night motor froze up on me only lasted couple weeks people say don't use semi synthetic you live and learn so I spend $180 on a new zeta 80 motor and only lasted a couple weeks I have a bikeberry motor that runs awesome I rebuilt it and it's going on 2 years old just rebuilt it recently. I did everything by the book when I bought my zeta 80 motor and it seem like everyday I was doing something to keep it running tightening the screws kept coming loose carburetor coming loose gaskets leaking but rather than that it ran good for a couple weeks. Now I'm stripping that motor to keep my bike berry motor running.