Wiring diagram for A motorcycle style control box.

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Midwest Rider

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A motorcycle style control box.

I bought this damn thing off grease bay and Walla no wiring diagram..... There are 9 wires coming from the plug. Dark green, White, Black on the first set of 3. Grey, Dark blue and Dark green with an orange/red stripe in the middle. Orange, Light green and Light blue on the right. Also separate wire that is Blue with a white stripe. Then 2 short leads that are Green one with an Orange stripe.

Any direction from y'all would be appreciated. Thanks
 
A motorcycle style control box.

I bought this damn thing off grease bay and Walla no wiring diagram..... There are 9 wires coming from the plug. Dark green, White, Black on the first set of 3. Grey, Dark blue and Dark green with an orange/red stripe in the middle. Orange, Light green and Light blue on the right. Also separate wire that is Blue with a white stripe. Then 2 short leads that are Green one with an Orange stripe.

Any direction from y'all would be appreciated. Thanks
Maybe better question would be. How the hell do I figure this out ?
 
maybe you should say what a "motorcycle style control box" is - never heard of those
 
A motorcycle style control box.

I bought this damn thing off grease bay and Walla no wiring diagram..... There are 9 wires coming from the plug. Dark green, White, Black on the first set of 3. Grey, Dark blue and Dark green with an orange/red stripe in the middle. Orange, Light green and Light blue on the right. Also separate wire that is Blue with a white stripe. Then 2 short leads that are Green one with an Orange stripe.

Any direction from y'all would be appreciated. Thanks

I am working on the exact same thing.

I am using a Ground Block, epoxied onto a stiff rubber insulator. I affixed it to the the top tube.

Ground the battery to a good spot on the frame. Run the battery positive to the ground block. The positives on the devices run to the ground block. Negative leads to the frame.

You’ll need an interrupter (on-off switch) to keep the battery from draining out when not in use. You’ll have to experiment to see which of your switch wires controls which devices and wire them appropriately.
 
Yeah that's kinda what I figured when the horn button lit up the light but nothing else. Couldn't do it the easy way nnnnooooooooo. One hot wire several grounds.
 
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Gave up on the MC handle bar cotrol ( China made POS) went thru every configuration I could come up with and still only had a horn. Hit AutoZone and picked up a DPDT switch, put it on the control box. 2 Novita NP 35 flasher units, box of connectors, shrink tube, roll of red and black 16 ga. wire. Farted around at the kitchen island for an hour with jumpers off the battery and guess what, the friggin thing works. For me that's pretty friggin good. Going out to mount up the lights and switch. Video to come later tonight maybe. Mama happy maybe she won't get all freaked when I take off for work at 0230
 
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I really like your initiative on this and I am very curious to see what this looks like. Maybe a parts list and a simple schematic could be offered. This could really help builders. Thanks!
 
I really like your initiative on this and I am very curious to see what this looks like. Maybe a parts list and a simple schematic could be offered. This could really help builders. Thanks!
No problem on the parts list Tim. As far as schematics,. I'll have to do some doodling in MS paint (. I can't draw for s**t ).

Parts list
Open end blade connectors several.
Box 100 female blade connectors 1/4 "
Box 100 male blade connectors 1/4"
BOTH IN THE GAUGE WIRE YOU ARE WORKING WITH. Mine is probably Overkill but 16 is what I used throughout.

4 rolls of wire @ 30 ft 2 red 2 black pick your own gauge. 18 would do ya but... I don't know electrical.

1 DPDT toggle. You can get these anywhere, eBay AutoZone etc.

2 Novita EP 35 flashers ( LED SPECIFIC DO NOT buy anything but led specific )

6 LED marker lights 4 Amber 2 red. 5 will do ya if you don't plan on a brake light. Make sure they have 2 wires coming out the back unless you ground to frame. Then one wire will do ya and slightly cheaper.

Solder and iron if you know what you are doing, I don't, so crimp and Heat shrink tube. Kinda makes it look perfeshanal plus covers and protects the connection. Use even if you do solder, but it's up to you. Continuous roll. Don't buy the precut s**t, yer throwing money away.

3/4 inch flexduit. It's the plastic stuff. Bottom shelf below either the connectors or switches at the Big A.

Obligatory zip ties. Your choice of colors and lengths.

Roll of black tape. Just in case.

8 X 8 junction box, Menards electrical Dept. Pricey but when you jam a 97 dollar battery and all the relays, bus bar and fuse block in there, you want it protected from the elements as much as possible.

4x4 junction box same as above.

3 very colorful toggle switches ( red yellow and blue ). Don't waste your money unless you like that s**t. Get waterproof toggles you'll love yourself when riding in a sudden rainstorm. So will your electronics.

Battery of your choice. Mine is a 12 volt ( did I mention this is a 12 volt system ? ) 10 amp hour li-on lifepo4, whatever. f***er wasn't cheap but under 3 pounds. Weight is important in the junction box. Plus you can mount it in any position. And my dumb ass bought 2 of them.

Tools

Wire cutters/ stripper/ combo tool. Spend more than 7 bucks. You'll be happy you did.

Channel locks

Needle nose

Solder and iron ( optional,. Some would say NOT but I suck at soldering and this ain't a job that you want to learn on )

Bic lighter: remember the shrink tube ? Heat gun otherwise..

Send wife or girlfriend or both off to their mother's for the weekend. Or out with their girlfriends for the day. You don't want to be pestered when you are doing this.

Clean your garage. No kidding. Do it. At least sweep the friggin floor.

Arrange a chair to sit and work, milk crate to keep tools handy. Also your beer, And parts that will be used constantly, it seems like. Assign a space for the beer chiller, preferably close at hand.

As needed, when dealing with the connectors. I pulled the plastic blue non closing, can't crimp down hard enough, starts a melted mess if soldered, off. Channel locks, squeeze the bell end and take your needle nose and GENTLY rotate back and forth while pulling the plastic waste off. You are gonna break em and distort them. But mostly a light touch will provide excellent results. Good luck finding the ones without the plastic crap on them. And don't buy the fully sheathed ones either. Total waste of money IMO.

The above should explain why the heat shrink. Really it does look pretty " manufactured ". Cut a s**tload of them 1 inch long and keep in a container next to your milk crate.

And for those that don't have a " frame " stand. Throw a load tie down over a rafter and the other end around the top tube. Draw snug. The inevitable mini heart attack is easily avoided this way.

Make sure BC is full and proceed to enjoy you afternoon, day or weekend in the original man cave.

Sorry it's long winded, but at least a little entertaining. any questions just ask here. ✌️all of the parts were purchased at AutoZone,. O'Reilly, or Advance,. Your choice if you have one.

Enjoy
 
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get us a pic of your handlebar control. I have 2 of them and if yours is the same, it might be easy peasy. the China ones on fleabay are only like 5 different ones. won't be hard to track down, tho trial and error testing will take about an hour
 
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