Clutch

Sorry guys, not a chance of DIY.

The replacement sleeve must be purchased in volume to get reasonable cost. The original sleeve must be removed [easy to do on a lathe as it is so soft it is like cutting butter with a hot knife], the remaining shoulder must be turned down to .93482" and the hardened sleeve must be pressed on. The replacement sleeve is too long and must be ground down to size [a tool bit on the lathe won't even scratch it must less cut it to size].

A special arbor must be used to center the clutch hub and is pressed into the center of the housing [where the small bearings are located]to chuck in the lathe, as it must be true center or clutch will vibrate when spinning.

Just a fair warning, several have tried to have local machine shops do this work and most often the clutch was destroyed in the process. If not careful the center will "snap" from the drum if too much pressure is used when pressing sleeve onto the hub, or if hub isn't turned down exactly for press fit.

The object is to remove the soft sleeve and replace with a "real" hardened sleeve, and make sure it is 100% straight in the process. The replacement sleeve is hardened to Rockwell 58 and is highly polished.

Have fun,
 
Thanks Quenton,
1. What kind of money is involved to have You do it?

2. What needs to be shipped to You from the Whizzer?

3. From 2005 has the NE5 motors , are they also all bad all the way to 2012 Whizzers or just these old ones? Mine is 99
 
Hi kayaker,

All the clutch parts will be custom made, none from Whizzer USA or foreign countries.

The main parts of the clutch will be made by Max-Torque, and the drive pulleys, one-way bearing, hardened bearing sleeve, bearings, seals, spacers, mounting bolt, and large assembly washer will be made or obtained in the USA. The actual clutch drive will be the same as currently used in the EZM Q-Matic drive, however the drive pulleys will be custom made by one of our vendors in CA.

I am hoping to supply for slightly more than you can buy the poorly designed clutch from Tiawan, and of course it will actually work.

The 1999 to 2004 has the WC-1 motor and will need the valve seats modified to stay in place.
The 2005 to 2007 needs the lifters replaced with mushroom lifters.
The 2007 to 2009 needs the stock mushroom lifters upgraded [not straight, too heavy].

All versions need some upgrades, as none will work correctly as delivered.

Have fun,
 
Thanks Quenton, is this Your New Clutch You are working on You are telling Me about?
1. What Is involved in rebuilding Mine with You current method?
2. Prices what to ship to You?
3. How much time involved in the Fix?
 
MVC-010S.JPGMVC-001S.JPGMVC-003S.JPGMVC-004S.JPGHi Kayaker58,

The majority of whizzer clutches can be upgraded, however a few versions can't be. The current version offered on EBay, and one version of the 70 MM series can't be salvaged. The 2 types that can't be modified share the same design flaw, and it concerns the amount of metal left after the shaft is cut to accept the hardened bearing sleeve. The vendor elected to add additional bearings instead of using a quality spacer between the 2 and therefore ended up with a total of 5. In order to add the extra bearings the hub has to be under cut deeper to allow 2 on one side and 3 on the other. All this, just to avoid installing a good spacer is hard for me to understand. I will attach photos detailing the differences. One picture will show 2 hubs with the bearing shaft "snapped' off, the one on the left is [was] the rebuildable version someone used too much pressure installing the sleeve [that would be me], and the other is the later multiple bearing version. Other pictures will show why the sleeve can't be removed and replaced on the current version offered because it would also snap off at the base.


Have fun,
 
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