quick exhaust from emt condiuit
- Thread starter el diablo guapo
- Start date
Wisconsin Tinkerer
New Member
I do believe the OP stated that he had a small welder and this was a hobby for him. El Diablo ? I do hope you enjoy your hobby. Some here take it too seriously. :snobby: BTW cool ride. Welding is a skill and an art. Painting is an art and a skill. Just as our rides are rolling art and the skill that we have put into them to make them just so. With that being said, Ride safe and don't inhale the fumes. Beer is bad enough 
JK. and welcome to the forum.
JK. and welcome to the forum.Wisconsin Tinkerer
New Member
learn to weld, doofus!
and how to work a grinder. look at those gouge marks!
take the paint off first?
for examples of workmanship...you know how to find pretty lousy shots!
LMAO
Good welds Heads and I was wondering if the last shot is one of your helper ?
JK Had one of those myself for 12 years pretty kick ass mouser around the shop.
HeadSmess
Well-Known Member
- Local time
- 7:03 PM
- Joined
- May 17, 2010
- Messages
- 3,048
LMAO
Good welds Heads and I was wondering if the last shot is one of your helper ?
cheers. pretty mediocre, really...but they havent busted yet! is a swingarm on a quad i rebuilt... only took a pic at the time cus it was an overhead fillet. even i was impressed for once. dont always get that result! not on something important, at least...
no, not my helper
the rats round here would eat it! ive just found with certain..."touchy"...people, its best to search images that they post... so, in searching my own photo...all i found was something "visually similar". if you squint real hard, stand back about 5 metres, and look through a brick, you can just about see the resemblance! (the tan matches the rust i think?)Wisconsin Tinkerer
New Member
well ..... if they haven't busted yet then they are good and looking good is plus. Doesn't look like too much grinding on those IMO. BTW I stole your " helpers " pic to put on my wife's desktop. If you have an issue , just let me know I will resolve it. Thank you for sharing your insight and knowledge of our " hobby "
WT
I will resolve it. Thank you for sharing your insight and knowledge of our " hobby " WT
Preparing to Weld: Welding Joint Preparation
Before beginning any welding project, remember thewelding joint preparation5P rule: prior preparation prevents poor performance. You can make the best weld in the world.but it might not hold if you failed to remove potential contaminates before welding.
To start, remove oil, grease, cutting fluid and lubricants with a chemical cleaner. Non-chlorinated chemical solvents (preferred) include acetone, toluene and methyl ethyl ketone (MEK). Chlorinated solves include trichloroethane. Whatever solvent you use, be sure that it won't react what you're cleaning and always work in a properly ventilated area. After cleaning, use a wire brush to remove traces of solvent. Always remove the solvent container, rags and other flammable materials from your work area prior to welding!
Next, use a wire brush or grinder and remove rust, scale, dirt, paint, ink, coatings and dross from oxy-fuel or plasma cutting. If you weld aluminum or stainless steel, use a stainless steel brush or grinding wheel dedicated exclusively to these alloys. Trying to clean them with a steel brush or wheel that previously cleaned another alloys will introduce small grains of that alloy into the base material and subsequently contaminate the welding joint preparation process.
A special note about cleaning aluminum: aluminum reacts with air to form aluminum oxide (it's that white powder on an old screen door). Aluminum melts at about 1,200o F and aluminum oxide melts at about 3,700o F. As you can imagine, trying to weld substances with vastly different melting points leads to trouble. Because the aluminum oxide layer forms instantly, always clean aluminum immediately prior to welding.
If the metal has been outside or in an area that's particularly cold or damp, bring it inside and let it warm to room temperature for at least 24 hours. You may also want to consider heating your base material so that it's at least above 70o F using an oxy-fuel torch with a heating attachment (or place small components on an electric stove top).
Welders also heat the base material up to about 250o F to increase penetration on thicker metals, to drive moisture away from the weld area and to prevent the weld cracking (a large piece of cold steel will draw heat away from the welding area, and rapid cooling can lead to weld cracking). Consider investing a few dollars in "temp sticks, special crayon-like sticks that melt at a specific temperature. Mark the base metal with the temp stick prior to welding; the mark will melt within 1% of its stated temperature.
*Note that numerous commercial welding applications require specific pre-heat, post-weld heat treatment and stress relief procedures that supersede all of the above advice.
http://victortechnologies.com/Shop_Talk/Thermal_Arc/preparing-to-weld.php
http://www.g-w.com/pdf/sampchap/9781590708668_ch06.pdf
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3BkgsG-j6KU
http://www.weldinghelp.org/joint-preparation.html
Guess they do not have this information where others in posting in this thread live.
Do it the right way or follow these clowns it is your choice.
Just because you own a welder does not mean you can properly use one!!!
Before beginning any welding project, remember thewelding joint preparation5P rule: prior preparation prevents poor performance. You can make the best weld in the world.but it might not hold if you failed to remove potential contaminates before welding.
To start, remove oil, grease, cutting fluid and lubricants with a chemical cleaner. Non-chlorinated chemical solvents (preferred) include acetone, toluene and methyl ethyl ketone (MEK). Chlorinated solves include trichloroethane. Whatever solvent you use, be sure that it won't react what you're cleaning and always work in a properly ventilated area. After cleaning, use a wire brush to remove traces of solvent. Always remove the solvent container, rags and other flammable materials from your work area prior to welding!
Next, use a wire brush or grinder and remove rust, scale, dirt, paint, ink, coatings and dross from oxy-fuel or plasma cutting. If you weld aluminum or stainless steel, use a stainless steel brush or grinding wheel dedicated exclusively to these alloys. Trying to clean them with a steel brush or wheel that previously cleaned another alloys will introduce small grains of that alloy into the base material and subsequently contaminate the welding joint preparation process.
A special note about cleaning aluminum: aluminum reacts with air to form aluminum oxide (it's that white powder on an old screen door). Aluminum melts at about 1,200o F and aluminum oxide melts at about 3,700o F. As you can imagine, trying to weld substances with vastly different melting points leads to trouble. Because the aluminum oxide layer forms instantly, always clean aluminum immediately prior to welding.
If the metal has been outside or in an area that's particularly cold or damp, bring it inside and let it warm to room temperature for at least 24 hours. You may also want to consider heating your base material so that it's at least above 70o F using an oxy-fuel torch with a heating attachment (or place small components on an electric stove top).
Welders also heat the base material up to about 250o F to increase penetration on thicker metals, to drive moisture away from the weld area and to prevent the weld cracking (a large piece of cold steel will draw heat away from the welding area, and rapid cooling can lead to weld cracking). Consider investing a few dollars in "temp sticks, special crayon-like sticks that melt at a specific temperature. Mark the base metal with the temp stick prior to welding; the mark will melt within 1% of its stated temperature.
*Note that numerous commercial welding applications require specific pre-heat, post-weld heat treatment and stress relief procedures that supersede all of the above advice.
http://victortechnologies.com/Shop_Talk/Thermal_Arc/preparing-to-weld.php
http://www.g-w.com/pdf/sampchap/9781590708668_ch06.pdf
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3BkgsG-j6KU
http://www.weldinghelp.org/joint-preparation.html
Guess they do not have this information where others in posting in this thread live.
Do it the right way or follow these clowns it is your choice.
Just because you own a welder does not mean you can properly use one!!!
Last edited by a moderator:
HeadSmess
Well-Known Member
- Local time
- 7:03 PM
- Joined
- May 17, 2010
- Messages
- 3,048
guess you just dont know when to shutup.
please, please....post some pics OF YOUR OWN. write your own guide and post it rather than plagiarise. anyone can cut and paste. anyone can troll.
its strange...you have all the links at your disposal, but what ive seen of your work, you dont read them or know how to put it into practise.
my darling doofus, wheres some more pics of your trike? your welding prowess glorified for all to see and bow in homage? your artisan like use of an angle grinder? your high precision and exacting tolerances that allowed you to drill 24 random holes rather than on a scribed and popped PCD? could have done better than that with two nails tied together with some string! christ sake!
i openly admit that my welds (for my own personal work, to kill a weekend or two) are mediocre. i openly admit that i broke the cardinal rule of welding on rust. i openly admit that i have no formal qualifications, but strangely, can still pass a 6G test for a job application?
ever tried a 3 pass weld on a pipe by watching a mirror? while hanging upside down over a thirty metre drop? had X-ray or destructive inspection?
and, well...im waiting for your highly sought after advice on how to weld aluminium. lets say a 7170 series. t4, h2 perhaps, that was used as a brace in a boat hull, for instance, and i want to retain those properties.
i want to know - preheat temperatures, what current to run on 6mm plate, what size electrode to use, what duty cycle to use, what post treatment procedures are necessary, what size filler rods and what alloy, what joint prep there should be, how many passes, and
I DONT WANT A LINK OR A CUT AND PASTE BUT IN YOUR OWN WORDS.
(its a bit of a joke, as theres actually no set RULES on setup on something like that...but a few basic guidelines will do i guess? seeing as your handing out the free advice?)
cmon doofus
is it precipitation hardening? is it solution hardening, work hardening, or age hardening?
i do agree with you wholeheartedly. just because you own something doesnt mean you can use it...
YOU own a welder. but YOU obviously CANT USE IT!
Racie35
Member
Headsmess. 3. Ibdayank 0 2nd Qtr
Sidewinder Jerry
Well-Known Member
Racie35 and HeadSmess what I've learned in life is you may be the greatest in the world at something but a terrible teacher. Teaching is a skill within itself. Nobody wants to be taught by someone who at any time may go off on you. It makes you not want to hear anything they have to say; no matter how right they might be. Thank God most of the members here are willing to give the same respect you give them.
When it comes to teaching you're only as good as the person you taught. I did electrical work for 30 years. I never failed an inspection or missed a deadline. Still in spite of my knowledge there was times a green helper taught me something new. Nobody will ever know everything; it doesn't matter how good you are. You simply can't teach by insulting the student. A good teachers provides useful information then is ready to answer questions afterwards.
The two of you have taught me many useful things. I feel I can come to either of you and several others here for help. Still even for those who lack teaching skills, I try to learn from any useful information that they provided.
When it comes to teaching you're only as good as the person you taught. I did electrical work for 30 years. I never failed an inspection or missed a deadline. Still in spite of my knowledge there was times a green helper taught me something new. Nobody will ever know everything; it doesn't matter how good you are. You simply can't teach by insulting the student. A good teachers provides useful information then is ready to answer questions afterwards.
The two of you have taught me many useful things. I feel I can come to either of you and several others here for help. Still even for those who lack teaching skills, I try to learn from any useful information that they provided.
