Fabian
Well-Known Member
Very nice work on your jackshaft assembly
panheadman
New Member
Thanks tskrem, I have about 250 miles on it now and it has worked well. I have had it up to 45mph, and I weigh 248lbs. I'm sure that it will go faster as I have yet to get to 6th speed. I put a shimano mega-range freewheel on the back for better low-end which really helps--the only time I have to pedal is to start the motor.
keatonx
Member
Have any of you with jack shaft/shift kits had issues with the rear cassette freewheel blowing? On my 2 stroke lawnmower bike (which has a jack shaft) the cassette freewheel stopped catching within less than 10 mins of riding. I replaced it and the new one blew at around 30 minutes of riding. Given, this was a 140cc 2 stroke that made 4hp stock (and I've done ALOT of porting, etc), but i still can't imagine it being reliable with a HT.
So after those 2 freewheels I welded the cassette directly to a spare wheel (a front wheel with the wrong axle length lol), with NO freewheel. Seems like a simple solution eh? NOT lol, because on decel the dereilleur would get sucked into the rear sprockets and the top of the chain would go slack. So what I've done is added another dereilleur at the top of the chain to act as a chain tensioner, an idler wheel infront of it to make it pull the chain farther for the lower gears. I also have an idler on the bottom length of chain that pushes it way out, so that the chain line doesn't pull the dereilleur up into the sprockets before the chain goes taut. And there's a limiter plate that shields the sprockets from the dereilleur (which was a hard part, it needed to shield the dereilleur in alot of different positions (the different sprockets' radius' affect the dereilleur angle), without interfering with anything. There u go, 3 months of daily trial and error in a paragraph. But it still doesn't work properly, I usually spend days to weeks working on it, take it out on a ride and it breaks before I'm out of my driveway, then I spend days fixing it again. Repeat.
I've had it working well a few times tho, but they don't usually last. When I make it off the driveway, it usually fails at high speeds, and by failing I mean the wheel locking up lol. I only have 30kms in total on this bike. So I think I'm going to install one of the more robust freewheels mentioned earlier in this thread and either weld it onto the wheel or a pulley on my jackshaft, but keep all my other stuff I built for when I didn't have a freewheel on, just as a safety measure incase the freewheel breaks and won't freewheel (happened once), so that the rear wheel doesn't lock up from the chain going slack.
And yes I know my descriptions are hard to understand lol, ill post some pictures soon
So after those 2 freewheels I welded the cassette directly to a spare wheel (a front wheel with the wrong axle length lol), with NO freewheel. Seems like a simple solution eh? NOT lol, because on decel the dereilleur would get sucked into the rear sprockets and the top of the chain would go slack. So what I've done is added another dereilleur at the top of the chain to act as a chain tensioner, an idler wheel infront of it to make it pull the chain farther for the lower gears. I also have an idler on the bottom length of chain that pushes it way out, so that the chain line doesn't pull the dereilleur up into the sprockets before the chain goes taut. And there's a limiter plate that shields the sprockets from the dereilleur (which was a hard part, it needed to shield the dereilleur in alot of different positions (the different sprockets' radius' affect the dereilleur angle), without interfering with anything. There u go, 3 months of daily trial and error in a paragraph. But it still doesn't work properly, I usually spend days to weeks working on it, take it out on a ride and it breaks before I'm out of my driveway, then I spend days fixing it again. Repeat.
I've had it working well a few times tho, but they don't usually last. When I make it off the driveway, it usually fails at high speeds, and by failing I mean the wheel locking up lol. I only have 30kms in total on this bike. So I think I'm going to install one of the more robust freewheels mentioned earlier in this thread and either weld it onto the wheel or a pulley on my jackshaft, but keep all my other stuff I built for when I didn't have a freewheel on, just as a safety measure incase the freewheel breaks and won't freewheel (happened once), so that the rear wheel doesn't lock up from the chain going slack.
And yes I know my descriptions are hard to understand lol, ill post some pictures soon
Fabian
Well-Known Member
I have finally replaced my rear wheel and free-hub assembly because the free-hub finally mashed the ball bearings.
Considering the (Quando) free-hub, spokes and wheel rim has lasted for 50,000 kilometers (30,000 miles) i am not not complaining about it's life span, which is made all the more impressive with the heavy weight and extreme torque (in low range) that i place on the free-hub pawl and bearing assembly.
Considering the (Quando) free-hub, spokes and wheel rim has lasted for 50,000 kilometers (30,000 miles) i am not not complaining about it's life span, which is made all the more impressive with the heavy weight and extreme torque (in low range) that i place on the free-hub pawl and bearing assembly.
keatonx
Member
Sounds like one of my broken freewheels, where the balls cracked right in half!
Now I have other problems lol, for example I'm on my 6th dereilleur in 30kms :-/
Now I have other problems lol, for example I'm on my 6th dereilleur in 30kms :-/
G
Guest-101012
Guest
Ok my question is since almost all back wheel hubs have a freewheel why not use a hub from a back wheel off a scraped bike as the jackshaft. And if it's one that has multiple gearing on it then that keeps us from having to buy more sprockets.and help deliver the power from the motor to the pedal chainring, I'm just wondering if it's been done or is it possible to he done safely.Mysterious Hd Freewheel For Front Crank
The toughest part here seems to be the CRANK freewheel.
The pedals must turn the rear wheel & motor.
The motor must turn the rear wheel with the same chain as the pedals.
Thus the rear gear set is still shiftable for both the pedal drive and the motor drive.
The white freewheel that SBP sells is the easiest option.
Very Superior But it is still just a Bicycle Freewheel designed for a bicycle.
SPECS:
ENO freewheel
Thread size
1.37 x 24 tpi
Bearing
1 x 6708 - 16t
1 x 6808 - 17t-22t
Engagement
36 points
http://www.whiteind.com/singlespeedgearing/freewheels.html
Best quality freewheel u can buy assembled.
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The SBP Front UHD and HD FW pawls are stronger than most rear hubs out there.
Sidewinder Jerry
Well-Known Member
Only low end department store bicycles use freewheels on the rear wheel. The better ones use a cassette hub. Freewheel axles are prone to bending.
If you're wanting more drive ratios I suggest getting a Staton Inc shift kit and using it with a 10 speed 34-11 cassette. I suggest the following chainrings 28, 36, 44. It would be shifted like this lowest to highest ratios 1(1-4), 2(4-7), 3(7-10) for 12 non redundant ratios. Hill climbing 1(1-4), level ground cruising 2(4-7), level ground/down hill top end speed 3(7-10)
This system also eliminates cross chainring; which will take stress off your bicycle chain.
For stops going up hill be in 1(1) before stopping and use that as a starting gear; all other stops use 2(4)as a starting gear.
My SI shift used the White Industries trails freewheels and the shift kit uses 2 freewheels. This means 2 strokes will need a pull start.
CrazyDan
Well-Known Member
Where did the UHD freewheel go on the storefront? Out of stock or discontinued?
Chainlube
Well-Known Member
Select UHD below. http://sickbikeparts.com/2-stroke-hd-or-uhd-shifter-kit/
