Difficult 4-Stroke Build - Bad Chain Clearance!

It's a constant torque thing that'll cause the issue not a single impact thing. The competitive down hillers change out their tires for each run. They already expect to have to have the wheel rebuilt after a run.
That makes sense. I am hoping to only cruise at low speeds with this thing, do you think that changes the risk?
 
You may want to consider using 2 idelier sprockets instead of roller tensioners for the top side and bottom side of the chain. Then you could remove the roller tensioner in the middle. With your current setup the tensioners are going to quickly wear out.


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I used a quick release on the front wheel of the LandRider build for 10 years with no problem. However I strongly suggest replacing the rear QR with a solid cro-molly axle.
I was just brainstorming this earlier today, that's a helpful suggestion and I appreciate it.
 
Interesting way to create room, sometimes you have to do what you have to do. As has been mentioned above, you are putting a lot of tension on the loaded side of the chain.

On the quick release, not good, but sure helps while doing mock up. I need to change mine at some point.

Stacking sprockets, I think it's a brilliant low budget way to create off set. I only say that because that is what I have done.
I used the backing plates from the rag joint in the kit to space the two apart.. The last one I used two sets the first try one set wasn't enough, I'll post a few pictures once I get further along.
Considering a few 6mm bolts hold the first sprocket to the aluminium hub, 1/4 in bolts to hold the two is more than enough
 
Interesting way to create room, sometimes you have to do what you have to do. As has been mentioned above, you are putting a lot of tension on the loaded side of the chain.

On the quick release, not good, but sure helps while doing mock up. I need to change mine at some point.

Stacking sprockets, I think it's a brilliant low budget way to create off set. I only say that because that is what I have done.
I used the backing plates from the rag joint in the kit to space the two apart.. The last one I used two sets the first try one set wasn't enough, I'll post a few pictures once I get further along.
Considering a few 6mm bolts hold the first sprocket to the aluminium hub, 1/4 in bolts to hold the two is more than enough
I have made a couple adjustments to make the tensioner not as necessary, and I have a trick or two up my sleeve yet. One thing I'm waiting on parts to do is to change out the upper rubber tensioner wheel to an idler sprocket, and that will handle the wear better. I am okay with the small loss of power, I otherwise wouldn't have a working bike. After a lot of rides I can tell that the tensioner bracket is going to hold up. I also am quite mellow on putting down the power. I prefer to cruise now at low RPM, unlike a few years ago with my 2-strokes.

I actually changed out the axle already. Chromoly bolt axle now.

I would agree about the number of bolts, but I wanted to prevent the sprocket from getting tweaked and then subsequently misaligned with the "bracket" sprocket. It could be unnecessary, but at least it's strong.

Thanks for the reply :)
 
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